Handle finishes

S

sepulchre

Joined
Jul 23, 2014
Messages
3
Hello,

I'm about to make a handle for my first knife and was curious. I see that True Oil is used a lot but do many of you use linseed oil? Or what about shellac?

Tia,
Ken
 
True Oil is actually linseed oil .Differences are the type and amount of driers. Linseed oil both oxidizes and polymerizes over time .Application should be generous , wait for a while then rub off excess. This leaves a thin coat .Dry for a few days , repeat to give thickness wanted . Coating will harden in time . Brownells ha s finishes meant for rifles .These may be made of various mixes but will be suitable for knives.Read descriptions carefully.
 
Here is my opinion for what it's worth. I used to build rifles and refinish stocks for fun and I used 'French polish" , oil rubbed ( GB LINSPEED, Danish, Teac and similar) Tru Oil and the last time I used polyurethane satin wet sanded twice and rubbed out with rottenstone but I avoid all finishes if I can on my knives. Any finish will change color eventually and some get brittle or checked from ultraviolet light. Knife scales are small and so we can afford really hard and really beautiful wood so I usually buy exotic hardwood and sand to 600 grit and polish to a warm glow. I grudgingly put some paste wax on some of them but nothing on Arizona Desert Ironwood and Cocobolo. I have just today finished a piece of Afzelia wood brought by my customer for scales by rubbing in "Zap-a-gap" brand of CA glue four times and wet sanding in between to fill the grain and provide a hard surface for a light buffing. I used stabilized scales when I have them. Tru oil makes a nice finish but why don't you try finishing your wood and buffing without a finish first. If you don't like that then sand it down and coat it with whatever. If your wood is too soft for just polishing then maybe you should look for another piece of wood to put on your project that will stand up to hard use and buffing. That or have it stabilized. I make knives with California Buckeye Burl but I always tell the client that the wood is relatively light and soft for knives...but beautiful. You will get many other opinions. Everyone has a favorite finish...try them all.
 
What handle material are you using?
That makes a big difference.
I wondered and asked about shellac before.
Someone pointed out that shellac doesn't like water(moisture/sweat etc) and therefore not a good finish on a knife handle
 
Just a shout out for Watco Danish Oil. Been using TruOil....liking it alot but it's too thick, IMHO. The Danish oil is thinner, penetrates better.
 
Shellac doesn't like heat very much and alcohol dissolves it. I wouldn't put it on a knife. It wears easy and is so thin there isn't much protection. Pretty finish though...
 
samuraistuart said:
Just a shout out for Watco Danish Oil. Been using TruOil....liking it alot but it's too thick, IMHO. The Danish oil is thinner, penetrates better.
Click to expand...

Thin it a bit with mineral spirits and it will make a big difference. It will require about a dozen coats with ~600 grit sanding/tack in between, but the results are much better than straight Tru Oil imo.
 
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