Hanging a Kelly World's Best/True Temper DB--Failure and Attempted Save

[John Frankl]

So this was my first DB hang. I chose a shorter handle, 32" I believe. The head is marked 3.5 lbs. but it had been ground pretty often and poorly before I ever got it. Then I had to true things up. I'd guess it's now closer to 3.25 lbs.

It was a bit fat in terms of edge geometry, but there was also still plenty of hardened steel available. the dark grey between the light grey body and the shiny new edges shows the depth of the hardness.

The profile was a lot better than the edges. It cleaned up pretty quickly. Bottom

And top

 

[halfaxe]

Looking good. Nice polish on the bits.

 

[John Frankl]

(Thanks halfaxe. Although the head is still 9.5 inches long, it was very fat. I would have liked to leave more of the original patina on, but it was just too fat. Had to work down a lot more than just the edge.)

There was quite a bit of space on either side of the eye, so I decided to do another cross wedge.

But I got a bit too greedy. Even with my oversized hole, the handle cracked pretty badly.

I was contemplating throwing it away, sawing it off and making a couple hammer handles, etc. But then I thought I would try to salvage it.

 

[John Frankl]

I opened up the crack as in the photo above, and filled it with Titebond wood glue then clamped it in the vise. I then cut and drilled two more kerfs for two smaller wedges. They would spread the material more evenly while also clamping the crack in the middle.

Here is the head re-seated, which I also hope puts pressure in the right direction on the repaired crack.

Here it is from the top, complete with ugly hole from drilling out the first wedge.

 

[John Frankl]

Here are the two smaller wedges, which closed things up a bit better, while also distributing stress more evenly than one huge wedge. I was ALOT more careful about not jamming these two in. I hammered lightly, and stopped when they stopped.

I then drove in the three small wedges at 90 degrees and cut them off.

Here it is a after a quick pass over the belt sander to even things out a bit.

And here are a couple random shots of the finished, and I hope salvaged, product.

Please be frank with your thoughts about the integrity of the handle at this point. I feel like I have worked around any pressure or force being exerted on the crack, but I just don't have enough experience to know if this will hold up.

 

[fast14riot]

Looks good. I don't know a whole lot about axes, but I do know a fair bit about wood being under stress and repairs.

First off, you started right by gluing and wedging either side. If properly fitted I would then take some heavy siezing twine and put two very tight constrictor knot under the head. Seal the knots with the BLO or handle treatment of your choice.

That's what I would do, others may say different.


-Xander

 

[John Frankl]

Thanks. Not sure about a constrictor. What do you think about something like a Turk's Head knot worked down till it was really tight?

 

[Operator1975]

Frankl - I like what you are doing - the multi wedge scheme has my attention. I have a couple questions - these are not meant to piss off, overly critique, etc - but to open up discussion. Please do not take them the wrong way -

1. These axes with the multi wedges - are these working axes or hangers only?
2. If workers, do you think with multiple pieces in the eye they can hold up to chopping, and more importantly, felling? (felling is where I have historically made heads loose myself, cause the head is down in and I instinctively wrench out.

I wonder if the handles can hold up to repeated use with multiple wedges in the eye. I have no issue with what you have done, or how you have done it. Hell I have tried a multi wedge attack since seeing your work. I am just cautious with whether it will hold up.

Guess there is only one way to find out!

 

[John Frankl]

Operator,

No offense taken at all. I really don't know the answers.

That said, these wedges go in as deep and solid as a single wedge would. If they start working loose, I would think I could reset them.

My common sensical reasoning to all this is that a single wedge that leaves lots of room is going to work itself loose faster than 2-3 wedges that suck up all the empty space and keep the head from moving around on impact or when wrenched out after being stuck.

Upon impact or any other violent shock, empty space in which the head and handle could move as separate units seems more like the enemy than the number of wedges (within reason, of course).

 

[Operator1975]

Frankl - Sounds like it might make sense, I think we need to get one of these multi wedge heads out and about and get to choppin and see what momma nature has to say!

The work you have done looks really good, please keep it up, so we can all learn from it.

Thanks!

 

[John Frankl]

Thank you for the kind words.

But despite my common sensical explanation, I think I really need to work at settling a good, single wedge right down the middle.

I am always trying to get such a tight fit in all directions that I wind up without enough room for a decent single wedge. I think I need to slim down the handle and/or widen the kerf a bit more so that I can get a decent sized single wedge in there, which will fill up the gaps both front and back, as well as probably being less work than all my "shimming" to take up space.

 

[fast14riot]

Thanks. Not sure about a constrictor. What do you think about something like a Turk's Head knot worked down till it was really tight?

A constrictor is basically the start of a turks head. If you google or youtube it, there are single and double variations. A very tight turks head will keep tight but not constrict or compress very well. Here is an illustration on how to get a very tight constrictor...

I worked as a rigger for years and I race sailboats semi professionally. I have done repairs such as this many times and have often left them for years to no ill effect.


-Xander

 

[John Frankl]

Wow, thanks!

 

[garry3]

Operator, do you pay any attention to which way the wood grain is running in your wedges?
Seems if I have a handle come loose it is always weather related. All is good when it is wet with high humidity but when it gets dry with low humidity that wood is going to change also. When I was framing for a liveing I could count on changeing my axe handle a couple times a year.

 

[CedarEater]

+1 for saving the hang! I bet it works out just fine.

That is one fine looking double bit!

 

[M3mphis]

Looks like you did an awesome job patching it up. I know I'd use it!

 

[Square_peg]

I think you're going to be fine with that hang.

....If workers, do you think with multiple pieces in the eye they can hold up to chopping, and more importantly, felling? (felling is where I have historically made heads loose myself, cause the head is down in and I instinctively wrench out.

That's a good point but there are other factors involved there, too. First the shape and polish of the bit. A properly convexed and polished bit won't stick in most woods. If you're still having trouble then try to avoid having both points, heel and toe, buried in the cut at the same time. If one point is free then the axe will almost never stick. Lastly, try removing a stuck axe by striking it on the poll rather than wrenching on the handle. My experience is like yours that wrenching a stuck handle is one of the most common causes of handle failure, maybe 2nd only to overstrikes.

My common sensical reasoning to all this is that a single wedge that leaves lots of room is going to work itself loose faster than 2-3 wedges that suck up all the empty space and keep the head from moving around on impact or when wrenched out after being stuck.

You're definitely on to something there. Any movement causes abrasion which then snowballs and loosens the handle. That is a common problem with hammer handles. It's why I suggest using construction adhesive when handling a hammer, it's fills every little gap, limiting motion.

 

[John Frankl]

Thanks, Square peg. Any particular brand of adhesive? And do you ever use it on axes?

 

[Square_peg]

Any brand that specifically states, "bonds to wet, frozen and treated lumber" will do fine. It's often sold as sub-floor adhesive. DAP-4000 is the one I use most often these days. OSI SF-450 is fine so is Liquid Nails. It just has to have that statement on it.

One other thing, I have to applaud you for having the courage to post your initial failure. We all learn this way. Muchas gracias.

 

[mobenzowner]

John,
Thanks for posting this thread. I believe you have done a great job with the handle save and also think you have done a marvelous job restoring and sharpening the axe head. Would you mind revealing what method you used on rehabbing the bit? I.E. was it a belt sander or files and stones, sandpaper etc. It sure looks great and I would love to imitate whatever method you used(although I am sure my results would be inferior to yours).
Thanks,
Kevin