Gyuto design. Feedback appreciated

JG Custom Metal Works

JG Custom Metal Works

Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
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Starting my first gyuto and would appreciate some feedback. I have some .09in and .110in AEB-L, which thickness would be better? I was thinking the .110...

Anyway, here's some pics:







 
Agreed..... .110" AEBL would be awesome for this project. The only thing that doesn't look right to me is the transition at handle/blade conjunction. I would let the curve come down to the edge. In other words, draw a line from the heel of the blade to the other point on the handle nearby, completing that right triangle.
 
It looks good to me other than between the heel and the handle. I think making it one radius would look better and probably feel better. As far as thickness, the thinner would cut better. I made a few out of .125 and they work well but i will use thinner steel next time.
 
There you go. In my opinion, the top one is too straight down, while the bottom one has too much of an angle. Somewhere between the two would look really good.
 
I've been working on a 2" wide gyuto in .09" stock and I don't think I'd want it any thicker. The more acute the grind the less wedging in carrots, etc.
 
Here is one I did a little while ago. I like an even radius. Other than that it looks a lot like yours.
 
I've made two gyutos so far and the advice you have received is good. I've used 0.125" (actually 0.140" 1084 from Aldo) and it's fine, but you end up removing a lot to get it down to a reasonable thickness on the blade. Thin is king for slicing and dicing. You want a good distal taper and the spine gets quite thin in the last 3 inches or so. A flat grind down to the edge from there and you have most of your shaping done. I was surprised when I did the math on setting up the filing jig to see just how shallow the angle was. What this kind of geometry does is reduce wedging and binding when you slice. As to steel choice, there are a number that will work well depending mostly on what you want. For myself, ability to take and hold a keen edge are my primary goals and a steel I can do everything myself is important, so 10xx is what I'm using. I'll probably make some in a good stainless eventually, but that will require sending out for heat treat.
 
Thanks a bunch for the input everyone, I really appreciate it. I'm gonna grind out the profile here in a few and I'll try and post pics.
 
A really good and professional tip is to get some letter/number stamps from HF and stamp the tang with the steel type immediately after cutting out the profile. It may seem silly, but markers rub and sand off, and what is clearly a AEB-L in your memory today may be ???? when it comes back from HT. If you work with more than one steel type, it is almost a requirement.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
A really good and professional tip is to get some letter/number stamps from HF and stamp the tang with the steel type immediately after cutting out the profile. It may seem silly, but markers rub and sand off, and what is clearly a AEB-L in your memory today may be ???? when it comes back from HT. If you work with more than one steel type, it is almost a requirement.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the tip. I actually already have a HF stamp set too.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
A really good and professional tip is to get some letter/number stamps from HF and stamp the tang with the steel type immediately after cutting out the profile. It may seem silly, but markers rub and sand off, and what is clearly a AEB-L in your memory today may be ???? when it comes back from HT. If you work with more than one steel type, it is almost a requirement.
Click to expand...

Excellent idea and on my list, I recently had this happen to me, luckily through process of elimination, and a couple pics on my phone I figured out which steel was to which knife.
 
>jg, your knife design looks pretty good btw. I recently ordered some 52100 and hope to be starting some kitchen stuff myself.
 
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