Hand Sanding 101

NickWheeler

NickWheeler

Joined
Dec 3, 1999
Messages
9,437
When I made a couple hand sanding videos before, I had NO idea they'd get brought up/mentioned much. But it seems that they have been...:foot:

Unfortunately, those were not geared toward a newer maker that doesn't have the equipment and experience to start hand sanding with 320, or 500, or even 800X paper.


Since I'm such a hell of a nice guy;) , I put together a new video that is geared toward newer makers. Or old ones that can't grind that well. :D

If you're one of the youtube warriors that demands all videos be 1-2 minutes... then you won't like this... and I also suggest you find a new hobby. ;) :) It will take you about half an hour to watch it, but it took me several hours to make it.



Here it is, for whatever it's worth!!! And remember, unless you send me a check for this, my complaint box is not accepting submissions. :)


[video=youtube;4I4x4QLpfnk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4x4QLpfnk[/video]
 
I have not watched it yet, since I'm just going to sleep, but I will be sure to watch it in the morning, probably several times. I just wanted to take the time to thank you for all the advice and help you provide on this forum for both us rookies, and more experienced guys alike. People like you are what makes this place a great resource and my favorite place online by far. Thanks Nick.
 
super super great video. well worth the 27min to watch it. ty for taking the time to make it. i cant wait to try it out tomorrow, well later today. if i get good results ill post a pic.
 
Thanks man, your videos are always good to watch. Just happens to be what I'm doing right now too. The very last part was new info for me and I bet is the same technique Stacy hinted at previously in relation to making a crisp yokote. I shall go and apply both foam to the sanding stick (can't believe I hadn't thought of that yet) and your instruction to my work.
 
ooh can't wait to watch tomorrow I have no doubt it will be well worth my time, thanks for taking your time to share with us!
 
Thanks for the video. I know they are a pain to make.

My first job was at a small industrial/scientific electronics manufacturer. I had many techniques for applying different machine and hand brushed finishes for decorative purposes, or to match existing hardware during repairs. Not surprisingly, pretty much the same exact techniques work equally well for Knifemaking, and are quite similar to what most of the vets use.

I think a much larger problem for me is scratch mitigation after I finish the blade. It seems no matter how hard I try, I always manage to put at least one tiny scratch into the finished blade, even doing something as simple as peeling off the tape. It frustrates me even worse, because the company I mentioned above specialized in optics, and I was the clean room manager (of sorts). I even helped design our clean room and developed custom processes for polishing optics, yet I just can't seem to keep a finished surface finished until completion on my knives, and there is inevitable re-work and re-re-work.
 
Thanks for putting this together Nick. This video answered a few questions that I still had about hand sanding.
Thanks for taking the time to help out the community.
 
Nick, thank you so much for taking the time to explain the sanding process. I have watched it twice and am sure that I will be watching it again. It's people like you that share information freely that makes the knife community as great as it is.
 
Thanks Nick, very well done and liked the safety aspect of keeping your cutting edge on the backing and watching your hands and fingers, again thanks for taking the time to do this.
 
I've been wanting a vise like that for sometime now. Yours kind of looks like the 5" Harbor Freight swivel vise (most cause of the color), if that is the case how are you like it?
 
I wish I would have seen this sooner. Awesome video.
Nick, Question - at the very end of the video you are talking about washing the lines out by sanding right over the grind edge. So, I did that. I have a decent looking blade but the lines are not crisp. I put the handle on already. Could you give some advise on how to fix that up if possible? Or is it too late at this point? Thank you!
 
I haven't watched it yet I will tonight but I'll say thanks for making this. Everything you do on here is excellent and always brings value. Thanks Nick
 
Great video. Thank you.

If someone doesn't contact you to put out a how to book or video series I might take out a loan and we can do the damn thing.
 
Sage advice in this video, and very helpful for those starting out. If I could pick one thing to remember from Nick's video here, it would be to get all the scratch marks of the previous grit out BEFORE you move on. And the best way to accomplish this is by changing direction of sanding and by using various lighting.

I cannot tell you how many times I've had to piddle away lots of extra time by having to go back to a lower grit after moving on because I missed a scratch (or got lazy). Commit to achieving the best finish you can and don't stop until you get there. That said, save yourself time by being systematic and freaking anal retentive about each step.

--nathan
 
We love you Nick Wheeler


Watched it once.
Now, working on the 10X reps.


I added it to the standard reply, newest update v32 too.


Don't Quit
Awesome.
 
Thanks guys, I'm glad it's being well received! :)



I'm frustrated that it will only play in a lower resolution! :grumpy: I shot it all in HD, and it plays on my computer very clear and pretty well lit. But somewhere along the line of getting it uploaded to u-tube... it will only play at 480p. :thumbdn: :mad: There are important details that show up on the original, that don't show up at all on the u-tube version.


I do KNOW it could have been half the length had I excluded my personal little interjections and JUST shown the actual sanding methods. However, IMHO, if you just show the actual physical steps involved, there will be MANY questions left unanswered.



I do apologize for my stammering. :o :foot: Doing this type of thing sure gives me a much greater appreciation for folks like news reporters and radio personalities that manage to speak clearly and quickly. Even trying to speak slowly and clearly (I normally ramble like crazy when I get goin!!! :foot:) I still managed to have WAAAAAY TOO MANY "um"s and "you know"s included in there. :o




If I ever find a way to get paid for any of this stuff, then maybe I'll take a class on how to project oneself more clearly on camera! ;) :D



Thanks guys. :)
 
Ian- your work background has to be the best platform for getting a guy into knife making that I've ever heard of! :thumbup: :cool: I totally agree... it's the accidental scratches that I fight with MUCH MORE than the ones that I expect to deal with. :grumpy: :D


Widerstand said:
I've been wanting a vise like that for sometime now. Yours kind of looks like the 5" Harbor Freight swivel vise (most cause of the color), if that is the case how are you like it?
Click to expand...


It did come from Harbor Freight...but that was back in 1996. I looked at their current version of this vise just the other day, and it looks like crap. Their current version is about half the weight of mine. I can't recommend that STYLE of vise enough, but I wouldn't recommend buying the ones they carry now. Keep an eye on CL and ebay. Grizzly sells a few versions (I wanna say a 4", 5", and a 6") that are built like the one I have, but they're fairly spendy (for a Chicom tool).


shurik6 said:
Nick, Question - at the very end of the video you are talking about washing the lines out by sanding right over the grind edge. So, I did that. I have a decent looking blade but the lines are not crisp. I put the handle on already. Could you give some advise on how to fix that up if possible? Or is it too late at this point?
Click to expand...


If the handle is already on, it sure makes it harder to work on the blade. It can be done... Just like Ian was talking about, it's easy to end up with an errant scratch somewhere and have to go back and fix it.

When that happens, I would set up the vise and board (or angle iron, whatever) just like in the video. I have pieces of leather, in various sizes, that have PSA craft foam stuck to them that I use as "shims" under the blade (since the guard&handle are going to raise the blade way up off the board).

I put another leather/foam piece under the handle, and one on top... THEN clamp the knife down to the board.

It's a PITA, but it works.
 
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