Hand Rubbing Blade Finish?

Joined
Mar 17, 2006
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Ok Guy's
I have got plenty of patience but I need a lesson in technique.Has any body got a Good book on the subject. Like blade finishing for dummies?
Thanks for your help on the matter!!!!
 
Dave,
Why don't you come down to my shop for an afternoon. I speak dummy.:D
Mace
 
i always take the blade up to as high a finish as i want on the grinder.... then wrap some paper around a block of micarta thats shaped to the diameter of my grinding wheel.... and have at it. sand agreesively till all the scratches are going the right way... then i slow down and use a kind of worn piece of paper and try to get it nice and even with no stops... one swift pass from pling to tip.

i find that WD40 seems to help cut better/faster. and really smooth out the finish at the end

i've also tried messing with the DMT flexible diamond coated shim stock stuff..... it's very agressive and seems like it would be great for hand sanding... i would love to get a hold of some of the 600.

good luck man....
 
MSC sells some fine diamond polishing paste. A little dab of that on some sandpaper, some cutting fluid of some kind, and lots of elbow grease, and you got yerself a handrubbed blade finish.
 
In past discussion it has been mentioned to sand only in one direction over a specific grit, like 220 or 400 (somebody could correct me there), and besides only drawing in one direction, use the sandpaper like it's free. worn sandpaper is a waste of time cause it's not cutting. when I got up to 400 I drew maybe twice, maybe three strokes before I changed paper. I was using simple green cut with water for the cutting fluid. When you get up there in grit be careful how you place the paper on the steel at the beginning of the stroke or you will get some scratches not parallel to the direction. that was a problem I had at first.
 
I grind up one grit higher than I start sanding at...so that means grinding to 400 grit, then starting back at 220 or 320 with paper. A grinder finish hides a ridiculous amount of small flaws. What looks like a perfect 400 grit finish will reveal a much different story once you begin hand sanding. I "scrub" back and forth with the paper wrapped around a 2"X1/4"X20" bar of steel until 400 grit. From there, I only sand lengthwise from plunge to tip all the way to my finishing grit. Windex or WD-40 does seem to make the paper cut longer, especially at the starting grits. The second I can't "feel" the paper cutting, I move to a new section of paper. Like others have said, treat it like its free and you will gain more $ in time saved than $ saved eeeking the last 10% of use out of a 25 cent sheet of paper.

I sand with a bright light over my shoulder, which will show every tiny scratch that needs to be taken down. Remember that when a scratch needs to be removed, you need to remove meat from the whole blade, not just scrub that one spot.

Once youre at 800+ grit, its a zen experience. Don't just lay the paper on the blade or you will get fishhooks where you begin. Lay an edge of the paper down, then drop the rest of your block onto the blade as you begin to move. Its the starting and stopping that will create those annoying fishhooks.
 
finish with a piece of leather or firm rubber between the paper and your sanding block. I helps avoid the fish hooks and start stop lines.
 
"Water cuts, oil polishes." Some old timer told me that once, and it seems to be true. So I use Windex or just water for finish development, and do the final finishing with Cool Tool II or equivalent.

Also, I think it helps to reduce the likelihood of fishhooks to use a block of hard wood with a sharp edge to run the final swipes. One swipe with the edge of the block, move the paper, etc. You can get right up to the edge of the plunge, then finish the ricasso last.

And like David Schott said, pretend your abrasives are free. That's the best advice you will ever receive! ;)

One last thing. If you're doing flat ground blades, use Bruce Evans' trick: replace the platen on a vibrating hand sander with a Micarta one, and use the hand sander right up to your final grit. You can profile a couple of edges of the Micarta to match your typical plunge curves. This saves more time than you can imagine.
 
I was thinking about this thread as I hand sanded a 12" by 2" wide huge bowie blade last night. I wanted to add the #1 most important thing when hand sanding is a combination of patience and good music in the background.
 
Thanks Guys,
I have been away from my computer for a day or two, and its cool to find these responses piling up.
Thanks for the offer Mace. When we get together I will bring the blade with the issues.
Thanks Dave Schott. This is one area I have to work on around my plunge cuts!
" I sand with a bright light over my shoulder, which will show every tiny scratch that needs to be taken down. Remember that when a scratch needs to be removed, you need to remove meat from the whole blade, not just scrub that one spot."
Thanks Again!!!!
 
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