Gutting knife for whitetail

Buck 118 has done the chore for me a number of times. Stainless steel, fixed blade, small enough to work inside without worrying about my other hand and about puncturing where I don’t want to. Handle same size as the Buck 105 and Buck 121 - in other words big enough to maintain a grip when it gets greasy and wet in the cavity. Easy to keep a good edge on Buck’s stainless too. Price won’t break the bank either. OH
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In my experience, scandi grinds are horrible for game. The edge wants to grab, instead of glide between materials, sections of muscle, etc. My biggest surprise was a few years ago, when I forgot my kit with fixed blade and small saw. All I had to use was a cheap (<$10) Rough Ryder slip joint with clip point and moose pattern blades. I used the moose pattern blade and was blown away with its performance. The knife was a copy of the folder Nessmuk carried, so I guess it shouldn't have been a surprise.

For cleaning game, I prefer a relatively blunt point and plenty of belly. As long as it has enough point to puncture skin, that's all I need. Unless you're processing a lot of animals or its a really big animal, something like that cheap folder can work a s well as the most expensive custom. As A Alberta Ed suggested, I'll probably try my Grohmann #1 next. It was designed decades ago for hunters in Canada. Granny was a Grohmann and came from the same part of Czechoslovakia as old Rudolph, so I'm sure were family, as well!
 
In my experience, scandi grinds are horrible for game. The edge wants to grab, instead of glide between materials, sections of muscle, etc. My biggest surprise was a few years ago, when I forgot my kit with fixed blade and small saw. All I had to use was a cheap (<$10) Rough Ryder slip joint with clip point and moose pattern blades. I used the moose pattern blade and was blown away with its performance. The knife was a copy of the folder Nessmuk carried, so I guess it shouldn't have been a surprise.

For cleaning game, I prefer a relatively blunt point and plenty of belly. As long as it has enough point to puncture skin, that's all I need. Unless you're processing a lot of animals or its a really big animal, something like that cheap folder can work a s well as the most expensive custom. As A Alberta Ed suggested, I'll probably try my Grohmann #1 next. It was designed decades ago for hunters in Canada. Granny was a Grohmann and came from the same part of Czechoslovakia as old Rudolph, so I'm sure were family, as well!

You must have used one of the knives Cody Ludin recommended
 
You must have used one of the knives Cody Ludin recommended
I've never heard him recommend a knife, just watched him carry the little Mora. I wanted to try the Moose pattern blade because Nessmuk carried one and, when I saw one for less than a ten spot, I figured I didn't have anything to lose. I definitely did not expect it to work so well, especially at that price point. RR did a fine job on that knife, though! I'm sure it would need frequent touch up if used regularly, but that thing was like an extension of my finger dressing that deer!

Using a Mora cleaning a deer sucked for me. The scandi works so well carving wood because of that bite, but it doesn't have the same finesse in flesh, to the contrary. I bought one of the Cold Steel Pendleton Lite Hunter, but haven't used it yet. It feels like it will be a great game knife. If I was buying a hunting knife for someone as a gift, I may very well get the AUS10 version of the Pendleton.
 

That's a perfect idea.
 
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