Handle pins

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Fatstrat

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On my 1st project custom USMC knife, I intend to use Imistag handle panels. I've seen the tutorial on putting a handle on a hidden tang knife. Already aquired a Dremel tool stand to aid in inletting the inside of handle panels for the tang.
I understand that the epoxy is more than strong enough to make a sturdy knife handle. But would like to include some small (at least 2, one fore and one aft) brass pins. Mostly just for looks.
Would appreciate some advise on this. Mostly on how to finish the outside flush w/the handle panels w/o damaging them. But a complete "How to" would be of great help. Thanks
 
You may want to post a pic or tracing of you knife. From your other post it sounds like the blade is hidden tang and these handles are used on full tang. I think for your knife you need :Axis Horn Stick Large
Item ID# AXS3 or for less money Winewood-Cylinder 4-1/2"
Item ID# DW102C

If you try to use these handles you will most likely just break them loose pretty easily.
 
I am not able to post pics from my PC (Webtv). But please take a look at eBay #360088690419. This is not the same blade I'm using, but one similiar to it. Mine is used, this one new. But the tang is the same.
Another forum member who gave me the link to the "How to: Hidden tang" tutorial assured me that modern epoxy's were strong enough to secure a handle w/o pins.
No matter, I want to use pins anyway. If for no other reason than cosmetic looks. If they will make the handle stronger, so much the better.
I have sent off for a book on knifemaking (3 weeks ago). Hasn't arrived yet (dang book rate mail).
Please look at the tang on ebay and advise on IF my intended project is possible, how you would do it.
I'm proceeding slowly on this. While awaiting my book, I hoping to gather info here on needed tools, materials and proceedure. As stated before, would like to use Stag handles w/pins. Thanks for your help.
 
The knife is a hidden tang with holes already drilled for the pins. Epoxy should be strong enough, I just add a little gusto with liquid steel and the cost is not much more. The guard you are looking at should work but you need to find a stag roll that is at least 4 1/2" long. You can use shorter if you stack some other materials with it to get a nice handle length. You will need to decide what to do with the butt end. You can use a simple cap unless it is threaded like the one on ebay and in that case you can order a threaded cap.

If there are not holes for the pins you can drill through the handle to the tang and put in 1/2 pins, deep enough for epoxy to hold in place.
 
Thanks for your reply. I truely appreciate your help and patience. Not familiar w/some of the term you use. What is a Stag roll? I was plannng on buying 5" Imistag scales from TKS. Not planning on using a pommel or cap.
What are 1/2 pins? Do they have an item # on TKS website?
How do the rivets on TKS website work?
BTW: My knife book "$50. Knife shop" came in yesterday. Some interesting info on making knife making tools. Not much knife making info.
Can you suggest a better book?
Thanks again. I know what a PITA greenhorns can be. I help people on gun websites.
 
You really cannot use the "scales" on the knife you have. If you picture a set of antlers and you cut a nice round 5" section from that you have a roll, If the end of that section is where it attaches to the head, you have a crown. If you take that roll and cut it into two pieces (usually cutting out a piece in the middle) you have two scales. You can also use a block of wood that is about 5" x 1" x 1.5". After fitting your guard you drill a hole in your handle, fill with glue and slide the tang of the knife into the handle.

1/2 pins are just pins that are short, just long enough to go into the handle and not all the way through. Typically they are about 1/8" diameter.
 
Not to be arguementitive, but curious. Why won't scales work? I plan to inlet the inside of scales for the tang using a Dremel tool. Already purchased a Dremel stand to aid in this. And use pins of some type for looks/added strength. My hope for finished project is to look similiar to this.
http://www.agrussell.com/images/Biggest/KA6376.jpg
 
With wood I would be a little cautions using the slabs, a good hardwood would probably be ok but the interior of stag is very pourous. Although I am not familiar with Imisstag, I would assume it is some sort of plastic. If it is a plastic the glue will probably not hold. Looking at the picture I am sure that is a full tang (the metal tang is the same shape as the handles) not a hidden tang. I would definantly put the pins in and I would plan at least 6, front, middle, back and make sure they are peened to hold the handles together.

