Hard wood vs soft wood wedge

I've used pretty much the whole spectrum, and I just go on a case-by-case basis. I like softwoods (red fir 2x4) when I'm cross-wedging, or I'll make a mahogany wedge for a clean, fancy job. Mahogany makes a darn nice contrast.
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Two days ago I was helping my buddy remove old Ikea bed (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00160215/?query=001.602.15 ) from the bedroom. I realized there was something more to it than just regular h..depot plywood; Beech veneer, Birch veneer, Adhesive resin. I grabbed my worn out McKlein electrician knife and gave it a stab test.
I do not like when the wedge splits in the middle. Have any of you considered using a wedge made from old skateboard or other good quality plywood?
 
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crbnSteeladdict said:
Two days ago I was helping my buddy remove old Ikea bed (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00160215/?query=001.602.15 ) from the bedroom. I realized there was something more to it than just regular h..depot plywood; Beech veneer, Birch veneer, Adhesive resin. I grabbed my worn out McKlein electrician knife and gave it a stab test.
I do not like when the wedge splits in the middle. Have any of you considered using a wedge made from old skateboard or other good quality plywood?
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Achieving a smooth and uniform taper out of multi-ply material (such as Baltic Birch) isn't going to be very easy. You'll have parallel and cross grain sections working against you. If you want to try something different try replicating the PVC (or is it ABS) wedges that Council Tools use.
 
300Six said:
PVC (or is it ABS) wedges that Council Tools use.
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I never thought to reuse all the cut off ends of my black ABS pipe or white PVC as wedges...what are the advantages/disadvantages of using plastic in the kerf?

I like and prefer working with wood but upon just reading this I am curious why?
 
The FS requires the plastic on pulaskis. I don't think they stay in as good. I see a lot of them backing out.
The advantage is that they are impervious to moisture and won't shrink/swell.
I would skip the plastic.
 
I think you're better off with a wedge that is at least slightly softer than hickory. I want the wedge wood to be slightly compressed so that it will have a naturally tendency to swell into a newly formed gap and keep things tight.

When setting the wedge I always coat it a mixture of DPG:water 4:1, the generic equivalent of Swel-Lock. If you want the wedge to never back out than try this. You first need to develop a sense for when the wedge is about to stop (a wedge must never bottom out but instead be stopped by the sides of the kerf). Try to drive the wedge to 1/8" from where it will naturally stop. Then let it set overnight. The next day trim the wedge flush to the haft which should protrude 1/4" above the eye. Now use wide thin punch to drive the wedge that last 1/8" below the top of the haft. Hit the top with DPG again. The haft will swell over the top of the wedge locking it in permanently.

A piece of flat stock cold rolled steel makes a dandy punch for setting that wedge. Or you can use a scrap of leaf spring if it's narrow enough.
 
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