Handle Finishing Options: Why Linseed Oil?

mhutch said:
. . .So it looks to me like that data supports the idea that BLO really is a pretty bad choice if moisture resistance is a priority. Wax, on the other hand, is looking pretty good. . .
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The data does seem to support Flexner's table. I didn't go through all of the numbers from the Fed pub to see which of the 91 finishes tested was the worst. The reason I highlighted paraffin in my post was that they did say it was the best. However, paraffin is also very soft (eg. does not last).

mhutch said:
. . .On another note, since BLO alone had better water resistance than BLO mixed with mineral spirits, I wonder if that means that the thicker surface film built up by plain BLO is the cause of the increased moisture resistance.
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Now you have me curious. There are separate sets of coverage figures for one, two, and three coats.


Bob
 
mhutch said:
It's probably too much for me to post pics of an entire chapter but one of the things Mr. Flexner discusses is the idea of finish penetration. According to him, none of those finishes really penetrate much at all. It's the pore-sealing that gives the finish its protective properties. By saturating the entire surface and forming a continuous film the finish creates a layer between moisture and the wood. At least, that's my understanding from reading.
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Yes - the pore filling is the key. Some woods are more porous and so BLO is more effective. Still, I think they are referred to as "penetrating" finishes though as you note that's misleading. In my non scientific analyzed experience - once the pores are filled there is little gain from more surface application.

Ray
 
Square_peg said:
I've used tallow on my boots for a couple winters. It was great on the leather but destroyed the stitching. It's slightly acidic.
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Funny, I've never had any trouble with the stitching.... been about six years I've been using it. I've heard that acidity claim before, but I've never put much stock in it - it seems too much the sort of thing a salesman would tell you.

Either way, the heat gun method works with commercial paste dressing too, just have to get the paraffin based stuff a bit hotter. Some would say that it smells better too! :D
 
Square_peg said:
I've done a number of handles with Formby's Tung Oil (a wiping varnish). I apply it after several coats of BLO. It does provide a more water resistant finish plus I like the look. I've recently used some Tung/Citrus 50/50. It makes a nice finish but it's slow to cure and slow to build up. It's probably a better finish than the Formby's but it's a coats and more waiting. I can re-coat with Formby's the next day. The 50/50 takes several days to cure.
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How do you like the feel of a varnished handle? I've finished saw handles with wiping varnishes before and it definitely doesn't feel quite as much like raw wood as linseed oil. But the wiping varnish I used is Waterlox and I put at least a few coats on. If there's a wiping varnish that still feels good like an oiled handle and is easy to repair then it might be worth playing with.
 
mhutch said:
How do you like the feel of a varnished handle?
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I really like the feel of Formby's on the haft. It's much grippier than BLO. Some say that varnish will raise a blister more than BLO but I haven't noticed any blistering. My hands aren't as calloused as they were when I was younger but I'm still calloused. These days I often wear very thin grippy gloves for axe work but a couple years ago I was mostly gloveless and blisterless.

One thing about BLO, it nourishes old dried out wood very well. And old dry haft sucks it up and you can feel the wood gaining it's strength back. Sand an old haft, brush on 4 coats of BLO (thicker coats by brush) and that haft is sound again. Then apply Formby's or 50/50 tung for the grip and water resistance. That's what I like.
 
My only complaint on varnished or lacquered handles is they get slick when it's hot and sweaty(they all do regardless). I used to smear sap on handles for that reason. That will last for a couple hours but there are probably better solutions.
 
garry3 said:
My only complaint on varnished or lacquered handles is they get slick when it's hot and sweaty(they all do regardless). I used to smear sap on handles for that reason. That will last for a couple hours but there are probably better solutions.
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Neoprene tape is an excellent solution. I like that it sticks to itself so can be removed from the handles without damage or residue. Can be colorful for locating your tool in the brush. Stretches tightly to follow contours. Last through a surprising amount of use. AND - makes for a very secure grip.

As seen on the chopper in this photo - I could have done a nicer job of applying it. :rolleyes:





Ray
 
Square_peg said:
One thing about BLO, it nourishes old dried out wood very well. And old dry haft sucks it up and you can feel the wood gaining it's strength back. Sand an old haft, brush on 4 coats of BLO (thicker coats by brush) and that haft is sound again. Then apply Formby's or 50/50 tung for the grip and water resistance. That's what I like.
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You are so right! I did scales from an old hickory axe handle for a knife (using the shoulder area of the handle) and I used BLO on it. The wood has now a second life. Hickory and BLO are going great together IMO. That's why I use BLO for hickory only. For other woods I use Tung Oil.
 
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I use mostly 100% tung oil because I bought a big bottle of it years ago. I finally absorbed the wisdom of others: apply thin coats, wipe off excess, dry in sunlight. I've heard that UV light cures tung oil, and that seems to be true. What took days sitting in the garage takes hours in bright sunlight.

I also use Tru Oil sometimes, and it is easier and seems to work well. I'm thinking by the article above it is an oil/varnish mix.
 
rjdankert said:
The data does seem to support Flexner's table. I didn't go through all of the numbers from the Fed pub to see which of the 91 finishes tested was the worst. The reason I highlighted paraffin in my post was that they did say it was the best. However, paraffin is also very soft (eg. does not last).


Now you have me curious. There are separate sets of coverage figures for one, two, and three coats.


Bob
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It does seem to be all about film thickness. I read another study done by an amateur years ago that directly correlated moisture resistance to film thickness and everything I have read since seem to confirm it. I believe that study was in "The Traditional Bowyers Bible Volume One" if I am not mistaken.
 
RayseM said:
Neoprene tape is an excellent solution. I like that it sticks to itself so can be removed from the handles without damage or residue. Can be colorful for locating your tool in the brush. Stretches tightly to follow contours. Last through a surprising amount of use. AND - makes for a very secure grip.

As seen on the chopper in this photo - I could have done a nicer job of applying it. :rolleyes

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Ray
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Is it re-useable and come on and off easily?
I am not a knife guy but that top one is a looker.
 
garry3 said:
Is it re-useable and come on and off easily?
I am not a knife guy but that top one is a looker.
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Yes the neoprene tape comes off easily. It is not an adhesive back - it simply grips tightly to itself. Would not reuse unless I had no other option but in a pinch it would certainly regrip to itself, if only more temporary.

The bottom knife is a Bill Siegle chopper. The top knife is a Khurkri - model called Manakamana from Himalayan Imports here on BF. Both very fine workers.


Ray
 
Yeah, you wanna find out why we don't use varnish or lacquer for axe handles?

Go find a nice, shiny piece of varnished wood.

Run you hand along it, back and forth, back and forth. Make sure you stop before the inevitable blister pops and you get blister juice everywhere...
 
Sounds like the bottom line is if you're caring for the handle you should be in good shape regardless of the product. Keep water from sitting on it and keep it oiled. Come to think of it, the same can be said for the head as well.
 
Here's a video that you may like. As the man explains, it is a combination of linseed oil and low viscosity cyanoacrylate (super glue). While he is using this technique on a lathe, it could easily be used to finish wood of all shapes. I'm going to try it on a piece that I turned on my drill press.
 
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