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Handle Glues (it seems apparent)
- Thread starter sesimmons
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2003
- Messages
- 2,357
Look for the thread "Glue Wars". It's got a lot of very abusive testing of several glues. Couple of things I remember:
1. Surface prep is way more important than glue choice. Sandblasting is best.
2. Devcon did not do well (I'm being polite here).
3. A couple of odd choices that were put in as bad examples actually did very well.
After reading that I'm currently using Loctite E-120HP (I think that's the right spelling) and Loctite Extreme. Other folks are very fond of some ultra quick bonding anaerobic Loctite glues.
I also want to get a sandblaster. In the mean time I'm cleaning carefully, handling with nitrile gloves and using rough sandpaper just before gluing.
1. Surface prep is way more important than glue choice. Sandblasting is best.
2. Devcon did not do well (I'm being polite here).
3. A couple of odd choices that were put in as bad examples actually did very well.
After reading that I'm currently using Loctite E-120HP (I think that's the right spelling) and Loctite Extreme. Other folks are very fond of some ultra quick bonding anaerobic Loctite glues.
I also want to get a sandblaster. In the mean time I'm cleaning carefully, handling with nitrile gloves and using rough sandpaper just before gluing.
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2006
- Messages
- 1,124
Didnt acra glass do well?
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2003
- Messages
- 2,357
Maybe I should have noted that the Loctite E120HP is an industrial epoxy.
I use JB Weld. It's a bitch at clean up, but literaly harder than most of the materials going into the handle.
Jim L.
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2001
- Messages
- 3,824
Since I went to Accurglass a couple years ago I haven't had a problem. That said I never had a big problem with the Devcon eigther, as long as I used it as a seal and not to hold things together. For a hard working knife with handle slabs theres nothing better than Loveless or corby fastners. As long as pin stock is piened slightly they work well too. As noted, cleanlyness is first and formost, and a good rough surface helps a lot too. As does drilling small shallow holes and such for the epoxy to grab onto. When doing full tange knives I like to put a bit of a hollow grind in the middle of the tange to make the epoxy line a bit thicker in the middle to help hold also.
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2001
- Messages
- 8,968
here's the results of the test, http://www.mickleyknives.com/downloads/adhesives.xls
and he sells the loctite acrylics at www.midwestkms.com
the gorilla glue did very well, but was not recommended for oily woods and was a little messy, the anaerobics don't work well on porous woods, 2 part epoxies seem to work when you get a good one, like the golfsmith or the E-120.
and he sells the loctite acrylics at www.midwestkms.com
the gorilla glue did very well, but was not recommended for oily woods and was a little messy, the anaerobics don't work well on porous woods, 2 part epoxies seem to work when you get a good one, like the golfsmith or the E-120.
Another vote for JB weld, but surface prep is the real key. Industrial grade epoxy will do the trick for most jobs. Use plenty of it after the surfaces have been roughed up a bit, then clamp for a full night until the handle is rock solid on the blade. Some people have had decent results with epoxy from the local dollar store, so you don't have to spend a tub full of dough to get a good bond.
I know a lot of people use Devcon II and think it's great. They've never had a failure. I used to use it all the time myself. I tested it and it was always the first to fail. I threw away 7 unopened, new packages after my tests.
I thought JB Weld would do better in the testing. It failed earlier than many when bonding wood to metal. I don't know why, it just did. It's good stuff, there is just better stuff to work with IMHO.
I continue to use 2 part epoxy when bonding wood to metal but I use the private label stuff I sell now (not a plug, just stating a fact). I believe it to be the same as golf shafting epoxy.
I use Loctite 324 or Loctite Speedbonder 330 when bonding man made material to metal.
Surface prep made the most difference in performance.
Acraglass is excellent also.
I thought JB Weld would do better in the testing. It failed earlier than many when bonding wood to metal. I don't know why, it just did. It's good stuff, there is just better stuff to work with IMHO.
I continue to use 2 part epoxy when bonding wood to metal but I use the private label stuff I sell now (not a plug, just stating a fact). I believe it to be the same as golf shafting epoxy.
I use Loctite 324 or Loctite Speedbonder 330 when bonding man made material to metal.
Surface prep made the most difference in performance.
Acraglass is excellent also.
I ALWAYS use a mechanical bond. I prefer Brownell's Acruglas (I use the original) but only depend on it, or any other epoxy, for sealing, filling any voids in drill holes and for locking the threads of bolts. If not using bolts I drill pass through holes in tang; mill out to an adequate depth in underside of scales using a small roughing mill (that leaves ridges about the perimeter of the milled trench). Using your favorite epoxy in this manner will provide a strong mechanical bond.
My favorite way to contour the hilt end of micarta scales is to super glue the two scales together (a drop here and there). I contour both scales as they were one. When finished I use a sharp knife with edge placed between scales and rap with a hammer on the blade spine. The bond pops loose and I have two separate scales again. DON'T try that with wood scales. I have not found any epoxy or otherwise that will reliably bond to micarta.
rlinger
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My favorite way to contour the hilt end of micarta scales is to super glue the two scales together (a drop here and there). I contour both scales as they were one. When finished I use a sharp knife with edge placed between scales and rap with a hammer on the blade spine. The bond pops loose and I have two separate scales again. DON'T try that with wood scales. I have not found any epoxy or otherwise that will reliably bond to micarta.
rlinger
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