Handle Modifications

J

Jebadiah_Smith

Joined
Jul 28, 2004
Messages
878
Has anyone ever used any kind of grip or tennis tape on a khuk handle? I dont really care about the looks, just a nice, secure feel.

Has anyone ever added a lanyard hole? It seems like this would be OK if the hole were away from the tang.

And the bonus questions: Is a cold blue best applied to a satin or mirror finished surface? And, would matte black rustoleum be a more durable finish than a cold blue?

Yes indeed, one of my khuks will soon be getting very ugly...
 
People have used tape, and cold blue, citrus washes and other stains.



munk
 
I think a lanyard hole is feasible, but I wouldn't put a lanyard on a chopper. Could have nasty consequences if the handle got away from you.
 
raghorn said:
I think a lanyard hole is feasible, but I wouldn't put a lanyard on a chopper. Could have nasty consequences if the handle got away from you.
Click to expand...

There ya go talkin' about me again Rag... ;)


Rag is right...no lanyard. There are two kinds of Khukri users...those who have lost control of one and those who haven't *yet*.
 
Alright, scratch the lanyard. I guess its better for it to fall away than to sling around your wrist? Thanks for the input.
 
Cold blues can give widely varying results.

Typically, rust bluing is done on about a 320 grit finish, so satin is what i would recommend.

Tom
 
I've used something called 'Extreme Tape' on an old beater (non-HI) khuk. It's basically very stretchy tape that seems to bond with itself. Makes for a very secure grip.

I asked the same question about mirror vs. satin finish for bluing. The consensus was the satin would blue better, because there was more surface area (the micro-scratches) to react with the bluing agent.

I have used the Birchwood-Casey Perma-Blue product with pretty good success. Just make sure the surface is clean and VERY warm. Heat gun works well.
 
Aardvark said:
Heat gun works well.
Click to expand...
Or just run it under very hot water until it dries instantly when removed or with just a slight wipe with a clean paper towel. That's what I use.
 
Haven't some of the guys used the racket ball tape, the kind they use to wrap the racket handles with?
Seems to me that someone mentioned it once.:confused: And when it wore out they just rewrapped it with some more, seemed like it was fairly long lasting though.

I also think I read just the other day where someone had used paracord and then varnished or epoxied it to seal and harden it. That would substantially increase the handles size though I would think.
 
Jebadiah_Smith said:
And, would matte black rustoleum be a more durable finish than a cold blue?

Yes indeed, one of my khuks will soon be getting very ugly...
Click to expand...


Jebadiah, the rustoleum would not last on the knife. It is very durable normally for something that say just has to sit outside, but won't stand up to any kind of impact without peeling off pretty quickly. I found this out when painting both a 110 lb. anvil and a bench vise with black semi-gloss paint.

In those instances I painted it with a heavy duty rust resistant paint that also contains an epoxy compound for strength. Benjamin Moore makes a particularly good one (I can get the # if you like), that's about $18 a quart. This stuff is very strong and is resistant to impact and chipping. I have pounded metal over the painted horn of the anvil and there is very little paint damage. With rustoleum the paint job would have been ruined.

If you really wanted to do it right and didn't mind spending some $, then sending it to Robar for a Roguard finish would work, or have a shop powder coat it. That would give you a very nice even finish, but would cost more that you paid for the knife I'm sure.

As for the cold blue, getting the metal warm before bluing is the key to good finish. I think the satin finish would be a bit easier to blue and take the finish more uniformly. I always use the cold blue that Brownell's recommends, with the last one I bought a couple of years ago called their Oxpho Blue. I think they have a newer version now that they recommend.

Regards,

Norm
 
If you can't find the extreme tape, I have used "underwrap", the stuff that you wrap your ankles with before taping up. Can be found at any pharmacy or shop that has good sports equipment. Its stretchy and clingy but does not get "welded" to a handle like regular tape. I put it on a tramontina machete handle and its very comfortable. I haven't tried to take it off yet.
 
cliff355 said:
I have tried various cold blues, but recently applied some "Blue Wonder" from Brownells. This is the best stuff so far and it apparently adheres to the blade as a surface coating rather than cause the blade itself to color. In some cases you get a color case hardened appearance. This stuff comes with cleaner, blueing solution and developer and the process takes about 10 min. to apply and another 12 hours to develope/adhere. You have to "warm" the blade up a bit with a torch, but it is not tough or messy to put on at all.
Click to expand...

"Blue Wonder". That's the stuff. Brownell's seems to tout a new cold blue every couple of years. The Oxpho Blue was very good, but I have heard this stuff is even better.

Regards,

Norm
 
I put some of that self sticking rubbery tape on the handle of a very beat up AK and it works great. It's expensive for tape..about 5 bucks. But hey, it's five bucks! I bought mine at Wal Mart in the electrical tape area.

Jake
 
Jebadiah_Smith said:
Extreme Tape sounds interesting, where can I get some?
Click to expand...
I noticed some in the plumbing aisle of the local builders' supply.
Under a different name I think.
Ask for tape used to seal pipe leaks.
It was on a hanging card display rather than on a shelf.

~
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Yvsa said:
Haven't some of the guys used the racket ... tape,
Click to expand...
I've seen it on grips & it does seem to work well,
durable but not permanent.

~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<>call me 'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-TWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
The only mod that I ALWAYS make on my new khuks is to grind down the upper point on the pommel. I round it out so that it no longer bites into my palm when chopping, then I buff it to the point that the finish is identical to the rest of the handle. I leave the lower point on the pommel alone. It also gives it a very cool (and unique) look IMO, but my reason for doing it is practical, not aesthetic.

I know that the khukuri design has been evolving for thousands of years so you'd think they would have reached perfection by now, but I just can't ignore the blisters I get from that point on the pommel after lengthy chopping. So I consider my small mod to be the final evolutionary step.
 
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