Hair shaving comparison tb/sar 8

A

acemaster

Joined
Sep 27, 2009
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My new TB combat grade easily shaves off the hairs on my arm but I cannot get my new SAR 8 SE to do the same! Am I crazy to mess with this? What is the likely reason one will and one will not shave? I finally took the SAR 8 to a brand new butcher's steel and then stropped it on my Filson leather belt. Still very few hairs coming off with the SAR 8. Any thoughts?
 
I bet a leather belt on a belt-grinder would work fine. Short of that you'd have to start with a 1000 grit and move on from there.

Plus I think the edge geometry of the SAR series in general is pretty fat. That said, my SAR4LE DOES shave.
 
Was the sar 8 full convex? In my experience convex grinds tend to suck for shaving arm hair, but really shine at push cutting etc... I have knives I can split hair with with and pushcut newspaper with full convex grinds that struggle at actually SHAVING hair.
 
The convex edges I have done will do the newspaper and shave off hair with zero drag. I mean they come of like you would not believe.

I would just get it sharp and not put another thought into it.
 
I figured it might not be sharp but I am surprised as it was brand new and never used. I also thought it might be the different type of edges the TB and SAR have.
I am new to Busse, and sharpening beyond an Arkansas stone and butchers steel. I plan to invest in some sharpening equipment but I don't want to start my practice on the SAR. Maybe I should send it in for a sharpening?
 
acemaster said:
I figured it might not be sharp but I am surprised as it was brand new and never used.
....
I am new to Busse
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Obviously. ;) The lack of sharpness on some blades coming from the factory is sometimes sort of a running gag around here. :eek: I've gotten wildly inconsistent edges from Busse - some could barely slice paper and some were hair popping. Rather than sending them back, I've just gotten lots of practice sharpening blades :D :thumbup:


Honestly, you're gonna have to sharpen them eventually anyways, so you might as well put the exact edge you prefer on it as soon as you open the box, rather than slowly tweaking it over many sharpenings.
 
Anyone have a good link to: Sandpaper + Mousepad + Loaded Strop. I am willing to try it but would like to read it/see it first.
 
MustardMan said:
Obviously. ;) The lack of sharpness on some blades coming from the factory is sometimes sort of a running gag around here. :eek: I've gotten wildly inconsistent edges from Busse - some could barely slice paper and some were hair popping. Rather than sending them back, I've just gotten lots of practice sharpening blades :D :thumbup:
Click to expand...

that's the truth... my ASH would hardly cut warm butter when I originally got it, and the Busse crew would've fixed it had I sent it back, but I went the mousepad and sandpaper route and ultimately I'm happy I did... afterwards it would slice tomatoes, peel apples, shave your hair, pushcut, and chop well.
 
MustardMan said:
Obviously. ;) The lack of sharpness on some blades coming from the factory is sometimes sort of a running gag around here. :eek: I've gotten wildly inconsistent edges from Busse - some could barely slice paper and some were hair popping. Rather than sending them back, I've just gotten lots of practice sharpening blades :D :thumbup:


Honestly, you're gonna have to sharpen them eventually anyways, so you might as well put the exact edge you prefer on it as soon as you open the box, rather than slowly tweaking it over many sharpenings.
Click to expand...

Even with my 2 Tank Busters.... The Camo one would push cut newspaper and the Sage just riped it. Both would slice standard printer paper, but the Camo was noticeably sharper and would shave hair. ;)

I sharpened the Sage on my Edge Pro reprofiling the edge and now it is hair popping sharp and push cuts newspaper like it's not even there. And I only took it to the 600 grit stone and left it there.
 
Might need a little bigger blade.

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