HAP 40 Mule Team attempt

I just made the move back to school and stumbled upon this thread. Turns out I'm a stone's throw (scratch that; reasonable trebuchet range) of one of Peter's HT facilities. Wonder if I could go see them in person......i
 
Yes I get much more use from short fixed blades.
Easy to carry, more then enough most of the time.
Your right smaller blades need better edge retention.
 
if you are going to make a knife from steel like this, gotta go for the gusto. Rc66-67 at the minimum

67RC would be it's as quenched hardness. If the RC is pushed too high I would run the risk of messing up the entire batch, and misrepresenting the steels potential. Keep in mind as the rockwell goes down the toughness goes up, so this steel at 63-64 would be extremely tuff. The toughness of this steel is also part of its appeal. Also remember edge retention is not only a result RC hardness, for instance this steel would hold an edge much better than CPM S30V at the same hardness and be dramatically tougher.
 
I think 63-64 RC would be about right to get a balance of toughness and edge holding with HAP40.
 
Step one done, profile blanks are in. Now I have to clean up the profile edges, ream the holes, and send out to heat treat.

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I know, I am looking forward to these!
It looks like the one on the right (photo) has a longer blade length, but that can be attributed to the slight angle.
 
Awesome! Didn't think it would move so fast.

These actually got done faster than I thought they would. I need to clean up the profiles and send them out for HT, I am hoping to get that done by the end of next week.
 
I see you made some in both styles. How many did make?
Are you going with the same heatreat on all?
 
I see you made some in both styles. How many did make?
Are you going with the same heatreat on all?

I have 12 of each, and the HT will be the same for all. I also had a few classic Bushcrafts cut out, and a few loveless style drop points, but those will only be avalible as finished knives.

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They all look great and I'd be happy to get ahold of either mule varient. I think overall I prefer the trailing point though.
 
Reaming the holes out with an F bit which is just a little larger than 1/4" so that 1/4" pins will fit perfectly. Water jets have a difficult time making accurate holes, so they need to be gone over. You would not want to do this after heat treatment.

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Nice, I have 1/4" brass and stainless tube and rod already available.
 
Hoping to send them out to Heat treat this week.

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After HT whats next?
How do you plain on testing?

Well after heat treat I will put some raw blanks out with no bevels for those who want to grind their own. The ones I grind are going to be a full flat grind, but those will be several weeks after the raw blades.

In terms of testing they will be triple RC tested to verify HT, but the point of this project is so they can get some real world testing from those who get them. I woud make a lousy tester anyway because I baby my blades too much. Not sure I could bring myself to putting a blade in a vise and bending with a pipe.
 
I have a Bunch of seasoned black locust next to my firepit waiting to check for chip out, rolling and general edge stability.
Black locust via Wood-Database
Workability: Overall working characteristics for Black Locust are mixed: although the grain is usually straight, its high density and hardness can make it difficult to machine. Black Locust also has a moderate blunting effect on cutting edges. Responds very well to both lathe turning and steam bending; glues and finishes well.
 
I have some locust as well, also some osage orange.
I think a variety of tests should be done.
Wood carving , splitting.
Rope , cardboard cutting.
General edc use.
Game cleaning.
Just to name a few.:)
 
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