Half tangs?

C

CDH

Joined
Jun 8, 2007
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I think that is the correct name for a tang visible from the top of the knife but which only extends half the depth (top to bottom) of the handle and may or may not run the full length.

Does anyone use scales to build up such a handle? I'm thinking either 3 layers of micarta, 2 as traditional handle scales and a third in the middle under the blade tang 'filling in' the rest of the handle, or 2 layers of thicker material with a rabbet type joint where the tang will fit.

Failing that, is there a reasonable way with minimal power tools (drill press and bits, bench grinder, bandsaw) to notch a block of handle material (probably micarta in this case) for the tang since I don't have access to a mill or router tools? I don't think I'm good enough to do it with a table saw without unnecessarily risking a finger.

Why, you may ask? Well I want more curvature to the handle on a relatively small knife and I don't want to file/grind out wide, expensive ATS34 stock to get it. With 1" stock I can get the blade and a half tang done and still have the handle curve to a nice hand fitting shape. I'm thinking of a small/medium game knife with a Loveless style curved shape but a drop or clipped point blade more like a Knives of Alaska caping knife shape. The curve would require 1.5" stock, but with the half tang 1" stock and a LOT less grinding would work fine.

The reduction of weight in the handle might make for a nice fringe benefit.

What do you guys think? Does it sound like a reasonable combination of features or like something that just won't work out in the end?
 
Most often it is called a partial tang. Sure, you can saw it close then file to fit. I would suggest a Corby type fastener, or rivet, for sideload strength. Minumum of two, but if you got a good tight fit, one might do.
 
You are on the right track. A three piece handle will work nicely.I saw the slot on the table saw, but I have a clamp jig that holds the handle. NEVER try it by holding with the hands!!!!! This technique works well with slicers like sashimi knives and carving knives.
Stacy
 
One follow up question then:

I had planned to use edge pins but it sounds like that is not the best idea. Centerline pins would only grab a portion of the tang area...maybe a half moon out of the tang, or else they would be unusually high on the spine.

Would Loveless or hidden bolts grab/hold well enough along the centerline? Seems like a potential weak spot to my (admittedly very inexperienced) engineer's brain.
 
I've done a bunch of knives with a partial tang. I use 2 3/8" pieces of micarta and mill out half the depth of the blade thickness on each piece. I have a mill I can use now, but I did quite a few on a drill press by hand using a small 1/8" mill bit for dremels. Don't use a bigger bit if you're doing it by hand, that's asking for trouble. The small diameter bit gives you good enough control to follow a scribed line pretty nicely. 2 3/8" pieces gives you a 3/4" finished thickness for the handle which is fine for most knifes.

Put the pins in the middle of the handle. It doesn't really matter that the holes will be off center inside the handle. If the handle is fitted and glued up right there so little stress at the pins that they won't be a problem. I've seen factory knifes break, but never through a hole for the pins.
 
I have heard that referred to as a "3/4 tang" The Randall Models 14, 15 and 16 are done like that. I think they may just rout out a groove to the proper depth on the top of a block of Micarta and then shape the handle and glue it all together. The Randalls don't have pins, but it appears that the lanyard tube goes though the tang so there is some mechanical connection. I don't know if they drill a couple of holes in the tang to let the epoxy create a "connection, but that might be a good idea. I would think that the problem with pins would be how off center they will be on the tang.
 
I'm reworking a cheapie, Chinese "chef's knife" I got for 99 cents. After cutting off the plastic handle, I discovered it was a partial tang blade. I cut two brass blanks in the shape of the handle scales and one with the same basic profile but with a cutout that fit around the remaining tang. The brass pieces and the blade were then sandwiched together prior to drilling the pinholes. The front two holes traverse the tang while the last one goes through three layers of brass.



 
Ah....I would call that a "stub" tang and a darn short one too.
 
I did one, once, with a partial tang like you mentioned. In my case, I left the stock for the handle long, then used a table saw to cut the slot. Once that is done, use the band saw to cut the blank to the proper size. Kind of like cutting the handle off of the blank.
 
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