Handling W.I.P. G10 scales

Brian Avila

Brian Avila

Joined
Jan 2, 2011
Messages
1,286
So I got a hold of a S110V Spyderco Mule. I decided that I wanted to help out and add a little W.I.P. for the guys over in the Spyderco forum. I plan on messing around with the mule for EDC so I can test out some type of "super steel" and decide if I will use some S90V or Elmax to make my knives.

I don't know if the thread will get moved but I hope it helps them out and the newer makers here that are curious to how some stuff is done, (Not to mention I hope this pops up during searches).

This is just how I do things in my shop. There are many ways to do things, but this is what works for me. I will update it when I get the different parts done and I am sure I will find bad English as well as need to add clarification info.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1154179-Handling-a-Spyderco-Mule-W-I-P?p=13198694#post13198694

-Brian-
 
Nice thread. Since the hole in the tang is so much larger than the bolt shaft...

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... I would have aligned the bolt so it was nestled against either the front or back of the hole, to reduce the chance of the scales slipping around on the tang before the epoxy sets up. Since the fonts of your scales are so nicely shaped and finished :thumbup:, if one or both scales moves even a couple degrees, it's going to stick out like a sore thumb.
 
That would work. But I wanted it dead center in the tang. Just so happens that's his it looks on that picture.

The corby bolt holes are so close to the size of the bolt the scales only move together, up or down. So I then lined the tang up as close as I could with the pencil lines I had on the scales.

If it was a knife I made and I chose to have big over sized holes, I would have put two 1/16" retention pins in so the scales would not move at all. But it's a factory blade from spyderco and I didn't want to mess with that.
 
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TheWeatherman said:
Yeah, I would agree, they royally screwed up. I probably should have used a different color but what the heck.
Click to expand...

For what it's worth I much prefer the look of natural. Looks especially good (to me) with a complementary liner, green or white g10, or natural micarta being my favorites. I just had two knives made this way and they are beautiful (to me), especially in sun light.

My first handle job years ago was on a Mule. Certainly a great blank to build nice scales off of.

Looking forward to seeing the end result.
 
It does make me feel better. Tell u what. Get a Elmax mule that I can handle and I will trade you
 
Knife is finished... If you are looking for the link to the actual W.I.P. Check the 1st post.

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Thanks for taking a look at the thread. I hope that when newer guys or gals are searching for how to do stuff, that this thread pops up on the search and it helps.
 
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Looks great WM! I love the single fastener and tube. Looks really clean. Actually looks a great deal like the one I did only I used two pins and no tube. I also used red/black micarta, but the shape looks very familiar.

Nice work.
 
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