Hard Use Review of Buck Strider 889

Based on this review I just bought the 882 modes with the Ats-34 blade and the g-10 grips. I was in Knoxville, TN this week and drove over to Smoky Mountain Knife Works and looked at several knives on my want list. I ended up buying the Buck Strider as they told me the Buck rep said these are not going to be made sometime soon. I guess collaborating with Strider was a hassle for Buck.

My liner lock engages the left side of the blade and not the middle as the picture above depicts. It is very solid and difficult to engage. I haven't used it yet as I just got home this afternoon with it. To tell you the truth I really liked the Spyderco Keating Chinook better but I figured I could always get that later. Heck, this thing is heat treated by Bos so how could I go wrong?
The action in opening is not near as smooth as my BM 710 with an axis lock, but what is? The closing action is harder due to the stiffness of the liner lock.
The grip is very secure in the hand and IMHO would not slip when stabbing anything. The g10 is lightly textured and gives excellent texture without being abrasive.

I like this knife and will rotate into my EDC line up.:D :D
 
It does not seem fair that people compare a BUck/strider that costs less than 100$ to sebenzas(over rated) and Striders that cost 3 times as much.
Compared to other knives in that price range like CRKT M16's they do much better. The onlu issue I would have is they look a little thick for comfortable pocket carry.
 
Deep6Osama said:
I had to use lock tite on a Buck 186 which I had upgraded to a BG-42. It seems Buck does not have the correct Bushing. If the screw was tightened to much the blade would not move. So I backed it off a bit added lock tite to the threads adjusted the screw and let it set for a day.
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That happens to a lot of folders with adjustable pivot screws, especially in heavy work especially with those without bushings where you have to leave the screw less than fully tight to allow ease of opening.
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Some time ago I came up with an idea for pivot screw that does not need locktite. I have not seen a similar method used anywhere before, and I have never got around to making a folder that incorporates it. I mentioned it on the general forum long ago and the general response I recieved was that folks don't mind having to use lock tite on their pivot screws, and aren't really interested in something "better".
 
Possum, could you be able to make something like that for the 889? I might be interested if you want to PM or email me. Have any pics or is it just a conceptual thing?
 
I have the OD model, too. When I first got it, it wouldn't take even a very light spine whack so I sent it back to the dealer for replacement. I got it back about 10 days later and it was the the same knife. They had obviously ground the liner engagement area of the blade and now the problem is completely cured. Other than that initial problem, it's a well made, tight knife that takes a good edge.
 
fedaykincmndr-

Right now it's still just a concept. I've never made one yet, and would feel more comfortable doing so if I had access to a lathe, just to make sure everything was concentric.
 
I have an 887 in 420H steel (wait - hold your breath ) and a Strider SnG. The Strider is actually thinner and rides easier in the pocket for me.

The comments about thin liners may be very model dependent. I do not expect the ATS34/G10 to have the same thickness; you picture is helpful in comparing the two.
 
45Shooter said:
I have the OD model, too. When I first got it, it wouldn't take even a very light spine whack so I sent it back to the dealer for replacement. I got it back about 10 days later and it was the the same knife. They had obviously ground the liner engagement area of the blade and now the problem is completely cured. Other than that initial problem, it's a well made, tight knife that takes a good edge.
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Are you saying the dealer repaired the knife or sent it to Buck for repair?
 
hardheart said:
I prefer engagement on the far left of just the thickness of the liner. I want as much room for wear as possible on a liner lock.
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Just out of curiousity, has anyone worn out a liner lock? How many years would that take? It only moves fractions of an inch and its not a high friction, or high heat part? I only ask because I read this often on the forums here, I have several Buck liner locks, never had a problem...
They all lock up on the blade, some left, some center, and some right.
I have never had one fail yet. I just bought the buck/strider 882 and so far it is awesome!
Thanks for posting your test results and pics!! :D
Good luck!
 
Just out of curiousity, has anyone worn out a liner lock?
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Not quite a liner lock, but I have a Camillus EDC that was my constant companion for maybe a couple years. Over time, I noticed the lock bar began to travel much further, from far left of center to right of center. Under magnification, I could see on the face of the lock bar where it had become galled and grooved from rubbing over the edge of the blade during opening/closing. The blade was hard, the lock bar soft, something had to give and it was the lock bar.

After this experience, I became concerned about lifespan for this kind of lock. FWIW, I think the Buck liners are hardened on this surface, so maybe they don't have this problem. I haven't been using mine long enough to tell yet. On the EDC, I don't think it was really friction that was the problem as much as the sharp edge of the tang the lock bar had to ramp over on every open/close cycle that wore it down. I have another EDC nib stashed. If I ever put it into service, I think I'll take a fine polishing stone and knock that edge off the tang first.
 
I thought I'd post an update. I liked this knife so much that this weekend at a factory outlet I saw one for sale for 40 USD and picked one up. Now I have 2! This is the only knife I've ever done that with and ever liked enough to own two of them. I hope everyone has as GREAT an experience with this blade as I have.
 
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