You can make the knife the way you describe but alot of questions need to be answered before I would call it sturdy.
 
Pat is correct, that knife is meant to be a hidden tang and the scales are for a full tang knife. Some materials may be inletted without problems however the Imistag is not designed for this application. If used in the manner that you describe the imistag will most likely break or come unglued as soon as you chop or apply any side pressure to the blade. Also the Imistag scales are quite thin and without the 1/8"-1/4" steel tang between them the handle will feel thin. You will be much better off with a roll or taper of any natural horn. http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/images/AXC3_550.jpg This would make a much better handle, just drill and file a slot in the center to accept your tang and pin and epoxy in place... IMHO you will need some type of guard as well. Another option to use your imistag would be to make a frame handled knife. This makes all of your problems go away. You can use the same blade and the imistag but you add a piece of steel that is the same thickness as the tang that has a slot in it that the tang fits in. When you put the tang and the frame together it looks like a full tang. You then epoxy and pin this to your scales.
 
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Pat is correct, that knife is meant to be a hidden tang and the scales are for a full tang knife. Some materials may be inletted without problems however the Imistag is not designed for this aplication. If used in the manner that you describe the imistag will break or come unglued as soon as you chop or apply any side pressure to the blade. Also the Imistag scales are quite thin and without the 1/8"-1/4" steel tang between them the handle will feel thin. You will be much better off with a roll or taper of any natural horn. Another option for you is to make a frame handle. You can use your blade and the imistag, you just need to add another piece of steel. This will set you on your way. http://www.swbladecraft.com/news.asp
 
I am still learning all the wonders of JB Weld, but as the rocket man says I am not sure it will hold up in this case. I am not sure how much force JB Weld will take before it cracks, but the stuff is tough. I would also worry about it bonding with the Imisstag, I have not worked with it so I really dont know is epoxy or JB Weld will bond.
 
Ah, now I'm beginning to see. I think you are right. W/O a ful tang, the Imistag scales would make a rather thin diameter handle. Not to mention not being strong enough. (BTW, Imistag is made of cow bone that has been somehow made to look like stag. According to the text on the AG Russell knife in pic, the handles on it are Imistag).
I assume the tang add-on was hand made. 10 yrs ago when I was working as a welder/sheetmetal fabricator that would've been a piece of cake. I will still look into making one if I can find access to the needed equipment. Or I may just spot weld a couple runners on both sides (top/bottom) of tang.
But as a Plan B, you said a good hardwood might work. I have access to lots of Oak pallet wood.
But as Plan B
 
I have used alot of cow bone and it will glue very well, the inner portion of the bone is not very strong and I would worry about chopping with a knife made like you were thinking.

Here is a link to show the difference between hidden and full tang and another showing the construction using wood slabs and a wood block. I think the block is easier and stronger. and oak pallat should have oak 2x4 so you would have plenty of wood.

If you are going with the slab construction I would suggest using the knotches like he has in the tang and drilling holes in the handle to trap the tang. Just a little more strenght if pins cannot be put through the tang.

I do think you will be happier in the long run with you knife.

http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials.htm

http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials_hiddentangB.htm

http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials_hiddentang1.htm
 
Fatstrat said:
But as a Plan B, you said a good hardwood might work. I have access to lots of Oak pallet wood.
But as Plan B
Click to expand...


Pallets that have been overseas get fumigated with a horrid chemical. Grinding these woods is dangerous. There is no way to know which pallets have been overseas and which have not.

Spend a few bucks to get some wood thats safe.
 
Fiddleback said:
Pallets that have been overseas get fumigated with a horrid chemical. Grinding these woods is dangerous. There is no way to know which pallets have been overseas and which have not.

Spend a few bucks to get some wood thats safe.
Click to expand...

Wow, didn't know that. Thanks for the Heads Up!
 
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