Hand Rubbing a Convex Blade

etp777

etp777

Joined
Aug 12, 2002
Messages
2,259
OK, I have a blade here waiting heat treat that turned out pretty well. I was thinking I should skip the ugly tactical stuff I've been doing(ceramic enamel on all the blades). It helped cover up some of the ugly grinds on my old grinder, but didn't make for best looking knife. So I want to hand run this one, but it's convex grind. What do y'all use for sanding block to run a convex grind?
 
glue a piece of a mouse pad to your sanding block......:)
 
Go to the hardware store or lumber yard and get one of those rubber sanding blocks that have a slot in each end and nails to hold the sand paper in then when you get it home cut it down so you have a narrow sanding block. This also works on a hollow grind, just use the top rounded part. Gib
 
Or just glue a couple of pieces of sheath leather back to back (smooth sides out). It is fairly stiff, but can be made to conform to either convex, or concave grinds.
 
Everything I do is convex grind. I find up unto the last few finer grits that using something flat and still works better for me. Here's a couple things that I used. I've got some polyporlene that was used in public restrooms as stall dividers. I'll cut it in 1/4" rips and it will flex to the profile and still remain hard. Also if you can get your hands of some stiff sole leather works really well.

Don't forget the palm sander that Bruce Evans has mentioned except you can leave it the way if comes from the store. No need to add anything to stiffin it up......Ray
 
This is why I love this board. Posted this, then left for my first class. Then get back and have all these responses. :) Thanks, I didn't think of those rubber sanding blocks, but I have one laready, and you're right, seems that'd form just enough and still be stiff. I'm really excited to be making an "adult" knife, just hate that now I have to wait to get out and get the wood, and have to order or get locally some nickel silver for the guard, as I don't think that Brass would look quite right on this blade, esp. with the wood I will be using.

Anyways, thanks again.
 
How about using some stainless in place of the nickel? If you have some of course - you'll never go back once you start using stainless for your fittings. Unless you're shooting for a particular effect as in bronze or some patina, SS is the best thing ever for guards or bolsters. It just won't change, ever; it'll stay the way you made it and that is nice.

Dave
 
I actually may very well use stainless. I sent off email earlier to friend who gets most of my questions, to ask him if I should use stainless or n/s. :)
 
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