Recommendation? Hard use folder

I have been in “expensive@ knives for more than 10 years now but I always somehow took care of my knives
I have always used my knives but only with the “reason” :)

However has the time has come for me to slim down my collection I decided to test if spending so much money in knive can be justified;)
For ~150$ the PM2 has really impressed me and IMHO it is really worth the price

The conclusion of my test:
The strength of the pivot and stop pin is key
Most locking mechanism works fine as it is unusual to have huge constraints on the top of the blade
A user shall be easy to clean in water without need to disassemble it
When it comes to handle larger is better
Avoid brittle materials for handle scales
Blade >3mm and <4mm thick works good- less will be too fragile, more will make the blade less usable
Blade 3,35-3,8” is the right size
A finger choil is helpful
FFG and with a little belly is very versatile
Don’t care too much of fine tips, they are still made of steel
S30v is more than enough for most tasks
A good DLC resists a lot of abuse

After this 5 months experience I really leaning toward manual+washer knives

And it confirmed - and amplified my trust to the PM2. I will keep my s110v for normal use but now I know it can take a LOT

I am curious if someone has pushed something like a zt0562 to the limits
 
Therom said:
Thanks , just to ad some information, due to their marketing policy I have baned cold steel from my options
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The only thing you’re achieving by ‘banning cold steel’ from your options is banning yourself from owning the tougher knife. You can try hit all the criteria and throw all your money at other options but the simple fact is you will then own the lesser hard use knife. Cold steel were born for this kind of work, don’t be so sensitive about them liking to have a bit of childhood fun with their marketing. I love my PM2, it’s an amazing cutting tool, but for your needs and the strange abusive tasks you seem to want to use a folder for, something like the cold steel sr1 makes the PM2 feel like a kids toy. It’s a simple fact of the mechanical capabilities of lock types and overall design. The only knife tougher than the sr1 would be a custom AD10 from Andrew Demko himself, and will set you back $1300-1600, even then the sr1 is 90% as tough.
 
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Concerned by cold steel, that is my choice/responsibility as a customer

I am looking for options for testing some knives, I fully understand the limit of use of knives ... and outside the scope of my experimentation I rather test my knives well and use the right tools for the right tasks
 
One of the fancy little Stiletto 7" titanium pryers is one of the best additions I've ever made for my tool belt. They're spendy ($60 on that auction site) but totally worth it.
 
Yes I think the 0550 is a great option thanks
I have a gen.3 that I was thinking to sell but I may use it for this kind of test instead, Thanks for the idea

I think I will also give a try to a GB2 from spyderco

This may bring some interesting comparison after some time of use
 
I use it for everything: pry-bar, chisel, screwdriver, scraper, etc. Easy to clean, easy to sharpen, and it's expendable / easy to replace.

And sometimes I even use it as a knife.

gojyaEk.jpg
 
My own personal beater is a ZT 0900 and I love it. It's one of those little big knives, short stocky blade, super thick titanium frame. The whole set up is rock solid. It's like it was purpose built for tough jobs.

The handle fits my hand pretty well, but I have small hands so that could be an issue for someone else. There's a bigger brother of the 0900, the 0909 I think it is. Either could fill the role I bet.
 
Therom said:
I have been in “expensive@ knives for more than 10 years now but I always somehow took care of my knives
I have always used my knives but only with the “reason” :)

However has the time has come for me to slim down my collection I decided to test if spending so much money in knive can be justified;)
For ~150$ the PM2 has really impressed me and IMHO it is really worth the price

The conclusion of my test:
The strength of the pivot and stop pin is key
Most locking mechanism works fine as it is unusual to have huge constraints on the top of the blade
A user shall be easy to clean in water without need to disassemble it
When it comes to handle larger is better
Avoid brittle materials for handle scales
Blade >3mm and <4mm thick works good- less will be too fragile, more will make the blade less usable
Blade 3,35-3,8” is the right size
A finger choil is helpful
FFG and with a little belly is very versatile
Don’t care too much of fine tips, they are still made of steel
S30v is more than enough for most tasks
A good DLC resists a lot of abuse

After this 5 months experience I really leaning toward manual+washer knives

And it confirmed - and amplified my trust to the PM2. I will keep my s110v for normal use but now I know it can take a LOT

I am curious if someone has pushed something like a zt0562 to the limits
Click to expand...
Cool testing! A 562 would be good as long as you don’t get anything in the pivot. It’s not as thick as a XM but should work fine. The lock up will for sure change tho under harduse I feel just like any other frame lock
 
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mt666tm said:
I use it for everything: pry-bar, chisel, screwdriver, scraper, etc. Easy to clean, easy to sharpen, and it's expendable / easy to replace.

