Hand rubbed user?

balibalistic

balibalistic

Joined
Jul 14, 2004
Messages
2,623
Curious fella's,if you were making yourself a user with handrubbed finish,what grit would you take the bevels to??i normally go atleast 1000,but i can see that getting scratched up real quick on a heavy use?whats your thaughts?
 
My personal knives I made I only went up to 320 and left it at that, I use the crap out of them and they still look great.
 
Geez,i start the hand rubbin at 400 :)

i try to get the blade at nearly a mirror on the machine :) i'll see how it looks at 400.thanks for the suggestions guys.

I'm loving the small wheels :)
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i go to 320-400 on user and some times dress up to 600
higher then that i just got to 600 and buff mirror
 
A hand rubbed finish at 400 looks much finer than a 400 grit machine finish. I think it looks fine for "user" knives.
 
AcridSaint said:
A hand rubbed finish at 400 looks much finer than a 400 grit machine finish. I think it looks fine for "user" knives.
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Yes, but a 400 grit dry sand final finish when you use fresh paper for every stroke and pull in one direction will look "coarser" than the 400 grit finish that was wet sanded on the way up to 600. BUT, it will look better. 400-600 wet sand finishes can almost start to take on a "mirror" look after a while as the paper wears down, but with all of those hazy little scratches that you wouldn't want. A lot of the really good looking hand rubbed finishes that you see probably aren't any finer than 600 grit.
 
When satin finishing I rub up to 400 then switch to a grey scotchbrite soaked in cutting oil..actually I use oil through out. Works nice.
 
joelbolden said:
When satin finishing I rub up to 400 then switch to a grey scotchbrite soaked in cutting oil..actually I use oil through out. Works nice.
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You don't mean soaked as in drenched, do you? :D

What speed are you running the belt?

Does it smooth the cutting action of the scotchbrite belt?

I don't use the scotchbrite belts much because I don't like the way the surface of the steel looks, after using them. I can see where the oil might help the cutting.

Thanks in advance for your reply, Fred
 
jdm61 said:
Yes, but a 400 grit dry sand final finish when you use fresh paper for every stroke and pull in one direction will look "coarser" than the 400 grit finish that was wet sanded on the way up to 600. BUT, it will look better. 400-600 wet sand finishes can almost start to take on a "mirror" look after a while as the paper wears down, but with all of those hazy little scratches that you wouldn't want. A lot of the really good looking hand rubbed finishes that you see probably aren't any finer than 600 grit.
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Sorry Joe, I should have mentioned that I always hand sand wet. I've never tried it dry. I like to use simple green or tap magic.
 
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AcridSaint said:
Sorry Joe, I should have mentioned that I always hand sand wet. I've never tried it dry. I like to use simple green or tap magic.
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I have had the best results with Cool Tool 2. it seems to actually improve the cutting of the sandpaper. I use it until the last strokes. Then I use dry paper that is one grit coarser than the last I used for wet sanding and a hard rubber sanding block. Dr. Jim Lucie told me about using a rubber block. It is much easier to get all the way up inot he plunge cut. I "scoot" the paper for every stroke so that I get fresh paper on the corner of the block. Somewhere between 10 and 15 strokes usually does the trick at 400-600 grit.
 
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