- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 16,030
Handle finishing grits
- Thread starter Outdoor Gear Dad
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 16,030
My process is to grind pins flush then do the perimeter on a horizontal grinder. A regular platen or wheel is fine too. Take the perimeter to 220 grit no matter what, I consider it a good start to a clean finish.
After that I might take the perimeter all the way to an A5-A15 belt which can be a near mirror. Watch out for belt bumps if you do. I usually stay at 220 for a working knife.
My next step is to shape the handle on the horizontal grinder, I try not to touch my cleaned up perimeter. 24 grit to 120 grit.
After that I might blend the shape in with a scalloped belt using the top of my KMG as a slack belt, I use 120 and 220 for that. If you touch the metal while working at this angle go back and clean it up on the perimeter.
Hand sand to desired finish, sandblast or hit it lightly with a fine scotchbrite belt. I really like sanding sponges to knock down sharp corners like you can get on the front of scales.
After that I might take the perimeter all the way to an A5-A15 belt which can be a near mirror. Watch out for belt bumps if you do. I usually stay at 220 for a working knife.
My next step is to shape the handle on the horizontal grinder, I try not to touch my cleaned up perimeter. 24 grit to 120 grit.
After that I might blend the shape in with a scalloped belt using the top of my KMG as a slack belt, I use 120 and 220 for that. If you touch the metal while working at this angle go back and clean it up on the perimeter.
Hand sand to desired finish, sandblast or hit it lightly with a fine scotchbrite belt. I really like sanding sponges to knock down sharp corners like you can get on the front of scales.
My process is really a 2 day process.
I take my wood handles to 400 grit on the grinder- then start the process of hand sanding. I go back to 220 then up to 600 grit.
I then oil the handles with a thin coat of Danish oil and hand buff. I let this sit overnight. I then come back and wipe and buff with a microfiber towel, but it has usually soaked in and opened the wood grain slightly ( very minimal on stabilized wood)
I then take 400 grit that I mist with water and "wet sand" the finish. Work back up to 800/1000 grit. Then buff on felt wheel then soft cotton wheel with a dab of polish.
I use this method every time and works well with all types of hard and exotic wood.
PICS below in my IG:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHBXeMUjoWw/?igshid=16c8ha0p62rm0
I take my wood handles to 400 grit on the grinder- then start the process of hand sanding. I go back to 220 then up to 600 grit.
I then oil the handles with a thin coat of Danish oil and hand buff. I let this sit overnight. I then come back and wipe and buff with a microfiber towel, but it has usually soaked in and opened the wood grain slightly ( very minimal on stabilized wood)
I then take 400 grit that I mist with water and "wet sand" the finish. Work back up to 800/1000 grit. Then buff on felt wheel then soft cotton wheel with a dab of polish.
I use this method every time and works well with all types of hard and exotic wood.
PICS below in my IG:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHBXeMUjoWw/?igshid=16c8ha0p62rm0
Fred Siimes
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2020
- Messages
- 46
I took my last one to 2000 for the first time. Much 'grippier' surface on curly birch. Due to lack of equipment it was dry sanded to 120 and soaked in oil bath, then 240, oil again (not nearly as much), 400+oil, 600+oil, 1000+oil, then wet sanding 1500 and 2000+oil. I use Cleansol in between dry sanding steps to get the black stains from brass, bronze, etc. out before oiling again. Wood must be oiled for Cleansol to work, in my experience. Last oil application after sanding is hand applied instead of the bath, and rubbing it vigorously with a clean rag while it dries makes it somewhat reflective. This is how I will continue from now on.
Fred
Fred