Handle design/material for cleanliness

69_knives

69_knives

Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
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Ok, so I'm a newb and I have a request for a knife that can be used in an environment where meat is processed and sold so there is a concern for cleanliness and minimizing areas where bacteria can hide and live. he also wants somewhat of a guard.

for the most part, the blade will be forged so I'm thinking I can shape the ricasso to make the guard but not sure about the handle. Maybe aluminum scales held on with marine epoxy and brass pins.

Any other suggestions?
 
Why not a hidden tang design? That would offer fewer "cracks" or spaces for gunk to hide in, and for bacteria to grow. A synthetic material such as smooth micarta, G10, corian, or even that aluminum you mentioned.
 
Thanks for the suggestions.

I got another idea; cast the handle around the tang with a 2 part casting resin. Most likely cast in something like a cardboard tube and then file, grind and shape after it is hardened.
 
a mortised tang will work, too.

I'd think any stabilized wood would work out, some of the butcher knives I've done for the local shop are pakkawood. For non stabilized, some are ipe with a 600 grit and buffer finish and some tung oil. Nothing has stuck to them yet.
 
From a commercial kitchen perspective. Micarta, stabilized woods and the extreme hardwoods that don't require stabilization (cocobolo, ironwood, ipe, lignum vitae) and believe it or not a lot of chef's that I know LIKE paka/dymond wood. Here's the main consideration, if the user is going to be a commercial chef then go ahead and use any of the above and you can use soft metals like brass. If it's a meat packing butcher shop application, go with micartas, rubber and pakawood and use SS for fittings.
 
Cleanliness ? Some places don't permit carbon steel in that environment . Stainless steels are more difficult to forge.
 
Are you forging or stock removal?

If forging you could forge the guard as integral part of the blade, and do a hidden tang. This way there is no gap or cracks were the blade meets the handle. And the only joining surface would be were your handle material meets the guard. And if you fit and finish it well, nothing will be able to get in there.

Hope that makes sense.
 
The professional cutlery I make for chefs is mainly stainless (with 1095 occasionally,by request). The handles are almost always canvas Micarta, or linen Micarta. I mortise the tang, and use Corby bolts. Sometimes they are full tang. I use a good grade 24 hour epoxy for the seal/adhesive (K&G epoxy dyed to match the handle color). When there are bolsters they are stainless, pinned and soldered to get a complete seal.

TIP: You can use one or two Corby bolts to mount the bolsters. It will clamp the bolster down tight and allow a real good solder seal. Flow some solder around the Corby,to seal it tight,too.
For a neat effect, use a brass Corby on a nickel or stainless bolster. Once all is soldered down well, saw off the excess and file/sand flush. You may need to shorten the stud and socket some on thinner knife/bolster thicknesses (just grind them both shorter). Keep things cool when grinding/sanding/polishing, as the solder will melt at about 400F.

My Sashimi knives are made with a hidden tang. The "bolster" is ebony, and the main part of the handle is usually stabilized curly maple. Occasionally I use a small stainless bolster ,then just one wood type. The seal is the resin used above ,dyed black.

I would not recommend you put a guard on a piece of professional cutlery.
Stacy
 
Most chef's use a "pinch grip" where they choke up and actually hold the knife with the blade with only the ring and pinky fingers on the handle. I've never actually seen a pro level knife with a guard on it, even the small paring/utility knives.
 
For kitchen knives I like to use white corian and stainess pins/rivets and bolsters. Brass parts in time gets a patina on it and also it is easy to scratch. The scratches are the places where bacterias like to hide...
 
Thanks for the responses. I've got some time to think on it and come up with a final decision.

The knife is for a private person that cuts meat and butchers, not necessarily in that order.
 
im with the mass here
SS blade no guard (less asked for ) and G10 or micarta

knowing what the buyer wants if the biggest part of kitchen knives (hunting also) as every one learned a different way of using there knives and to that you need to match up with there style and use
 
galadduin said:
For kitchen knives I like to use white corian and stainess pins/rivets and bolsters. Brass parts in time gets a patina on it and also it is easy to scratch. The scratches are the places where bacterias like to hide...
Click to expand...

Same here, Corian for kitchen knives. good stuff. As long as the tang is flat and a liberal amount of epoxy is used there will be no place for critters to hid in.
 
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