H1 steel

I just recently purchased a spyderco ladybug in h1steel and so far I am happy with the steel excelent corrosion resistance, but what im wondering about is the edge retention. Any general stories about your experiences with the steel would be appreciated. Thanks!

In normal environment it is on 35 place behind 420HC. However in the sea, corrosion process affect edge retention, because rust eats edge first and if you compare H1 vs any other steel when working on the boat in sea - it will outperforms any other.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
With a nitrogen content of 0.1%, I don't think it's accurate to say that nitrogen "replaces" carbon in the matrix, because there is more carbon. As for corrosion resistance, I suspect it works the same as any other steel. The free chromium forms an oxide layer that shields the steel below it from corrosion. The thing is, steels like S30V has 14% chromium with a big 1.45% carbon, tying up the chromium in carbides. Whereas H1 has 14-16% chromium, with most of it being free in the matrix. So it isn't true that it is immune to corrosion, simply that corrosion resistance is so ridiculously high that it would only rust if you intentionally do so with harsh chemicals.

I'm a big fan of carbides and the wear resistance they impart. You don't get those with Nitrogen addition. I don't see Nitrogen containing alloys as the wave of the future.

But H1 definitely has a niche and I'm glad Sal Glessar brought it to market as a knife steel. [/B]
Nitrides also provide wear resistance(see Vanax series), but they don't form as readily as carbides. Plus nitrogen steels are more expensive to make, so it becomes a question of whether or not nitride steels are cost effective. To me, the real question is whether nitride steels give any notable improvement in terms of performance for a knife steel. And I guess I'll find out when the Kershaw Tilt comes out:thumbup:.
 
...Nitrides also provide wear resistance(see Vanax series), but they don't form as readily as carbides. Plus nitrogen steels are more expensive to make, so it becomes a question of whether or not nitride steels are cost effective. To me, the real question is whether nitride steels give any notable improvement in terms of performance for a knife steel. And I guess I'll find out when the Kershaw Tilt comes out:thumbup:.
Didn't Thomas say that the Tilt was coming with s35vn blade steel because the originally planned nitrogen steel was massively delayed?
 
Didn't Thomas say that the Tilt was coming with s35vn blade steel because the originally planned nitrogen steel was massively delayed?
No, that was for the ZT 0550. If it happened with the Tilt as well, my head would explode:eek:.
 
From what I've heard, it performs about as well as a rust-proof 8cr13Mov. It's edge retention gets better the more it is sharpened and used, though.
 
From what I've heard, it performs about as well as a rust-proof 8cr13Mov. It's edge retention gets better the more it is sharpened and used, though.

Sorry, but the underlined part is false. It is a miss interpretation of the following:

H1 is a precipitation-hardened alloy. And yes, it is also work-hardened. Meaning that anything that you do that causes heat through friction will harden the steel further; it’s also important to note that tests have shown that it does not become brittle. The work-hardened properties of H1 have been proven by analysis independently performed by Crucible Specialty Metals. It is this that explains why an H1 blade with a SpyderEdge has better edge retention than it's PlainEdge counterpart. In the end, the analysis from Crucible found the Rc at the spine was 58, however at the edge it had increased in both the PlainEdge (to 65 Rc) and the SpyderEdge (to 68 Rc).

The Salt Series knives are being made and promoted to a market where corrosion resistance is important.

So, is H1 possibly just another flavor-of-the-month? Possibly, but hype can only go so far.

Kristi

http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?19120-H1-am-I-missing-something&p=210077#post210077

More can be read here:

http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?58227-Questions-About-H1-Steel

The amount of friction that needs to be caused to change steel structure is...well...a damn lot more then one would generate while sharpening and using.

How does the H1 of the plain-edge Pacific Salt compare with the VG-10 of the plain-edge Endura4?

In what regard? Edge retention goes to VG-10, but can chip. Corrosion resistance goes to H-1 and will roll before chipping.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/945535-Spyderco-H1-steel-vs-VG10

H-1 is simple to sharpen and and it tends to roll more then chip.

Here you can see my 6 year old Salt1 that I reground as well as an Endura. Both are fine steels, but it depends on what you are looking for.

[video=youtube;wrU6LqxZmQE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=wrU6LqxZmQE[/video]
 
I've got three H1 Spydercos, two of them serrated (Spyderhawk and Tasman) and one plain edge (Pacific). I'm happy with all three. I bought them because on some occasions I need better corrosion resistence than what's offered by regular stainless steels.

Edge holding isn't amazing but, as many have already pointed out, you don't turn to H1 looking for above average edge holding. It's tough, I've used my H1 knives hard (within reason, they are still pocket knives) and had zero issues. While I'm not a huge fan of serrated edges, I've got to admit edge holding seems better in serrated H1 blades than is plain edge ones. The blade shapes in mine are so different that it might be an unfair comparison.
 
Am curious if anybody has tested the H1 serrated vs upper tier retention steel also serrated. Couple years ago Sal Glesser said in testing it was the best of any steel when serrated.
 
Thank you all so much for the advice. I'm gonna go ahead and stick with VG-10. Just got my new full flat-ground, gray Endura in the mail today. So excited to start carrying it!
 
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