Hamon question?

That won't cut it. It's rated to only 300F. You could use something like Rutland's furnace cement.

--Nathan
 
I just found JW's old thread on a similar question, I'm all set guys thanks again:)
 
Ace has some caulk in a tube,can take 2000 deg.you have to let it dry.It worked on 1084 for me.Not so sure about the metals that have to soak.
Eddie
 
The "fire place caulk" in the tube is Rutland's or similar.

Any refractory clay or coating material will work. Most hardware stores have a small tub of it that should last for years. The biggest problems new makers have is putting it on too thick, and not letting it dry well before heating. Just a wash coat over the whole blade, dry that, and a thin coating along the spine. 1/16" to a max of 1/8" is all you want.
 
I used to use the refractory clay from home depot. The key to getting it to work is to thin it out some from how they sell it. At least the stuff I had was way too thick. Like Stacy says, you dont need too much. I find that with Aldo's 1084, and 1084 in general the hamon creeps up into the clay, so you can apply it a little closer to the edge. With 1095 and W2, the hamon tends to plunk pretty much where you put the cement. A few other things. I actually put the stuff into the forge wet. The forge dries it up, but I did notice that the refractory cement expands a little, so you have to work that into your calculations. I now use satanite (which I highly recommend and a pound or two of it will last several years) and it does not expand at all. The key to all of this is to make sure your blade is nice and clean. Get all oil and fingerprints off of it. The clay may pop off in the quench, and that is actually ok for the most part, it has already done it's job, but falling off in the forge is not ok.
Good luck.
 
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