Grohman Canadian belt knife in stainless

cut it out

cut it out

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Apr 11, 2010
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So I have had this knife for along time. I dressed out 2 deer with it and then it needed sharpened but I could just never get it sharp so put it in a drawer for 4-5 years but always been a fan of that knife. So today I put it on my lansky figuring a guided type sharpener would be the only way I could do it. I normally due free hand and don’t have issues with all my other knives but not this one. I noticed the stones would gum up very quickly. Would look like a clay slurry. Very sticky and thick compared to other knives. Also noticed the factory angle was very steep. I lowered it to 20 degrees and really had to take a lot off to get that edge angle. anyone have thoughts on what there stainless is and do you have any input on how it holds up and sharpens in field compared to there carbon steel. Thanks.
 
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I think it's called 4110 or something like that , I have little interest in specific breeds of steels or anything but someone told me what it was once.
I've never had this issue with my mini Russell lockback , I've never had any kind of premium type steel or anything so maybe my experience is because of this ?
 
4116? I was just googling it. I've got some knives in 4116 and I think it's good stuff.
 
Yeah. No complaints here. I also don’t care to much about steel types either. Just never had that sharpening experience. Was very different than any other knife I have. I forgot to add that it came out super sharp. Very pleased with it so far. I don’t use many stainless knives so maybe I’m just not use to the characteristics of SS. I wanna take a few traditional knives to bear camp later this month and wanted to bring this one also. It’s a great knife.
 
Some stainless steels, particularly the "softer" ones can be gummy. They can also have very stubborn burrs. With steels that exhibit these properties, diamonds are generally not your friend.

A really course SiC stone is best for setting the bevel and then something finer (your choice) for finishing and deburring. Deburring being the key point. Angle is always critical but especially true on these steels to ensure good apexing and full deburring.
 
I'd noticed years ago, Lansky's hones can be prone to clogging pretty fast. They're small, so one needs to take extra care to keep them adequately lubricated in use, to keep them cutting efficiently. Softish low-alloy stainless steel will clog them faster than anything else. So, between the small hone and the 'gummy' steel, it's sort of a double threat for clogging issues.

I've found that mineral oil works far better than anything, in keeping swarf from sticking to and clogging hones like these. I tried water with my Lansky sets (I had two, one of them in diamond). I found the water will drain off and/or evaporate too fast, so it was difficult to keep the hones wetted long enough to keep them from clogging up. That's where the mineral oil really helps, as it'll stay on the hone.
 
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All good info. Thanks everyone. It came out super sharp so no complaints. Just now hope it holds a edge good through the process of butchering. If I’m lucky enough to take a bear. If not will try for a Doe the week after bear season. I’m gonna try to pack out the deer this year. Been really thinking about that hard as dragging one out in the mountains is just to hard anymore.
 
I've got a coupla Grohmanns, had my #2 More years than I can remember. Stainless, have yet to own one in carbon. No problem getting mine to pop hair. How fine do you go with stone. I seem to get best results now with stainless by going no finer than a brown India stone. Leave it a bit toothy. Then just a few strops and then a few cutting strokes on my wood cutting board, to remove the burr. It's toothy yet it pops hair, and holds that edge longer.
 
Wolfe I went through every stone in the kit. So went pretty fine. I wonder if I should have went with 25degrees instead of 20. How does it hold up and what angle do you use on your ss grohmann knives.
 
I tried a higher angle once and went back to factory because after batoning through squirrel legs to remove the feet, there were a couple of tiny chips in the blade. Ive since bought game shears also. Ive always sharpened free hand. Ive used India stones, soft Arkansas, hard Arkansas. Like you I had a tough time getting it sharp. No problem now and I stop with the brown side of a Norton India. I also changed the way I stroke the blade on the stone. It's an eliptical blade, hard to explain but I use a short eliptical stroke on the stone. Rather than long sweeps from end to end. Permanent marker on the edge to see what happening as I sharpen.
 
Thanks for info. Hopefully I can put a update to the edge and how it held up after bear camp at end of month.
 
Oh, and just came to mind, my Grohmanns seem to respond well to a kitchen sharpening steel if they need just a touch up. Have you tried that, too, or no?
 
cut it out cut it out I know you didn't ask me and I hope you don't mind my jumping in but what stones do you have for free hand sharpening? What's the coarsest you have?

Please understand I'min no way trying to be a jerk but in that second picture with the Canada stamp showing, the bevel looks uneven almost convex in spots. It may just be the light though.

If it were me, I would not increase the angle. In fact if it were me, I'd probably looking to lower it but that aside, I agree with W WolfyW about sticking with the factory grind. It's just less work and less to have to consider right now as at this point in time, the goal is just finding a good way to get it sharp. I also agree with using a marker on the bevel. Excellent visual aid!

I don't have that exact knife but I have knives that span a broad spectrum of shapes and design and I more or less use the same back-and-forth technique on everything. Some might need extra curling or lifting at the tip or what have you but the basic pull/push method is what I do.

I'd take it the coarsest stone I have (which is now a Baryonyx Manticore that I'm in love with) and grind the bevel with the factory angle as the guide. There's always some variation but that'll get you there. I'd fully apex one side (some folks don't on really course stones) and then fully apex the other and then I'd do very light edge leading (my personal preference) stokes to deburr. Then I'd probably put it on a Norton India Fine or soft Arkansas and repeat. Followed by a couple very light edge trailing swipes on bare leather. That should get me (you) a good edge.

Some folks make the case that fully apexing on course stones can weaken the edge and reduce longevity. I'm not disputing if that is true or not, but I'm a burr-forming sharpener so feeling that burr is my feedback so I just go all the way.

Now, Obsessed with Edges Obsessed with Edges can jump in and tell us if I've mislead you! :D

It's a cool knife though and one I've thought about getting my SIL many times. He's an avid hunter.
 
Looking back at my post, I got my lower/higher mixed up. Pretty tired after alot of overtime on night shift. Was trying to say the blade chipped when it was the weakest.
 
I have 120/240 for my lowest stones. But I used a extra coarse diamond to take it down to 20 degrees. Kinda wish I kept the factory angle now. As soft as it is I can see why they have it that steep. Oh well. Live and learn I guess. Nothing else will make a great kitchen knife now. Lol
 
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