handle finishing ??

A

Angus McGunnigl

Joined
May 22, 2002
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1,485
I'm going to finish my first handle this week and was wondering about the handle finish.

I'm going to use some thinned down (McLCosky)spar varnish(it's what I've got on hand)

Has anyone used this before? I use it on outdoor furniture and it's pretty tough.
 
I use Tung Oil primarily, some Teak Oil but I'm sure thinned out it will work fine. Thin coats, let soak and set, rub out with fine steel wool, repeat until satisfied. Good luck!
 
Spar varnish will make a fine handle finish. Dunk the entire handle in the can. I like to leave mine in there for 5 or so minutes. Allow to drain. Wipe thoroughly. Literally try to wipe it all off. Then, finish normally for a 2nd coat of varnish. Light sanding, clean, coat.
 
Kinda sneaks up you, doesn't it Angus? While the finish cures, it's time to start planning the next one. Don't forget to show us pics!
 
If you ask six people how to to get a good finish on a wooden knife handle (or gun stock etc) you'll get seven answers. Your approach is a fine approach.

I like a penetrating hardening oil. I use boiled linseed oil. It is also commonly used on gun stocks, fence posts, doors and decks as well as dirt floors.

I like it because it is in the wood, and there is nothing to flake off like a varnish.

I hate polyurethane on a knife handle, feels dreadful.

I sand up to 1000 grit, rub the oil in, wipe it off. Then I rub it on and wipe it off everyday for a week. Then after it has hardened a while I hand buff it. This sounds like a lot of effort, but it goes very very quickly. I usually do several at a time and I don't even bother to sit down to do it. This might not work well on oak due to the grain, but it is lovely on most woods.

handle3.jpg
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
I hate polyurethane on a knife handle, feels dreadful.
Click to expand...

Agreed, almost anything but polyurethane.

I've gotten nice finishes on walnut and curly maple, using Danish oil. I used to strip the finish off some of my guitar necks and oil them with plain tung oil. In both cases I more or less followed Nathan's approach. This gives a very "organic", smooth-but-not-slippery finish. It does take a while to apply and require minor maintenance, but I like it a lot. I suspect spar varnish, or minwax wood hardener for that matter, would be more durable, but how it feels will be a subjective thing.

When very low maintenance and high durability are a priority, I'm pretty well convinced that micarta, diamondwood, stabilized wood etc. is the way to go.
 
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