Grizzly 10" contact wheel report (adopted for 1/2 shaft)

R

rashid11

Joined
Dec 8, 2005
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under $70. For some reason I ordered it only recently. It came in today and as usual no time was wasted as I bore it for 2 1/2 ID BBs, made a shaft for my grinder and tested it.

Bottom line: it is a steal ! Comes balanced (I checked it too), is fairly true. The rubber's hardness is just right.

As the OD is too big to fit into me 9x20, I bore it on my X3 mill.

A bonus tip for lazy machinists:

To indicate a hole of a common and accurate size, simply mount matching round into the mill's spindle, lower it and locate the hole. Clamp the spindle and clamp the work piece to the table - with the round still in the spindle, "pinning" the piece. Lock X & Y. Bore away.

Don't use this method when doing contract work for NASA, but it will do just fine to bore a contact wheel.
 
I also ordered one for the Burr King. Will be here on Monday. Thanks for the lazy machinists tip.
 
i have the grizzly 10 in wheel also, after you get it bored and add bearings its
as good as any wheel i've used and very cost efficent, not to change the subject much but your disk grinder attachement for your grinder was awesome, you need to add a reversing switch, i have the switch on mine now, only need to build the disk attachment bb
 
I tried unsuccessfully to locate the wheel on Grizzly's website. How about a part number?

Jim Arbuckle
 
G9242 10" Aluminum /Rubber Wheel For G1015

I have 2 of them One is mounted and works well. I got a spare with a tiny nick for $5 at their tent sale.
 
i do have a reverse switch - it comes 'for free' with the vfd, one only needs an SPST switch and a rubber boot.

with 3 phase motor you can also change the rotation by swapping any 2 leads -but that requires a different and more expensive switch ;)


cadillac forge said:
i have the grizzly 10 in wheel also, after you get it bored and add bearings its
as good as any wheel i've used and very cost efficent, not to change the subject much but your disk grinder attachement for your grinder was awesome, you need to add a reversing switch, i have the switch on mine now, only need to build the disk attachment bb
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the info. I have been wondering about putting bearings in a Grizzly wheel since I first started building my NWG.
 
Rasheed
I thought your set-up ,the video, was 3/4" shaft? The 1/2" works OK then.
I really appreciate your many contributions :thumbup:
 
I turned my center out with my lathe for a the same bearing as the KMG stock wheels. I think they are R82S bearings. A tip from KMG is to put a spacer tube in the center of the wheel between the 2 bearings to hold the center races apart. If I remember right the bearing are 1.125 od and .625 deep. I can hit some with a caliper if you want. Jim
 
Yep, the tool arm shaft is .750, the "bearing" portion is 1/2 .

The 1/2 ID bearings are very common and dirt cheap. Do
buy protected ones - plastic or metal shield against contaminants.

To make the shafts in easiest way I have some leadloy in .750
OD which I just turn down to 1/2, drill and tap the end for 1/4-20.

And lastly, don't over-tighten (load up) the races.





Tommegow said:
Rasheed
I thought your set-up ,the video, was 3/4" shaft? The 1/2" works OK then.
I really appreciate your many contributions :thumbup:
Click to expand...
 
Well I just missed that. I thought the tool arm was 1.5" and the shaft was
3/4". I made all my clones wheels with 1/2" bearings from Fastenal.
I hope to have a wheel ready by the fall
Many Thanks
 
The tooling _arm_ is 1.5 x 1.5 square. The "clamping" hole at the end of the arm accepts 3/4 _shafts_ - hope this clarifies it.
 
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