Handle care ?

pitdog

pitdog

Joined
Apr 13, 2007
Messages
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Do wooden handle slabs require any special care or treatment ,oil/polish etc?
 
Honestly, my JK's are my first quality knives without micarta handles. I would be curious to this too. I would assume since they're stablized they wouldn't need much. Maybe a wipe down and a light coat of oil. I really have no idea though.
 
Tung oil works well. I know John uses linseed oil on his handles, they should keep pretty well without special care.
 
On my wood handled knives, I like to give them a coat of mineral oil every now and again when I swipe the blade.
 
Sorry, I`ve been down sick. I use boiled linseed oil, rubbed in with my fingers. I know Rotte has a secret concoction he puts on handles, maybe he will see this.
 
I put mineral oil on all my wood, stag...handled knives. I also use it a great deal on the blades after use. It works well to prevent rust, and keep the handles from drying out and cracking, and is available at any pharmacy.
 
Tru Oil is great stuff. It's easy to apply and looks great. I figure that a gunstock undergoes pretty harsh conditions (rain, snow, heat...) so the stuff had to work on other projects. I've used it on small woodworking projects and it's great. I know that some folks finish their guitars with Tru Oil with excellent results.
 
"Secret concoction"

I learned this from a New England furniture maker and it works well for wooden handled tool as well as fine furniture.

I mix 2 parts turpentine with 1 part linseed oil and 1 part spar varnish (or any oil-based urethane varnish). This makes a thin solution that spreads easily and can penetrate fairly well. As it was explained to me, the turpentine (or mineral spirits) helps the linseed oil dry more easily. The linseed oil makes the urethane more flexible and resilient. This combination is very protective, especially from water, and can be restored easily. Apply and let dry. Brush with 0000 steel wool between coats.

In a similar vein, the historic Plymouth Plantation in New England makes a finish called "Miracle Finish" from melted beeswax, turpentine, and linseed oil. I haven't tried this yet but I've heard its quite good. I think the ratios are about the same. Might have to mess around a bit to get it right--I like the more natural approach this provides.
 
That turp/linseed/spar blend was first made known to me in a Fine Woodworking articel by Garrett Hack. His furniture looks amazing and he uses the stuff for all of his fine furniture. It's probably his choice because of the very reasons you mentioned.
 
PB Wilson said:
That turp/linseed/spar blend was first made known to me in a Fine Woodworking article by Garrett Hack. His furniture looks amazing and he uses the stuff for all of his fine furniture. It's probably his choice because of the very reasons you mentioned.
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Garrett Hack was the guy! I just couldn't remember his name. I heard him talk at a woodworking show somewhere on the East Coast about 10 years ago. That recipe stuck with me ever since. His proportions may have been a little different. As I recall he varied the mixture a bit depending on conditions and thinned it out for the first coat. He was a really good speaker and helluva nice guy.

 
Mostly I use Renaissance Wax (if the handle has been oiled by the maker).

The suggestions already posted are excellent as well in my experience, though tung oil needs significant thinning before use.
 
How about linen micarta? I have a linen micarta handle, that when moist looks beautiful, but when dry has a dull greyish appearance. Any help?
 
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