hapstone r2 lite tips and tricks?

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Mar 19, 2019
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hey guys so i just recently got a hapstone r2 lite. I was wondering if there is any solid tips or tricks or just things i should know to get full potential from the system. I had a kme before but this thing is night and day difference.
Also just thought about something else. I just got a klein digital angle gauge. What is the best way to get it to read the angle properly? it seems when i put it on the stone carrier it reads way lower of an angle then my manual version does.
 
hey guys so i just recently got a hapstone r2 lite. I was wondering if there is any solid tips or tricks or just things i should know to get full potential from the system. I had a kme before but this thing is night and day difference.
Also just thought about something else. I just got a klein digital angle gauge. What is the best way to get it to read the angle properly? it seems when i put it on the stone carrier it reads way lower of an angle then my manual version does.
bump to the top...
 
For the angle cube, place it on top of main pivot assembly and zero it out, now place it on the stone holder and that will give you your sharpening angle.
 
appreciate the replies.

Like the OP, I've just received my R2 Lite; thus, I have lots of stupid questions...

when re-profiling an edge (I'll be practicing on cheap knives), do you work on the whole blade for each stroke?

or do you work small sections of the blade at a time until you raise a burr, then move along the blade?

sorry for the newb silliness...
 
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:. So is a pocket/handheld microscope with an LED light. About $20, money well spent.
Yes! I don't have one yet, but I've been using reading glasses and a flashlight. Being able to see well what's going on at the edge makes a big difference.
....when re-profiling an edge (I'll be practicing on cheap knives), do you work on the whole blade for each stroke?

or do you work small sections of the blade at a time until you raise a burr, then move along the blade?....
FWIW, I move the stone perpendicular to the edge, moving down a little (like 1/4 inch) at a time until I reach the tip, repeating until I get a burr on the underside (the side I'm not working) of the blade. If I get a burr forming in some places and not others, I will spend a little more time working the section not getting a burr. I try to be careful with that, because I don't want to turn my blade into a recurve. Once I get a burr running the whole length of the blade on the underside, flip, rinse, repeat.

(If I'm doing that wrong, someone tell me so that I haven't given C Canis latrans bad information, please.)
 
I work the whole blade, too, but I'd caution against doing only one side until you get a burr. If you do that, you can end up with a wider bevel on that first side because it'll take fewer strokes to raise a burr on the other side. Of course you can just do the same number of strokes on that other side to even it out, but you'll end up taking off more steel than you needed to.

To avoid that, I do 3-4 passes on one side and then the same number of passes on the other side until I eventually get a burr.

A good tip from 777: if your stones have different thickness, zero the angle cube on the stone holder before swapping stones. Then swap stones and put the cube back on the stone holder and adjust your angle until you hit 0.00°.
 
I'd caution against doing only one side until you get a burr. If you do that, you can end up with a wider bevel on that first side because it'll take fewer strokes to raise a burr on the other side. Of course you can just do the same number of strokes on that other side to even it out, but you'll end up taking off more steel than you needed to.

To avoid that, I do 3-4 passes on one side and then the same number of passes on the other side until I eventually get a burr.
Very good advise, and i speak from experience.:oops::oops::oops:. And keep inspecting your work, i can't emphasize that enough. Just keep checking and inspecting your progress. Once you take off to much metal, you can't put it back on. Just take your time, inspect your progress and you should be fine.
 
I work the whole blade, too, but I'd caution against doing only one side until you get a burr. If you do that, you can end up with a wider bevel on that first side because it'll take fewer strokes to raise a burr on the other side. Of course you can just do the same number of strokes on that other side to even it out, but you'll end up taking off more steel than you needed to.

To avoid that, I do 3-4 passes on one side and then the same number of passes on the other side until I eventually get a burr.

A good tip from 777: if your stones have different thickness, zero the angle cube on the stone holder before swapping stones. Then swap stones and put the cube back on the stone holder and adjust your angle until you hit 0.00°.
Good to know. Thx.
 
1st attempt report (and some lessons learned...)

it was ugly. period.

didn't take the time to thoroughly understand how to use the angle cube correctly.

1. don't start off trying to learn stuff when you're in a hurry
2. make sure the set-up is right (and locked down!) before you start
3. CHECK that nothing has moved (stone angle and cant; position of guide mechanism on vertical rod, etc.) as you progress.
4. CHECK to make sure clamps remain secure (see # 2 & # 3)

I'm sure there's more, but we're getting ready to head out of town...thus, I probably won't revisit this thread until next week sometime.

Happy Easter!
 
don't start off trying to learn stuff when you're in a hurry
There is your first and biggest mistake, and nearly everyone else's. PATIENCE is your first lesson, you will not get the results you want if you don't have it. Patience and taking your time and inspecting your work, it will give you something to think of on your Easter break. Stay safe out there. :)
 
Any regrets with the Lite decision?
I’m trying to choose between the standard or lite versions.
SAK’s, Spyderco/Benchmade/Buck folders, fixed blades up to a Esse 6 will be the future victims. Plus several throwaways to practice on.
Currently in the Gritomatic site cart is:
R2 standard
Venev Centauri stones
Fine tuner
Digital angle gauge
2 spring stops
 
I purchased basically the same setup (Venev Ursa instead of Centaur) and have zero regrets. You can’t go wrong with the angle clamps that come with the standard.
 
eastwa,

I do NOT have any regrets with the Lite version. I just got in a hurry (it arrived a day or two before a trip we had planned).

It is a quality piece of equipment, I just need more patience (to LEARN) and more practice.
 
I have a R2 in various trims in several different carts. I figure the same thing is going to happen. I'll order it, it'll come just as I'm heading out the door for a vacation or something and I'll "well I can just maybe check the angle of this knife real quick. Maybe touch up the polishing. Or screw up the knife and get a chance to look more into the R2's manual while I'm gone"
 
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