Hammer to the face

JTknives

JTknives

Joined
Jun 11, 2006
Messages
8,651
The other day i was forging out a nice little blade when i did a stray hammer strike. the hammer hit my 300 pound plus post anvil square on and rebounded with so much force i could not stop it and i moved my head just in time to avoid a bad axadent. i was very taken back by how much energy the anvil turned around on me. has this hapened to you much. i mean i get rebound from time to time but this time it just was amazing.
 
Dang JT. Do we need to get a sign for you "Accident Waiting To Happen", that way the bystanders will be safer. :)
 
I saw a guy get hit in the nose with a 20 lb. sledge on a ricochet on a drilling rig. It only knocked him out for a second, though:D After seeing that, I keep my face away from hammers, but you can do whatever you want:p

Glad you got out of the way, bro:thumbup:
 
Happened to me the other day on my 150lb Peter Wright, bout ate the cross pein section of a 3 pounder... that woulda sucked bigtime! Gotta whatch out for those stray monster rebounds!

Jason
 
Some things you just keep to your self, but it sounds like to me you are bragging about your anvil.:cool: Video would be nice.:D
 
Hmathews said:
Some things you just keep to your self, but it sounds like to me you are bragging about your anvil.:cool: Video would be nice.:D
Click to expand...
if i'm going to admit to being a retard of course i'm going to brag a little about the anvil that tryied to take my face off. The hammer i was using was a 4 pound cross pean :) sure i will do a little video of wacking some got steel.
 
One thing we can sure say about yoy JT, you're honest!

Folks with more experience than I might pitch in, but if it were me, I'd try a bit lighter of a hammer and concentrate more on accuracy instead of impact force. Whenever I saw a stray hammer blow, I believe it always involved excessive force, thus less control. Too much hammer weight can contribute to the same thing.

Sounds like your kick [ass] face anvil probably did not sustain a dent.
 
Farmer Phil said:
One thing we can sure say about yoy JT, you're honest!

Folks with more experience than I might pitch in, but if it were me, I'd try a bit lighter of a hammer and concentrate more on accuracy instead of impact force. Whenever I saw a stray hammer blow, I believe it always involved excessive force, thus less control. Too much hammer weight can contribute to the same thing.

Sounds like your kick [ass] face anvil probably did not sustain a dent.
Click to expand...

ya i was really whacking the snot out of it as it was 1" L6 round barstock.
 
JT, I almost hate to give you new ideas, but since you love to make new things and have so much spare time while healing from injuries......
You might want to make a drawing anvil. It is a post anvil with a curved top. A 2" radius works well. The easy way is to weld a piece of 2" round to a post, but you could mill/grind the radius in the post top. I have a piece of round stock with a saddle that fits on my anvil for this. It speeds up drawing out thick stock by hand. It takes a little practice to get hand drawing down, but goes real fast when the anvil height is right and your eye-hand coordination is good. When you really get it down, use a 4# drawing hammer ( straight peen) to fuller both sides while drawing.

Stacy
 
I'm with Phil on this one. Enthusiasm is great, but it must be tempered with some control. Call me a wuss if you like, but I do most of my work with a 2.2lb hammer. If I REALLY need to break out the whup-ass I pick up my 3lb hammer. That's the biggest hand hammer in the shop. That said, some number of years of practice have given me a little bit of hammer control, and I can move more steel with that 2.2lb hammer than a lot of guys can swinging wildly with a 4lb hammer. If you really have to swing a 4lb hammer that hard on 1in stock, you probably either aren't heating your steel enough and making too much work for yourself (you're going to reset grain in the HT anyways, run it at almost welding heat), or you're trying to prove something. Either way if you work smarter, you'll save your body a lot of wear and tear over the years. Sure, it doesn't seem like it to you now, but it will matter a lot in your future.

You've got a small press right? Why not use it to break down stock?

-d
 
JT yu might get one of these :D:D:D
at-the-crease-hockey-goalie-ken-danby-canada.jpg
http://www.pajamadeen.com/images/at-the-crease-hockey-goalie-ken-danby-canada.jpg
 
deker said:
I'm with Phil on this one. Enthusiasm is great, but it must be tempered with some control. Call me a wuss if you like, but I do most of my work with a 2.2lb hammer. If I REALLY need to break out the whup-ass I pick up my 3lb hammer. That's the biggest hand hammer in the shop. That said, some number of years of practice have given me a little bit of hammer control, and I can move more steel with that 2.2lb hammer than a lot of guys can swinging wildly with a 4lb hammer. If you really have to swing a 4lb hammer that hard on 1in stock, you probably either aren't heating your steel enough and making too much work for yourself (you're going to reset grain in the HT anyways, run it at almost welding heat), or you're trying to prove something. Either way if you work smarter, you'll save your body a lot of wear and tear over the years. Sure, it doesn't seem like it to you now, but it will matter a lot in your future.

You've got a small press right? Why not use it to break down stock?

-d
Click to expand...

My sentiments exactly.
 
Could just wear a suit of 15th century plate armor while waging war on that one inch bar of steel I guess (It would look really cool anyways). I wonder if the viking god Thor ever had that problem with his hammer.:D
 
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bladsmth said:
JT, I almost hate to give you new ideas, but since you love to make new things and have so much spare time while healing from injuries......
You might want to make a drawing anvil. It is a post anvil with a curved top. A 2" radius works well. The easy way is to weld a piece of 2" round to a post, but you could mill/grind the radius in the post top. I have a piece of round stock with a saddle that fits on my anvil for this. It speeds up drawing out thick stock by hand. It takes a little practice to get hand drawing down, but goes real fast when the anvil height is right and your eye-hand coordination is good. When you really get it down, use a 4# drawing hammer ( straight peen) to fuller both sides while drawing.

Stacy
Click to expand...

That sounds like a good idea.
You could have it easily slide onto the top of your anvil, JT.
I have a feeling that he is going to make this an all stainless power hammer :D
 
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