And sometimes I even use it as a knife.

gojyaEk.jpg
Click to expand...
I love this picture!

I had a mini CQC 8 Horseman and it was great to me.
I liked the steal and the egos a lot.
However the chisel was on the wrong side of the blade for me and it "bug-ged" me so much that I ended selling it.

Is the CQC 7a standard double grind or chisel grind on the left side?
 
Mick_1KRR said:
The only thing you’re achieving by ‘banning cold steel’ from your options is banning yourself from owning the tougher knife. You can try hit all the criteria and throw all your money at other options but the simple fact is you will then own the lesser hard use knife. Cold steel were born for this kind of work, don’t be so sensitive about them liking to have a bit of childhood fun with their marketing. I love my PM2, it’s an amazing cutting tool, but for your needs and the strange abusive tasks you seem to want to use a folder for, something like the cold steel sr1 makes the PM2 feel like a kids toy. It’s a simple fact of the mechanical capabilities of lock types and overall design. The only knife tougher than the sr1 would be a custom AD10 from Andrew Demko himself, and will set you back $1300-1600, even then the sr1 is 90% as tough.
Click to expand...

This is the cold hard truth. I couldn’t care less that they chop up pigs and meat jeans. It’s for effect and “extreme!” Capabilities. Fact of the matter is they are the strongest bar none. I own a ton of knives from varying makers/brands. If I am doing something I’m not sure that a knife should be doing I reach for something with the Tri-ad lock. All the meat is donated, the videos are goofy but prove a point. I don’t see anyone else intentionally whacking their knives or hanging weights. In fact they had a CS vs. xxxxx on you tube a while back that just goes to show. I have watched their proof videos since the 90’s and always got a kick out of them as a child. (Born in 90’). I was raised on their knives. My first few knives were a Voyager and a Gunsite2. Anyways if for some reason I disnt know about cold steels existence another recommendation would be the BM Contego. It will work better than the Adamas in my opinion to cut through the materials you posted pictures of.
 
Therom said:
I love this picture!

I had a mini CQC 8 Horseman and it was great to me.
I liked the steal and the egos a lot.
However the chisel was on the wrong side of the blade for me and it "bug-ged" me so much that I ended selling it.

Is the CQC 7a standard double grind or chisel grind on the left side?
Click to expand...
Pretty sure the 'A' models are double.
 
Heh. This thread is hard for me to read. I only use my knives for cutting and the occasional chopping. Prybar! :)

The non-Cold Steel folding knives that I own which I'd pry with if I had to:

Demko AD-15
Freeman 451
FirstEdge Tracklock
G&G Hawk MUDD
Hinderer XM-18 Fatty
Ontario Prime
CRK Zaan
Any REKAT
SOG Tomcat
Spydie Chinook 4
Spydie K2
The big Spydie Manix lockback
Spydie Tatanka
ZT 0220
ZT 0801
 
Mick_1KRR said:
The only thing you’re achieving by ‘banning cold steel’ from your options is banning yourself from owning the tougher knife. You can try hit all the criteria and throw all your money at other options but the simple fact is you will then own the lesser hard use knife. Cold steel were born for this kind of work, don’t be so sensitive about them liking to have a bit of childhood fun with their marketing. I love my PM2, it’s an amazing cutting tool, but for your needs and the strange abusive tasks you seem to want to use a folder for, something like the cold steel sr1 makes the PM2 feel like a kids toy. ...
Click to expand...

I have an SR1 and I like it. The triad is a strong if finicky lock (to disengage). But the blade needs a serious reprofiling if you actually plan to use it for cutting at a level even close to the ffg PM2. I actually carry a Mili (or PM2) and an SR1. The spyderco is for cutting, the SR1 is for edged-tool chores that don't require the same sliceyness but might put more stress on the blade. Honestly, the compression lock is plenty strong enough and much more ergonomic than most triads.
 
Unless the marketing from Cold Steel, I am sure I will have at least a recon 1 or an american lawman in my collection already.
The new Recon with s35v look great for sure.

Jut to clarify my point, I don't blame or denigrate their products.

It is just a personal decision not to buy from them.
 
Cold Steel Recon 1 with the Tri-ad lock.

Edit. Did not see your above post.
 
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