Hamon Question

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Dec 29, 2016
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I know their is a massive forum on this topic, but i have some fresh perspective & some updated questions - who knows, maybe this elusive art has been solved in a couple years (terrible joke).

So let's start this thread with my massive obsession with Jelle Hazenburg, chefs knives that he and Don Nguyen make, and their hamons. Jelle is one of my idles that i look up to and compare everything too, his style & everything are incredibly unique. His sculpting is also insane - among everything else, but something i can't get over is the fact that the hamons he achieves look literally printed on. They're perfect, EVERYTIME. I know he mentions having to redo blades because they don't come out right - and social media is a highlight reel, keeping almost all the failures under wraps, but my god. The formula for him is OBVIOUSLY dialed in (even though he still makes mistakes, and yes, i know the vast amount of variables in play here when we're talking about hamons).

Bit of backstory - i got some 26C3/410 core san mai, which has been the push it's time to pursue chef's knives again, or fail repeatedly (it's hot in AZ and if i'm not committed to whatever i'm working on, it's way too easy to quit in the heat). So before i wreck this san mai bar that is more expensive than the regular stuff, i decided to buy some regular 26C3 and do a test batch. I cut out 3 blanks (.150" thick, i know it's thick for a chef's knife but i want to convex grind like Don Nguyen - a man can dream here okay), and shipped them off to HT.

I got them in yesterday, and began working on them. I surface ground the first one, developed a game plan, and started to grind the bevels. I was only able to complete one side, before having to call it a night. So today, when i got to getting the other bevel ground in, i start to see something peeking through at me. By the time i got to 220 i could see if SUPER well, that crazy unicorn hamon is there (i didn't do the HT, i have no idea the process besides - baked in a kiln and quenched in parks 50, tempered twice, and then hardness tested). I know the HRC is 63. The hamon currently is hard to picture, and i don't have ferric on hand to test or check (i also plan to use white vinegar & lemon juice, the method that Willie details out in the other thread) but it's the kind of hamon i want to produce - intentionally. It's hard to see it now but i can tell it's insanely active, super cloudy, and going to have lots of contrast. I'm out of 220 sandpaper (or i'd be hand sanding right now), but i'll follow up this thread with whatever i reveal.

I plan to use Willie's method that he detailed out in the thread, but use FFFF pumice as my polish.

The question i have is, how on earth did i get this lucky - or any thoughts, kind of hard to speculate but i know clay wasn't used and also, what are your methods / have they changed at all since the last thread?
 
If I understand you correctly, you sent out profiled blades for HT and then ground the bevels after.
Normally, to expect a hamon I would expect you to grind the bevels first, and then whoever does the HT has to put clay on the spine and upper part of the bevels. Otherwise the conditions are the same over the entire blade. Did I miss something?
 
If I understand you correctly, you sent out profiled blades for HT and then ground the bevels after.
Normally, to expect a hamon I would expect you to grind the bevels first, and then whoever does the HT has to put clay on the spine and upper part of the bevels. Otherwise the conditions are the same over the entire blade. Did I miss something?

Nope, you’re 100% right. But the activity I’m seeing - at least this far is all little clouds and whisps by the spine of the knife. I have a picture I’ll upload, I don’t think I see anything anywhere near the edge, but we’ll see as I sand and begin etching.
 
We also know that the clay really doesn’t work to influence the pattern as much as it works to just thermally insulate that area from the massive phase change / rapid quench. (I could be wrong, but this is what I’ve gathered from endless reading).

it seems that where all my thermal mass was, worked to insulate itself at the core from these insane rapid shifts. The clouds stop 1” - 1.5” from the tip. It’s hard to speculate now as it’s not finished, and it could just be a botched HT with spots everywhere, but from what I can tell it follows the spine perfectly, and stops well before the tip, and gets no where near the edge - cutting or spine. It’s like dead in the middle
 
I'll be interested to see what you have.
I'm working on two in 26c3 myself right now.
I noticed John Doyle posted in the customs section that he is disappointed in this material and won't keep trying it for hamons... I hope I get lucky.
 
I'll be interested to see what you have.
I'm working on two in 26c3 myself right now.
I noticed John Doyle posted in the customs section that he is disappointed in this material and won't keep trying it for hamons... I hope I get lucky.


I’ve heard the exact opposite and that it’s HIGHLY active - which is why I wasn’t to surprised to see one at the core. I will for sure update next weekend when I get back to working on it :)
 
I'll be interested to see what you have.
I'm working on two in 26c3 myself right now.
I noticed John Doyle posted in the customs section that he is disappointed in this material and won't keep trying it for hamons... I hope I get lucky.


I wonder where he got his from, mine is sourced from AKS.
 
YjRmzbW.jpg


Hard to photograph, and it also is like half sanded at 220, so i apologize, but you can vaguly see what i'm talking about.
 
On mine I can see what is going on once I get past 120 grit, but it comes out dramatically upon etching.
 
On mine I can see what is going on once I get past 120 grit, but it comes out dramatically upon etching.

I got it shined in a way that i could see it better, i can only say that from what i can tell, it's going to be world class.
 
Here's one in 26c3. The hamon showed up much lower than I wanted. This steel has a lower hardenability than I expected, with the pinch of chrome and all... I think I'll try a water quench next time, as per Veostalpine's recommendation.

Killer work and i love the look you got, what steps / materials do you use to polish / progress through making the hamon pop?
 
Here's one in 26c3. The hamon showed up much lower than I wanted. This steel has a lower hardenability than I expected, with the pinch of chrome and all... I think I'll try a water quench next time, as per Veostalpine's recommendation.

Also, clay? Were bevels ground before hand?
 
Furnace gasket cement as clay, thin layer around 1/16". The blade was preground to around 1/16" at edge. Typical hand sanding up to #1500. Then a very short dip in 1:5 ferric. Then I gently removed the oxides with #3000 paper.

I doubt it's the best way to do this but it works for me...
 
You should look into Greg Cimms. His hamon game is tight.

Already follow him, but I know him by his handle & his laminates. Not his hamons, I’ll have to dig around. His laminated steel doesn’t even make sense??
 
You have an auto hamon
Usually can happen at thicker part of spine where blade holds heat

This is exactly what I was thinking, it seems to be RIGHT where the thermal mass of the blade would be the largest. Floating far from both edges and stopping before the tip. I really hope all three blades end up having it.

I wasn’t planning to get practice polishing out Hamons for a while (although I am planning to get a kiln and move strictly to carbon steel), but it seems I got lucky here. I’ll post the results - I took a video last night before I left that shows it well. I’ll post it here soon.
 
I agree you have auto hamon.
I have worked some with both W2 and 26C3 and have to say I agree with John Doyle that 26C3 isn't quite as good as W2 but I find it good.
I like the ease of heat treating 26C3. It gets screaming hard with a 10 min soak at 1465-1475 and dunk in Parks #50. The W2 I have needs a lot of tender loving care to heat treat but does make awesome hamon.
The first knife is hamon on W2 the second is 26C3.

SCrpXFZl.jpg


ylT5GWxl.jpg
 
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