Hand Sanding Directions?

Brian Avila

Brian Avila

Joined
Jan 2, 2011
Messages
1,286
So.... I have been having a hard time with hand sanding. I go length wise to the blade and then go 90 degrees to that and then back to length direction. I don't have big problems going the length direction but I do going 90 degrees to the spine.

When I was starting out I hear of people going at some angle like 45 degrees or 30 degrees to the length of the blade and switch it up. But when I try that I can't get the plunge area.

So what am I doing wrong? I have been trying to work it out and just get tired and I am stumped. ( makes me feel stupid :( )

-Brian-
 
LucyCustomKnives said:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=892583

When I saw this I changed how I finished out a blade. Much more efficient than what I was doing...
Click to expand...

Yeah, I have seen that thread. If I would have posted to that thread and asked about the directions, then I would have gotten yelled at for thread resurrection, so this is why I made this thread. I understand everything Nick said in his video except when it comes down to the directions.

I can change directions, but with a flat sanding stick when you come to the ricasso/plunge junction I can not get the entire area because my stick will either connect at the top or the bottom but not both, depending on the direction I am going.

So what is done at the plunge area?
 
I basically followed how Nick sands and it totally changed everything. Did you grind a small bevel into your sanding stick? When I get to the plunge, I tilt the sanding stick towards the plunge and sweep up and out of it. It works going in any direction. Possibly your bevel is not flat, more of a convex? Maybe slow down when you get to the plunge, making sure the whole surface of your stick is in contact with the bevel.

Let me try and find a pic of my sanding sticks for you...

Here is my bigger one.

2013Progress007.jpg


I have also found that keeping your sanding stick perpendicular? to the bevel for each direction works best. Instead of turning your stick 45*, try keeping it straight and move your hands in a 45* direction. That way when you get to the plunge, you just have to sweep up and out. Hope that made sense.
 
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I don't think I am explaining this enough. Here is the sanding stick I use:

5739A0BC-59E2-4855-945F-492A4B100E45_zps5npszla0.jpg


Now, this is the sanding stick at the bevel ricasso junction:

24CB4740-1AD5-4B5D-9624-5FC21AC98746_zpschufehqn.jpg


676C0D34-7463-4115-8950-F0FB5982DB04_zpsyko4euhe.jpg


Now, looking at the pictures: can you see the triangle that the sanding stick makes with the ricasso plunge? That area is not being sanded at an angled direction. I can't get to it at an angle. One direction makes you go on the ricasso, the other direction stops you because of the ricasso shoulders. To hit that the little triangle parts I have to go length wise. Or parallel with the shoulder, but I hear that you guys are not?

I ask because it is really hard to sand perpendicular to the edge, and the angle would make it easier like length wise strokes.
 
Steven Long - after rereading your post a couple of times it dawned on me that keeping the sanding stick perpendicular to the edge and then moving my hands at the directions would help but I am still unclear about what you mean to sweep up and out when you get to the ricasso.
 
I got you now. Keep the stick parallel to the plunge line at all times and sand at a 45* angle. Don't turn your stick at all. I will usually cut a wider piece of sand paper to help with this. Does that make sense? I could probably make a short video in the next few hours if that would help better...

It took me a while to figure it out and get the technique down.
 
:thumbup: Subscribed. any sanding help for me is huge, I have had the same question as Weatherman but after reading this I get it, i was turning my stick just like he is. I love this forum! My sticks are not that thick of metal though, I may have to remake with a deeper longer bevel like these, I would assume mild steel would work fine, or aluminum (I have some 3/4 aluminum sitting around)?
 
When I start to approach the plunge, I lift the back of the stick up (tilted toward the plunge) and the only contact is at the edge of the bevel (on the stick) to the knife. Once I reach the plunge, I follow it out in a sweeping motion. After reading this, it really is hard to explain in words. I'm not sure if I'm making sense. Let me go take some pictures for you. Be back in a minute.
 
Steven Long said:
I will usually cut a wider piece of sand paper to help with this. Does that make sense? I could probably make a short video in the next few hours if that would help better...

It took me a while to figure it out and get the technique down.
Click to expand...

How wide are you cutting your paper strips? Video always helps everyone if you are up for that...
 
Waiting for the video to upload now.

I cut my sandpaper close to 2" wide when going 45*. When sanding parallel to the cutting edge, I cut a strip that is a tad wider than the bevel on the knife.
 
That helps a lot!!! That's for taking the time and showing the video.

What size is your sanding stick? Like how long and how wide? How thick? I might have to make a fancy one like that!
 
Nicely done Steven. That's exactly the method I figured out too. I'll be making a new sanding stick like that one but made from a brass bar.
 
Thanks, guys and you're welcome. I started on a 2x42 and had to do a lot of hand sanding on the first few. I made these sanding sticks before I even finished my first knife...

2013Progress001_zpsfc667a35.jpg


The larger one is 3/16" thick x 7 3/4" long x 1 1/2" wide and the brass one is almost 6" long x 3/4" wide. I need to make one more like the wide one but a little longer and slim the micarta down some.
 
Well put Steven. I was going to add a description with the thread reference basically trying to say what you said... but I am sure I would be clear as mud.

I basically took what Nick was showing and ran with it. I still free grind up to finishing, but from there I have several sanding blocks that have everything from curves to wierd angles on some surface of them. If you run into trying to square up an odd surface, the easiest way is often to make the mirror image of that surface as a tool and support your abrasive. The idea being to create an outside surface to make an inside surface... See, clear as mud...

Brass is good, aluminum sometimes, steel of course, and even hardwoods will support abrasives nicely for making complex shapes nice and even. And the old addage of using sandpaper like its free is a good one. Dont kill yourself trying to make trashed paper work.
 
Good tips in here. Hardest part for me is that I do mostly big blades, and let me tell you, hand sanding along 27" of blade is challenging, to say the least. I'm just starting that process with my current project. I need to rig up some jigs for it.
 
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