Guys, how does that D2 steel perform?

[bodog]

I just test test mine own heat treat D2 at 62HRC blade a week ago,

4" blade
8" overall
0.13" thickness
Full flat grind with 0.013" thickness behind edge.

At this point it won't shave hair but still can slice print paper.

Now let baton it through galvanized iron with hammer.

[video=youtube;MsLDdgCOz7Y]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsLDdgCOz7Y&feature=youtu.be[/video]

Let do even more.

Plenty of microchip but still in good shape.

Impressive, sir

 

[Gossman Knives]

D2 is a great steel for knives. I used it for years for knives but stopped when I downsized the different steels I work with. I use D2 now for sharpeners. I make a flat sharpener similar to the Schrade Honesteel. I'm able sharpen many different steels from 1095 to Elmax even D2 knives. Works great on CPM steels too.
Scott

 

[K.O.D.]

I've had D2 from a number of companies (Benchmade, LionSteel, DPx, Brous) and I am very happy with it. Relatively easy to sharpen. A razor edge is not that important to me.

 

[NJBillK]

Linked thread edited for brevity.

When testing 440C and VG10 by this method, I found that I saw enough damage to rank the alloys after ~20 cuts.

Ok, so in short, the horizontal lines are 10 cuts per. Which works, but only if there is a standard at which the cut count is based off of (such as Ankerson using a predetermined force applied to effectually cut the medium). Just stating that you saw "enough damage" doesn't give me any frame of reference.
Was "enough damage" one small roll that was under 1/16" in length, or the whole 2" cutting section showed a continuous roll, but maintained a "working edge" due to carbide, which would account for the drop in ZDP on the scale.

On top of that, regarding your test, do you think it is skewed in the favor of the hardest steel? One would think that a Rockstead in ZDP @ hrc66+ would have outperformed the m4 in terms of visable damage since there wasn't much of a chance at impact damage, just edge wear.
-----------
OP: my apologies for the derail.

What line of work are you going to be using the knife in?

 

[Cackmandu]

No problems Bill. thanks for the info. on the handles, exactly what I was looking for! So the Izula II handles will work without any alterations?

As for usage, very very light usage compared to what I'm seeing in this thread, ha! Mainly carrying for casual work chores and and on the trail!

Thanks for your input!

 

[NJBillK]

They should work just fine. If they do need some modification, it wouldn't be much and work be achievable with just a flat surface, some sand paper and your hands...

You can sand the micarta to fit your hand better or add some texturing by sanding the outer surface with 40-80 grit, depending on the texture you are aiming for.
Once sanded and "softened" a bit micarta will stay grippy when wet/cold which is a major bonus for woods/trail work.

Just make sure to bring along a sharpening item, for my BK24, I prefer a dmt diafold in coarse/fine to be perfect.

 

[matus]

D2 in kitchen knives (better know under the name SLD and complementary the A2 know as SKD - both from Hitachi) performs really amazingly well. It is nearly stainless (12% of Cr) and takes and holds very good edge. The large size of carbides allow for edge with a lot of bite what works great for cutting food. I have an D2 (SLD) and A2 (SKD) knife from Yoshikane and both are truly incredible. One does need to be careful when it comes to chipping, but that comes as no surprise at HRC or around 63 - 64.

 

[Czechmate]

It works well,
When I got into knife making the saying about D2 that was meant in jest but holds a lot of truth is D2 take a lousy edge, and holds it!

Meaning that the edge is not really refined,It has Large carbide clumps but the edge lasts a heck of a long time. The finish can have orange peel look as well.

This explains how I feel about D2 as well LOL.

 

[Sunyata]

This explains how I feel about D2 as well LOL.

Use diamonds. You can cut the carbides down into a nice edge

 

[Ken44]

It's still one of my favorite steels, and most of my customs have D2.
I have no production knives with D2 to go by. Had a Military in CPM-D2, but never used it.

I like a slightly toothy edge for most things, and D2 works well and holds this type of edge for a good while.

 

[19-3ben]

No problems Bill. thanks for the info. on the handles, exactly what I was looking for! So the Izula II handles will work without any alterations?

They should work just fine. If they do need some modification, it wouldn't be much and work be achievable with just a flat surface, some sand paper and your hands...

