Handle Question

Joined
Jul 1, 2006
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I saw this Endura over at another forum and think it's just beautiful. Question is what method is used in attaching bone or any handle material directly to a stainless folder? It doesn't appear to be inlayed at all. Is it just affixed to the top of the knife? Is scoring involved? What type of glue would be used to do this with? Just curious. Thanks in advance for any replies.

To give credit to the maker, this knife was made by German maker Peter Schlusche.

D2 and Giraffe Bone.

*sweet*

schlusche_endura_02.jpg
 
Good Morning L.I.L.

Not knowing the makers work I can only guess. He may have simply used VHB Tape (double sided, very high bond by 3M) a lot of makers are using that on folder scales now. He also could have used hidden pins along with adhesive, coming through from the inside of the folder scales. Still, I can only guess :confused:

Nice looking folder :thumbup:
 
Hey David thanks for the reply. Could a knife handle like this just be glued to a surface and be sturdy? I guess another thought would be if when you buy handle material is it leveled on the back side? I'm an idiot about this stuff but this knife is just great. Thanks for the response!


http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28845
 
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Dis-similar materials act differently with changes of temperature. If one material shrinks or expands while the other stays put, you might see failure. The tape idea is good because the tape material itself can move without the piece coming apart. If you are going to try an epoxy, scoring the mating surfaces is pretty important to make sure the epoxy can get a firm hold. Good luck.
 
As long as the folder scale NEVER encountered a bump from the side adhesive alone would probably hold it forever. That being said, we both know that isn't going to happen. My understanding is, that's where hidden (or visible) pins come in, and their primary purpose. To help prevent adhesive failure due to lateral shear.

Even though scales may appear to be flat, usually they are not. I always re-surface my handle scale material on the adhesive side. Usually on my mill with just a fuzz pass, removing the minimum amount of material necessary to flatten (there are exceptions to that rule). They can also be flattened with good success and proper procedure on a surface plate using abrasive paper between the 2, or using a good disk grinder.

PB Wilson's info nailed it too :thumbup: :thumbup:



;)
 
Wow, I did a google search on that tape and it's 70 bucks a roll. There's got to be a cheaper way to do it than that. Must be some great stuff.
 
I think epoxy would have peel strength issues when used without any mechanical support. Something like LocTite Depend would probably be a better choice. Blind Pins would also be a good idea.

Jim
 
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