Handle material?

Rusty

Rusty

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Per Danny in Japan's "Combat Khukuri" thread, both horn and wood have their drawbacks.

In dry humidity, horn cracks.
In wet weather wood swells.

Granted, a little extra care goes a long ways, but...

If you had to replace a handle what would you use for a permanent, rest of your life fix?

I'd look at stabilized wood. At cured bone, really well cured horn, other natural substances.

I would not use micarta or other synthetics.

To me, the handle is a bridge beween forged steel and my hand. There's just something about natural ( formerly living ) material that allows the bridge to work so the knife and I become a unity.

As one person put it stainless steel is "soul-less steel". Stamped out blanks and CNC mass made knives don't have the special feeling for me. Nor do man-made synthetic or metal handles.

Epoxies are fine by me, though.

Enough of my mystical meanderings.

What turns you on for khuk handles?
 
I'd have to say a villager-style horn. Put one on the Chiruwa AK and seem to get alot more grip. Will I do the same to the Pen Kinfe? Prolly :D

Brian
 
Tape. :D



From what I've gathered from folks here... If I only had one knife. The natural hand oils and fried chicken grease that I got on it by daily use would protect the handle.

I like wood, I like horn. Not a big fan of bone or aluminum though.
 
I like wood and horn myself, and agree that manufactured knives don't have the same feel.

The only exception I'd give to that, in my mind, is spydercos, and they're still mass produced, nothign special there, but the huge ends I've seen Sal go to to fix problems, and real care he's shown to put out the best product possible for the price definitely give me somewaht of aa feeling of him putting something of himself into every run, even if machines are making them.

But in my mind, nothing beats natural handle materials, high carbon steel blades, etc.
 
What about Osage Orange??? Uncle Bill's recent request for antler tips reminded me of a question: Has anybody ever sent any wood over to BirGorka and had them send back Khuks made with it? I have always thought some with well cured Osage Orange or Black Walnut handles would be awesome.
 
I prefer wood. It can be sealed so that it won't swell, but I have a Khukuri from GK that has some shrunken wood - despite a good finish. I doubt that it was seasoned properly for a gas heated Midwestern home.
European oak is hard and water resistant - don't they use it for beer kegs? For looks and function, I would prefer something like cocobolo, rosewood, or kingwood.
 
Originally posted by hollowdweller
Has anybody ever sent any wood over to BirGorka and had them send back Khuks made with it?
Click to expand...
Simpler, cheaper to contact the Sisco
for a replacement handle on a khuk
that you already have in hand.
 
Originally posted by Rusty
What turns you on for khuk handles?
Click to expand...

Well cured hardwood. Stabilized wood is too much like micarta with its resin filling although it is pretty.
Stacked leather is another favorite of mine although I wouldn't want it on a khuk handle.
A nice piece of curved stag would also be something I would like. Most bone isn't heavy enough for a khuk handle IMO and there isn't much bone a full curved handle could be made of although bone is also another favorite material.
 
Since noone answered, am I correct in my recollection?

Originally posted by Yvsa
No!



Bruise, it's not tape.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

If I may recall, a fossilized bone of a sea-mammal penis? ;):D;)
 
Hibuke,

I don't think it's necessarily fossilized, but I think the rest is correct. Walrus.
 
You're both correct. Oosic is the penile bone of a walrus, and exists in various colors and densities depending upon whether the specimen is of recent origin or undergoing various degrees of fossilization. It polishes up like bone.
 
I have only owned one HI Khuk. It (guess was is in order) a 16.5" WWII horn handle.

I took it for a test against a stabilised 8/4 plank of maple.....
Good news....the blade did 5 hacks, deepest being 5/8"...bad news...handle cracked from the brass fore guard to the first ring in the handle, and the brass guard has a full length spinal stress line.

Gonna order a wood handle next, and NOT do that test EVER again!!!
 
Did you look at the guard(sic, it's a bolster) before you did this? Because I'd bet your "stress line" is merely where the brass was brazed together. THese things aren't milled from solid bress, they're folded/bent aroudn the knife, and brazed closed.
 
JJW, prefer wood, myself.

However, the khuk should have been able to handle that test without damage to the horn handle. When you said 'stabilized', I assume you mean 'seasoned', right? Not that seasoned maple

The good news is that, if the crack isn't TOO bad, application(s) of thin superglue, followed by sanding of very fine grit (2000+) will get it almost back to normal. Buffing with tripoli compound afterwards WILL get it back to normal.

Depends on how much of a do-it-yourselfer you are.

Best of luck, and don't let this experience put you off. Uncle Bill will make it right, if necessary, I'm sure.
 
It's baculum, strictly speaking. Look that oneup in your Funk and Wagnal's.
 
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