Whoa whoa. Hold on a minute here. The BK14/24 handle is based on the Izula handle, which is 1/2" shorter than the Izula 2. The hole placement at the end of the handle is potentially an issue for fitting Izula 2 scales on a BK14. Also, the Becker has internal grip dimensions slightly different than the Izula the metal is vertically a little thicker. So Izula scales will fit, but will need to be trimmed on the inside to fit. Not sure if Izula 2 scales can fit.

Theknifeconnection.com sells G10 scales that will fit nicely.

 

[NJBillK]

Wow, thanks for the correction! I know I have seen Izula 1 scales used. If the ones that I have seen that resembled the Izula II scales weren't those Exact ones, then they were customs made with a similarly made micarta and it is news to me...

Thank you again, I know I have seen the Izula 1s used.
Edit: thread with Izula 1 scales used.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1323623-BK16-For-The-Wife?highlight=Izula+one+two

 

[JR88FAN]

It's still one of my favorite steels, and most of my customs have D2.
I have no production knives with D2 to go by. Had a Military in CPM-D2, but never used it.

I like a slightly toothy edge for most things, and D2 works well and holds this type of edge for a good while.

That's kinda how I like my edges....

So by toothy, you would classify that as holding a solid working edge, and really holding that edge through a lot of abrasive work?

Sorry about the "terminology" thing, but it was a real issue in a recent thread...

 

[Ken44]

That's kinda how I like my edges....

So by toothy, you would classify that as holding a solid working edge, and really holding that edge through a lot of abrasive work?

Sorry about the "terminology" thing, but it was a real issue in a recent thread...

I would say a slightly toothy edge cuts better, and holds up longer on the media I've mostly cut. Was a butcher by trade, and owned a seasonal game processing business for many years too. Always hunted and fished a lot. I've never had a job where I had to cut a lot of super abrasive material, but I think the same edge would work well for that too.

I do have a few highly polished edges as I enjoy playing around with slicing paper and such, as I'm sure many of us do. I really don't cut enough these days for it to matter much, but I still usually stick with a slightly toothy edge.

 

[MyNameIsBo]

Me likey.

Got the BK24 instead of the BK14 cuz it had D2.

Edge retention has been excellent. Really seems to respond to stropping quite well.

D2 is a 'semi-stainless' so periodic oiling would be good. Just get into the habit of oiling everything and no worries.

I did the same thing and can attest to everything this man says

 

[knarfeng]

Linked thread edited for brevity.


Ok, so in short, the horizontal lines are 10 cuts per. Which works, but only if there is a standard at which the cut count is based off of (such as Ankerson using a predetermined force applied to effectually cut the medium). Just stating that you saw "enough damage" doesn't give me any frame of reference.
Was "enough damage" one small roll that was under 1/16" in length, or the whole 2" cutting section showed a continuous roll, but maintained a "working edge" due to carbide, which would account for the drop in ZDP on the scale.

On top of that, regarding your test, do you think it is skewed in the favor of the hardest steel? One would think that a Rockstead in ZDP @ hrc66+ would have outperformed the m4 in terms of visable damage since there wasn't much of a chance at impact damage, just edge wear.
-----------

Answered your question in the other thread.

And I also apologize to the OP.

 

[BonhamBlades]

I second what Laurence said, but cpm D2 is some amazing stuff.

 

[neal70]

bob dozier's heat treat on d2 is so good it's proprietary. his d2 is probably,imho, incomprable to any one else's.(not looking for a disagreement-just my personal opinion) they call him the doctor of d2 for good reason. he's been using it for decades and seems to be one of the more/most respected makers out there. i love my arkansas toothpick and would never part with it.

 

[marcinek]

In general. TIA

The answer, definitively, is "It depends."

Heat treat, geometry, application, how much you like to sharpen, etc etc etc are all subjective quantities for any steel that affect its "performance."

As mentioned, Dozier uses it, and he knows a boatload more about knives than you do. And two boatloads more than I do.

It does have that funny orange peel thing going on. Dont know if that affects performance for anybody.

 

[bodog]

bob dozier's heat treat on d2 is so good it's proprietary. his d2 is probably,imho, incomprable to any one else's.(not looking for a disagreement-just my personal opinion) they call him the doctor of d2 for good reason. he's been using it for decades and seems to be one of the more/most respected makers out there. i love my arkansas toothpick and would never part with it.

Out of pure curiosity, is there anything reliable to base that on? I know that it's generally considered to be true, but is there any source of actual reliable data that says the way he hardens D2 is any better than someone else? I'm not saying it's untrue, but I haven't seen anything at all that backs that thought up aside from people simply saying he's the best and nothing more.