Handle design of a half tang + pics

galadduin

galadduin

Joined
Dec 25, 2004
Messages
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I am preparing a bday present for my sister. I started to make some knife designs for a fruit/vegetable knife but soon I figured there was not enough D2 stock thin enough left (I am making it by stock-removal: my first attempt to stock remove). So I ordered some but it will take a while to arrive and I will miss the b-day. I made a blank from the left-over D2 stock (reed-knives and a big hunter consumed my stock). It became half tang as the lenght of the stock was not enough. I didnt make any half-tang and I cannot figure how should I design the handle. Any advices:

29bz35

29bz3r
 
Emre, If you have the equipment available you can cut a slot in the handle for the tang,then shape the bottom of the tang to fit the slot.This is tricky and takes special equipment.It is easier to use two scales (split the handle into two slabs) .Basically ,its just the same as a full mortised handle.Drill your tang and shape the end to curve up to the exposed spine,not round end as you sketched (it is easier to mortise than a round end).Take one scale and mortise it for the half tang,make it a good fit,especially on the end of the tang (don't forget to clamp the scales together and shape and polish the bolster area first,because you won't be able to grind it after assembly). Glue up the mortised scale to the tang,and when dry,sand it flush.Drill your rivet holes through that scale,and glue on the other scale.Drill the rivet holes through after it is dry.Screw or glue in your rivets,let dry,and finish the handle as you would any full tang knife.
Stacy
 
Thanks Stacy,

I will go for a mortised type half-tang like you have adviced. I thought I could do a slot but I was afraid that there would be some gap, but by making it mortised it is fairly easy to work...
 
Why not grind the top of the tang down some and make it a hidden tang? Then you could use any handle design that you like. You don't need any special equipment to make a slot for a hidden tang ...as it only needs to be 'exact' where the blade exits the handle. A bench vise, a drill, and some files are all you need. Clamp the handle upright in the vise, and drill a series of holes using a bit that matches the thickness of the tang (or slightly under). Clean up the holes into a 'slot' with a small file, checking frequently for fit as you go. When it is 'dry fit' correctly, mark the outside of the handle with the outline of the tang, then drill any pin holes all at once with the blade 'dry fit' into the handle. Glue it up, insert tang into handle, and pins thru holes. Presto!
 
First I want to say those are some nice looking designs. Nice job.

I guess my only question would have to be, why?

I can see why a production company would do a half tang. Save a few cents in steel per knife on 50,000 knives and your talking some serious money.

Is there a structural benifit to a half tang vs stick tang or full tang? :confused:

Why not just make a full tang or a stick tang if there isnt?

I dont know if there is or not, thats why im asking. Can someone enlighten me?
If there is i'll start making them too.
 
As I see it, the 'downside' to a half tang for a kitchen knife would be that the portion of the tang that is exposed would be a place for moisture and gunk to enter into the handle/tang when washing or using the knife if the glue joint isn't perfect. A hidden tang only has a seam where the blade exits the handle (and of course a full tang has a seem the entire length of the handle). Not a problem so much if you're using stainless, but for other steels it is definitely something to think about.

My understanding is that you see half tangs on cheaper knives because it is easier to cut a precise slot from the outside of the handle then it is to cut a hidden tang slot. Heck, all it takes is running the back of the knife handle partially thru a table saw to make a perfect kerf cut for a half tang.
 
Thanks for advice Mr. A. Michael and Mr. Jiminy,

As far as I know there is no one making or designing half-tang. Thats because I'm a weird person ;) . You know everybody starts from stock removal then tries to forge, I started form forging to knife making and this piece is my first stock removal :grumpy: . I sometimes try a borax salt-bath :barf: , quench D2 in oil or water, etch some in strange acid mixes, this goes on and on :D :) .
But for this example this was a necessity as I now want to apply a mosaic pin and the stick tang will be too narrow for my pins and my stock left is not enough long to full-tang. I wish I have drawn out the tang to the lenght on the forge but it's too late now. Thanks guys...


Best wishes
Emre Kipmen
 
I like the design second from the bottom. I've made several half tangs. but I do them the full width of the handle material, just shorter; I just slit the handle material half way toward the butt. I've seen that done on some really old knives. And I of course, like "old".

