Hand-Rubbing Hollows

I like to use the same wheel that I ground the hollow with. Just dont turn on the grinder. It might look funny with my butt going back and forth. :)
 
Or you can also trace the curve of your wheel on a piece of backing, and grind it out. Use that for a rubbing block.
 
Thanks for the quick replies everyone (except you Bruce, too vivid a mental image. :D )
 
Do you remember those rubber sanding blocks you by at the hardware store, the ones with the slits in the end nails th hold the sand paper. Cut them to narrow strips with a nail in each end. Put the sand paper on the round side. The ones I have, have a 4" radius(8"dia.)on curved side works great and will flex out for a 10" wheel. Gib
 
mine's a piece of maple off a pallet. It's got two handles on it like a sen. 1/2" dowells and sheet rock screws hold the paper in place.

oh yeah the handles rise above the plane of the blade edge, otherwise you slice off your knuckle :rolleyes: :lol :p
 
I got the same setup as Mike Sweany, kinda. I use some really thick micarta to make mine from. Helps to be a pack rat.
 
Bruce - :eek:


I have used those molding sanding blocks (for cleaning up molding trim, etc.) However, these are usually for smaller radius hollows - like fullers. I think they do make them a little bigger, but not as big as a 10" wheel radius.

Found them at Lee Valley and Woodcraft. Cheap and easy to use.
 
Daniel, Thy are a perfect fit on for a 8" wheel and work well for 10" wheel, a little pressure and thy conform to the hollow. Gib
 
Gib - I must've skipped your post...oops!

I don't grind on a wheel, so I couldn't confirm it - but now I know! That's good because I have a few hollow-ground blades (by others) I've been meaning to touch up a little...
 
Per Bob Engnath's instructions, I cut a block of oak about 3mm less than 8" diameter and stuck some 3mm rubber on it. Works quite nicely.

Peter
 
I use a thing I made tha looks like an eraser that has a rounded bottom on it.
it contours for any size or shape you press it in.works very well on those hard places like up next to the plunge cut :)
 
I like bruce got that swing :D
I even used the paten today the same way on a bowie blade I just ground out
not too bad going..just used the same motions and less electric
like O :D
 
I use 3/4" wide, 1/8" thick piece of welding iron I picked up from the hardware store. I bend it carefully to the circumference of my contact wheel and then cut it down to 5". I have two of them, one with a piece of gasket rubber glued to it for final finish and one without for cleaning the grind line.

David.
 
I'd mentioned my method of satin finishing awhile back but didn't have a picture. Here it is.

1/2 of a 1" x 10" smooth Urethane contact wheel from Bertie Reitveld with DeStaco clamps on each end. I cut the paper into 1" strips and clamp it on. I can use WD40 or other fluids with no problems.

Of all the ways I've tried over the years, this one works best for me.
 
Kit Carson said:
1/2 of a 1" x 10" smooth Urethane contact wheel......... I can use WD40 or other fluids with no problems.
Click to expand...


My latest method is very similar.
I had a contact wheel ruined by a company in Kentucky during the process of recovering.
They had to buy me a new Burr King 10"wheel, and didn't want the old one back.

I had a machine shop turn the center out, then cut sections of 3-4" length, flattened the aluminum rim with a mill, split them into 1" wide, and just ground the radius of my different wheels in them. They are nice, and I ended up with a bunch of them.

You can do hollows with the rubber side, or flats with the aluminum side. :eek: :D
 
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