Hamon

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Mar 22, 2017
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3
I need some help.I've been trying to do hamons on w2 and when i do all the finish grinding after ht there is no visible hamon.Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


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I've found that I can make a faint hamone more visible by etching the blade in feric cloride for a few minutes after hand sanding to 1500 grit.

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Post some pictures. You may still have decarb, or maybe you didn't get to proper temp.
Please describe your methods step by step.
 
I do all my grinding grind my bevel and apply my clay,let it dry,put in HT oven for 30 minutes at 1400 Fahrenheit and quinch in HT oil,remove the knife when it is cool enough were I am able to touch it,wipe it down,do my finish grinding at slow speed starting at 120 grit and end with 600 grit,then hand sand from 400 grit end with 1000.


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I think 1400 is too low. Try 1475. Do you normalize prior to quench. Also a 30 minute soak is probably overkill. There's far more qualified people on here that know more than me, but my recipe is to normalize, grind off decarb and clean steel thoroughly. Apply clay thin, about 1/8" maybe a little less and I stay at least 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the cutting edge. I've been doing ht by forge so I'm trying to teach myself to go by color and timing above magnetic. A 10 min soak should be sufficient for a kiln. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me. What quench medium are you using and are you moving the blade in a cutting motion?
 
First of all, are you sure the clay worked and the spine is soft? Before I ever start polishing/etching I always see if the edge skates a file but bites into the spine.

Getting a hamon to show up with only abrasives can be a bit tricky, because you need to somehow abrade the different structures at different rates. Its more than simply sanding the softer steel faster than the hard steel, too. Want you want is an abrasive that selectively abrades different parts of the steels crystal structure differently. This gives the shimmering, ethereal cloudiness that moves as you look it from different angles. Loose fine abrasives work the best, especially if you use two different abrasives of different harnesses. Personally, I use fine crocus cloth (soft iron oxide) and superfine alumina powder from a ceramics store. You can do it with one, but it takes more time and skill.

Chemically etching is a bit easier, and you can use almost any acid that will selectively attack different steel structures at different rates. This includes citric acid (lemons, Kool-aid powder, etc), vinegar, ferric chloride and many others. The trick is to not over do it and make the etched surface so rough that you don't get any shimmer at all, just a dark vs light area.

For you, unless you have access to loose abrasives, just soak it in warm vinegar for 5-10 minutes at a time, wiping off the oxide and checking the progress until you like it. Neutralize it with ammonia or baking soda so it doesn't keep going, too. Good luck!
 
If you have a hamon, it should be immediately visible upon the first post-heat treating grind.
You don't need to take it all the way to finish before discovering if you have one or not.
With W1/2, I will let the blade cool a minute or two after hardening, hit it quickly on the grinder at about 120 grit, and if I don't like the hamon, go right back to the forge.
To expose and display a hamon, you must first have a hamon.
 
If you used 1400 for your temp and had clay on the blade, especially if the clay was a little on the thick side.....you may not even have a hardened blade, much less any hamon. Are you sure your blade hardened?

1400 is a little low on the austenitizing temp, IMO. And I agree...a 30 min. soak is probably overkill on W2.
 
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