And now for....

A HIGHJACK!!

Well, sort of... I'm posting this here because it's for you. Your package is to leave tomorrow ( I hope) for Turkey; here's what's inside. I'm just hoping it's not to much money to mail. I'm not going to insure it so that should help. If it's too much, I may have to take out some stuff. :( There's lots of good stuff here for you to play with including some Axis and Fallow deer antler! :)
emre1.jpg
 
Oh man, they're sweet. I would search them for a century here. :)

Just to be sure: If you are paying the mail just dont be so generous and take out some stuff, but if I will pay dont worry I can handle. I am too excited...


I found some interesting wood here also, some olive burl, mastic wood etc. But they are newly cut and I have to slice them, sticker and wait them to dry, I guess for a year or so. I hope when they are dried I can send you some and also a couple of my knives. I think one year later I wont be a novice bladesmith no more and sell some knives :D ...

Thanks for everything,

Best wishes
Emre Kipmen
 
I am new here and don't know if this is the place to post this but if anyone can help me out or direct me to where I should post this would be a great help.

I am looking for information on how to stabailize wood for handles. What to use and how it can be done and what would be needed for such a task.

Again forgive me if I am not in the right place. This is my first post on your fine forum.

Fish
 
jiminy said:
Why not grind the top of the tang down some and make it a hidden tang? Then you could use any handle design that you like. You don't need any special equipment to make a slot for a hidden tang ...as it only needs to be 'exact' where the blade exits the handle. Presto!
Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly!
 
gBlade said:
I am new here and don't know if this is the place to post this but if anyone can help me out or direct me to where I should post this would be a great help.

I am looking for information on how to stabailize wood for handles. What to use and how it can be done and what would be needed for such a task.

Again forgive me if I am not in the right place. This is my first post on your fine forum.

Fish
Click to expand...
Up at the top of the list of threads, there's a heading called "Forum Tools, click that, and you'll see "post a new thread, click on that and post away. You'd be starting your own thread about this subject then.
I would suggest a search first, as this topic has been done hundreds of times.
Welcome to BFC, Shoptalk. Enjoy!
 
Oh my!!! You won't believe what it costs to get 25lbs. to Turkey!!! (I got it mailed today...) Emre I'm just kidding but truthfully it was $39.00 to send this UNINSURED and it still is going to take six weeks + to get there!! Chase said it could go priority for just $87.00!! So, don't look for this for a while but it has some cool wood in it. I put "wood for art projects" on the customs slip. No value, so you should'nt have to pay anything..... Here's a pic of your package leaving. The postal guy holding it is my friend Chase. He mails all my packages here....

regards, mitch

emre3.jpg
 
Mitch,

You are a true friend. I couldnt thought anyone would do this kind of favor without even knowing him personally. I am a bit emotional right now.

Remember, you are always welcome here, I wish you can visit someday...

Best wishes
Emre
 
be careful who you invite!!! I think I could learn to like Turkey!! Anyway, the package is a longgggggggggg way from being there! Six weeks plus?? !!! and NO insurance; it's all I could afford. That seems like a long time to me. I should mail you the shipping reciept I guess, just in case the authorities ask for documentation.... but IF it gets there! cool! It's worth the risk. Keep me posted as to how it works out. :)

your friend,
mitch (anvilring)
 
galadduin said:
Mitch,

You are a true friend. I couldnt thought anyone would do this kind of favor without even knowing him personally. I am a bit emotional right now.

Remember, you are always welcome here, I wish you can visit someday...

Best wishes
Emre
Click to expand...
I want to add to what you said about Mitch. A few weeks back I posted a question to him about pistachio wood. He had no idea who i was but he offered to send me a piece of wood - no charge!. That in itself is a wonderful thing to do. I was even more shocked when i got the wood. It wasnt a small sample. it was a piece big enough to do 3 or 4 knives, HE also included some die and 2 small samples of died wood so i could see the colors i could get. When emailed him back to thank him and offered to send him something in return he would have nothing to do with it. He is probably the most generous, unselfsh person I have ever had the pleasure to deal with. I hope I get a chance to meet him someday so I can shake his hand and thank him in person. Thanks Mitch, your one of a kind.


Michael
 
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