Gritty CRKs

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smitty1505

Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
243
Hey guys, I love CRK knives. Ive had a Cocobolo Mnandi (which I recently lost :sorrow:), small inlayed classic and a large micarta classic, all of which were great knives. However I feel like my CRKs get gritty faster than my other knives. Is that just me or have you guys noticed the same thing? I work in the landscaping field so I tend to be in dirt a lot and understand my knives get dirtier most peoples but I also have a Hinderer XM-18 which seems like it takes longer before it needs to be blown out or rinsed off. Im thinking maybe it has to do with the CRK grease or maybe the phosphor bronze washers having such tight tolerances vs. the Hinderers teflon washers. This is not a knocking CRK I plan on ordering a new small micarta insingo soon just curious to see what you guys thought.

P.S. how do you guys quickly clean your Sebs without getting rid of the grease or breaking them down? Thanks!
 
Per CRK, wash it out with soapy water. You can use a toothbrush as well.
 
In my experiences, that gritty feeling is definitely caused by debris on the detent ball and (maybe) on the polished track on the blade. It's probably just that the grease attracts dirt easier, and since I've switched to Nano-oil (which has the consistency of most light oils) that gritty feeling happens a lot less.
 
I have a theory. There is one "flaw" to CRK folders as I see it. The fact that the tang area of the knife does nos not cover the whole area of the big washer(the washer on non lock side) and that the gap just above the locking face on the ti slab enables grit/dust/sand to enter the area between slabs/tang/washer(here the washer is clearly visible).

If the washers would be completely covered, both by blade tang and slabs, I believe grit would have a much harder time finding it's way in between these moving parts.

After studying this knife pretty hard, this is the only thing I would have changed on these knives. I would also like them to have torx head screws instead of hex. The torx is just so much better designed in terms of wearing out and stripping.
 
353 said:
I have a theory. There is one "flaw" to CRK folders as I see it. The fact that the tang area of the knife does nos not cover the whole area of the big washer(the washer on non lock side) and that the gap just above the locking face on the ti slab enables grit/dust/sand to enter the area between slabs/tang/washer(here the washer is clearly visible).

If the washers would be completely covered, both by blade tang and slabs, I believe grit would have a much harder time finding it's way in between these moving parts.

After studying this knife pretty hard, this is the only thing I would have changed on these knives. I would also like them to have torx head screws instead of hex. The torx is just so much better designed in terms of wearing out and stripping.
Click to expand...

Huge +1 on the torx
 
I think the above posts answer your questions well! I have noticed the gritty feeling coming sooner also, but I just clean out mine with a fingernail brush and move on.
+2 on the torx!!
 
If we are talking about an environment with lots of sand try not to use any lubricant.
If you go to the desert (dunes), the motorcycle chain never greasy. That attracts the sand.
 
Llasi said:
If we are talking about an environment with lots of sand try not to use any lubricant.
If you go to the desert (dunes), the motorcycle chain never greasy. That attracts the sand.
Click to expand...

I would think that you would want to at least use graphite or a dry wax lubricant...
 
If I was working in dusty places or areas where my folder would take to much dirt/grit I believe I would use a fixed blade with no moving parts.
 
Thanks for the info guy! I think I might try running my seb dry for a while and see if that helps. Also 353 I hear what your saying and would carry a fixed blade but I work at a high end tennis club, you know the type where the member can and do complain about every little thing, so fixed blades are not an option for me.
 
I have to disagree on the torx. The hex screws can be removed with a wrench that exists in both SAE and metric sets. Therefore virtually every tool box in the world has awrench that will fit the screws.

lemmuhj said:
Huge +1 on the torx
Click to expand...
 
I've run my Seb dry for quite a while in the past.
If yours is broken in, I see no problem doing that.
You may want to blow it out at the end of the day.

+ on the TORX.
 
-1 on the Torx

You can induce more leverage into the torx and overtighten.
I have yet to have a functional problem with hex other than needing to replace it when it strips a little and this is somewhat rare.
The current screws are already custom made..I can't imagine what the torx would cost to have to be to replace hex and keep the same level of support. (I don't remember having to pay much if anything for replacement screws from CRK)
 
This is funny I noticed my 25 was getting stiffer to open and close so I used really hot water and a toothbrush and dish soap to wash it and added a few drops of CLP BREAK FREE and now it's butter smooth again. I did my 21 also. Good as new and didn't have to break them down.
 
Usually when any of my knives get gritty I use the age old method of washing detergent and warm water.

Been good for all my slipjoints, CRK and IKBS folders for many moons and I have not taken my CRK apart in over 2 years.

[video=youtube;c_ha2jwSfQE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_ha2jwSfQE[/video]
 
Another -1 on Torx: if the fastener or tool is a little off, it's very easy to completely strip out the head.
 
pvicenzi said:
I have to disagree on the torx. The hex screws can be removed with a wrench that exists in both SAE and metric sets. Therefore virtually every tool box in the world has awrench that will fit the screws.
Click to expand...

bhyde said:
-1 on the Torx
You can induce more leverage into the torx and overtighten.
I have yet to have a functional problem with hex other than needing to replace it when it strips a little and this is somewhat rare.
The current screws are already custom made..I can't imagine what the torx would cost to have to be to replace hex and keep the same level of support. (I don't remember having to pay much if anything for replacement screws from CRK)
Click to expand...

JNewell said:
Another -1 on Torx: if the fastener or tool is a little off, it's very easy to completely strip out the head.
Click to expand...

All valid points there, no problem.

But I have the right tools and I would not overtighten the screws any more than with the hex ones. The fact that they might strip out(and occasionally do), and that my own hex fastener fits the screw a tiny bit better than the oem fastener but still does not feel like it fits perfect, and knowing how much better fit there is in the torx system I would change them in a heartbeat given the chance.
 
pvicenzi said:
I have to disagree on the torx. The hex screws can be removed with a wrench that exists in both SAE and metric sets. Therefore virtually every tool box in the world has awrench that will fit the screws.
Click to expand...

You can use an Allen wrench, in a Torx.;)
Torx head allows for more torque(when using a Torx driver)with out damage to the fastener.

LG
 
marthinus said:
Usually when any of my knives get gritty I use the age old method of washing detergent and warm water.

Been good for all my slipjoints, CRK and IKBS folders for many moons and I have not taken my CRK apart in over 2 years.

[video=youtube;c_ha2jwSfQE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_ha2jwSfQE[/video]
Click to expand...

How do you relube after? Or do you even? Referring to the sebenza.
 
bhyde said:
-1 on the Torx

You can induce more leverage into the torx and overtighten.
I have yet to have a functional problem with hex other than needing to replace it when it strips a little and this is somewhat rare.
The current screws are already custom made..I can't imagine what the torx would cost to have to be to replace hex and keep the same level of support. (I don't remember having to pay much if anything for replacement screws from CRK)
Click to expand...

I do wonder why he doesn't supply torque values. :)


I don't care if torx or hex, all the same for me. What I don't understand is that they use those round, huge 80s style screw heads. Pocket for flat hex or counter sunk for those torx would look much cleaner.

Is it a strength issue?
 
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