Handle Pins Strength

blgoode

blgoode

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
7,133
I use Loveless bolts to fasten slab handles when strength is required. I use Mosaics when beauty is needed ;)

All have 2 ton epoxy and holes through the tang to allow slab to slab glue contact.

Would mosaics / epoxy hold up on say a 13" overall chopper / camp knife with hard use?

Thanks in advance
 
Yup. As long as everything is prepared right, it ain't going nowhere. Have you had to take some handles off one that you've screwed up? (I've got good practice with that.) :D
 
Burchtree said:
Yup. Have you had to take some handles off one that you've screwed up?:D
Click to expand...

Hey...dont say that! ;) You'll jinx me ;)
What I am doing is making sure everything is flat with a 60 grit belt. However, on hard woods this still feels smooth to the touch so I use the side of the belt to make notches where the glue will go. What should I be roughing the inside slab with? I havent had anything fail but asking about this wont hurt.

Thanks...
 
Rough em up on the sides and use a good slow set epoxy and they will do real well.Lots of tang holes for "glue pins",like you said (they also lighten the handle).It takes glue to hold it together, so don't squeeze the slabs so tight that all the resin is squished out.A gentle tight fit is right for the clamping (most scales that come off have no epoxy left between the tang and scale.)Don't grind the handle so hard that it heats up the epoxy (those rivets can get hot).Its strength will be permanently impaired.Contrary to what some makers will tell you,heat destroys the polymerization of cured resins.They will not cool off and be "good as new".
 
Thanks again! Guess I could mock up a handle and try yto beat the slabs off :D
 
bladsmth said:
Rough em up on the sides and use a good slow set epoxy and they will do real well.Lots of tang holes for "glue pins",like you said (they also lighten the handle).It takes glue to hold it together, so don't squeeze the slabs so tight that all the resin is squished out.A gentle tight fit is right for the clamping (most scales that come off have no epoxy left between the tang and scale.)Don't grind the handle so hard that it heats up the epoxy (those rivets can get hot).Its strength will be permanently impaired.Contrary to what some makers will tell you,heat destroys the polymerization of cured resins.They will not cool off and be "good as new".
Click to expand...

good tip! I haven't used the grinder to shape handles yet, I just use files and sand paper, but I'll keep that in mind when I get to it.
 
I don't like the 2 ton epoxies, because I don't trust them 100%. I use the Acra Glas from Brownell's and have never had a bond failure. That stuff is almost beyond belief when it comes to holding, and you have an hour working time. With the gel, it's a simple 50/50 mix, too. Another nice thing, you can color it, mix it with other materials, or just use it straight, because of the neutral color. It is about the color of light honey and blends well with about any material color, especially natural wood and antler. You probably won't be able to see the glue line. Git it!
 
I'm With John.The commercial epoxies are pretty poor.Use a two part slow set like john uses,or the stuff I get from K&G.It is real thick,has a 1 hour plus pot life,cures in 24 hours,and NEVER fails.It dyes to almost any color with their epoxy dyes.Weigh it on your scale to get the proper mix.
 
I've used Devcon 2Ton for 20+ years without a failure. The only problem I ever had was a batch going bad from the summer heat in my shop, and that was my fault.
Storing in in the house stopped that from occuring again.
 
I have always used 2 ton epoxy for knife handles. I had a handle crack awile ago and had to remove it. That wood came off in pieces. I also had some expeience with the brownell's stuff. A friend and I were glass bedding a rifle barrel and it was very difficult to get apart even with lube. I would say either one works well as long as it's mixed properly and not all squeezed out the sides.

bladsmith: I think I will try the stuff from K&G I always wanted to use some dyed epoxy.

Joe Foster
 
Epoxy alone will hold a handle in place, the pins simply act as shear pins to prevent the epoxy bond shearing on impact. In shear, the pin need not be very substantial.

The only place that I have found Loveless or Corby style bolts essential is on very flexible blades like a 1/16" fillet knife where the blade flex puts a lot of strain on the front of the handle and can break the epoxy free if it is pinned with a plain pin.
 
Get the black,tan,red,and white colorants (I've never needed the blue or yellow).Each bottle has a lifetime supply.A few pinches (Small pinches) of the black will turn a batch coal black.Do the color blending in the resin batch you are mixing.Blend the black and white into tan to get everything from gray to olive brown.Add a bit of red to get muddy brown,etc...When blending colors add the colorant a few pepper grains at a time - A little changes the color a lot.The white can be used for ivory and to get a lighter tone with color mixes.Experimenting is fun - you never quite know what color you will turn up.The best thing about the K&G epoxy is the thickness - its not running all over the place when applying it.It also is a super fill material for oosik or fossil bone with big pores.When the handle is shaped I sand to 400 grit,Blow out all the dust from the pores,put on rubber gloves and rub in a batch of dyed epoxy,work it in real good(I like to use black for contrasting lines and specks) .Wait 1/2 hour (when it starts getting tacky but not setting up yet),and wipe off the excess, getting most of the excess but don't worry about the rest.Let dry a day or two.Re-sand with 400 and then finish to whatever grit you go to.Looks great!
Oh,and store this epoxy in the bottom of the fridge.
 
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