Has Anybody Reviewed a Kershaw Groove? N/M

Thom, I think I remarked before, if you aren't a writer/humorist, you really should be. So many of your posts are so well written and enjoyable, I sometimes feel inadequate to reply.

Cheese-friendly tactical folders ... you know, there might be a bigger niche market there than we think.
 
Just to make sure the correction gets read and noted. I mistyped when I posted the thickness of the lock on the JYDII. Its .080 not .070 as I said earlier.

STR
 
Thanks for the kind words, Dog of War. Right back atcha.

STR,

Pardon my dumbness, but are the liners steel? 0.08" thick steel liners would be insanely overbuilt. Nothing wrong with that. It'd be overbuilt with titanium, too, but sanely so.
 
410 stainless steel correct Thom. Its not only going to wear better being hardened steel but its stronger than a .125 titanium frame lock at that thickness easily.

STR
 
The Groove is the only one that you can flip the blade out on easily with no additional wrist flick help like needed for all the others and this is true of the Groove even when holding the knife straight up so the blade has to go against gravity to lock into the open position. It flips right out with nothing more than a movement of the index finger by itself. I can't duplicate this with any of the other knives with flippers I currently own.
Click to expand...

I just got mine. I"m not sure what is wrong, but when I flip it it just opens halfway:confused: I need to definitely jolt my wrist to open it. Not smooth at all. Maybe it is cold or something? Not sure what is wrong. Blade is almost centered , just a bit to the bottom side.
 
Get on the tip of that flipper Dave....no "whisky" finger now....send that blade sizzling open:D

When opening a flipper, I even push "up" on the tip of flipper, creating a bit of energy, and then go for the down stroke. This will bring out the blade with speed behind it, and as Vincent says, it makes it seem like SpeedSafe.:thumbup:

IMO, of all the new flippers we are producing, the Groove is the easiest to work. Very short learning curve...once you got it...you got it.

Someone needs to do a video showing the technique, anyone....
 
Thanks for the info STR. I've read about the Edge Pro systems and need to go ahead and order one. The Spyderco has always worked for me as I rarely let an edge get to the point of becoming really dull.

As far as flinning the Groove, I can definately agree that it is the smoothest flipper and does not require any wrist action with it. I've said it in a couple other places, but Kershaw has really hit a winner with the Groove!:thumbup:
 
Thanks, Razorsharp244! Now I know!

Just got my undeserving mitts on a Kershaw Groove. Mine was a stone-cold cutter right out of the box. The pocketclip was tighter than I had wished, but it's a knife that looks great; cuts great; and is tons of fun to flick open. The handle's gorgeous and secure and works great with my wussbag fingers. The recurve isn't too pronounced, but it'd help if you have an alternative to benchstones when it dulls. Like a Sharpmaker for instance.

Even though it's made in Toulatin, Oregon, the knife screams: "I'm from Bridgewater!"
 
Posted in this Knife Reviews & Testing section

Kershaw RJ Martin Groove (link)

Groove.jpg


enjoy!

see also

Kershaw JunkYard Dog II

--
Vincent
http://clik.to/UnknownVT2007
http://clik.to/UnknownVT2006
http://clik.to/UnknownVT2005
http://clik.to/UnknownVT2004
http://clik.to/UnknownVincent
 
Great review STR! I'm playing with the JYD right now! I love this little pit bull....
Steve, what are your thoughts about the Linerlocks on the JYD2 and Groove vs. the integral framelocks on the JYD.....(i'm thinking about that great post u made discussing integral framelocks vs. linerlocks vs. lockbacks on another "popular" forum....:confused: My JYD locks up like a vault.....i'd even say (b/c its new) it takes more than a little effort for me to disengage the lock...;)
the smoothness of the flipper on the Groove (as u described) reminds me of the action of my Spyderco Impala's linerlock.....like butta!:)
I guess what i'm looking for is a good excuse to buy the JYD2!
Very interesting reading....coz the 1st thing on my mind when i saw the Groove was "friction"......glad to hear (actually pleasantly surprised) that the Groove had very little friction during cutting.....
 
I have very few liner or frame lock folders I really trust or use a lot, however Kershaw is doing them pretty well compared to many of the other integral type locks I've owned, used or tested for others. The Storm II and JYDII as well as the JYD and the Groove are all keepers for me and I praise what Kershaw has done here on all of them. Perhaps if everyone did them this well we would not even be having some of the topics come up like Vasilli brought up in that other thread. I still find it very hard to find fault with any of the above mentioned folders, especially when you consider that they are made in the USA, and priced so the average working man can afford one.

FWIW. I made a cut out in the JYDII to take away G10 on the lock side to basically technically make it more like a frame lock which I prefer over a liner lock. I wanted to expose the lock to my index finger a little bit as a security feature for myself because I feel it will make me feel better about the reliability of the lock and prevent any accidental sliding of it. Not that I have seen any with it or any of the Kershaw locks. Actually it is quite the opposite. I have tested some of the Kershaw stainless locks quite hard and they have performed above and beyond and shown to me that they are not only well made, but both reliable and strong. Well, as strong as any liner or frame lock can be anyway.

STR
 
STR said:
Just to make sure the correction gets read and noted. I mistyped when I posted the thickness of the lock on the JYDII. Its .080 not .070 as I said earlier.

STR
Click to expand...

Whoa. That changes things, that makes it as thick as the Strider AR/GB's, with a steel lock vs. Ti. That thing must be a TANK.:eek:
 
samhain73 said:
Whoa. That changes things, that makes it as thick as the Strider AR/GB's, with a steel lock vs. Ti. That thing must be a TANK.:eek:
Click to expand...

STR said:
Just to make sure the correction gets read and noted. I mistyped when I posted the thickness of the lock on the JYDII. Its .080 not .070 as I said earlier.

STR
Click to expand...

I don't have a micrometer to confirm -
but according to Tim Galyean the liner (on the JYD2) is supposed to be 0.070" -
so may be STR was right first time?

Kershaw JunkYard Dog II

and

Kershaw RJ Martin Groove

--
Vincent
http://clik.to/UnknownVT2007
http://clik.to/UnknownVT2006
http://clik.to/UnknownVT2005
http://clik.to/UnknownVT2004
http://clik.to/UnknownVincent
 
Actually Thomas told me the same thing when he corrected me and told me it was .070 but the measurement with my digital caliper says otherwise. Its actually .081 on my own JYDII if you want the exact measurement using my caliper. I rounded it off.

EDIT: Well, I actually measured it again to be sure. I do get variances if I experiment a little. The thinnest measurement I get is .075 down a ways on the lock, but toward the contact it thickens to .077 then .079 and then right at the contact at the very first groove mark it measures the thickest at .0805/.081, and yes I made sure not to include the detent ball in that final measurement.

Heck, if I add that ball into things it increases the measurement a good bit. Perhaps it is possible that the detent placement of the ball squishing out material there where it was installed is what is responsible for the increase at the contact but the other increase and inconsistancy is just typical of what you see buying any sheet of steel or titanium. The only knives I have ever measured that are as close to exactly the same measurement all over are Sebenzas because CR is so anal about it that he goes to the extra of actually flat grinding his sheets to make sure they measure the same thickness before he even drills a hole in them.

Most other makers don't mess with this though based on what I see and I've never seen that kind of tolerance from any production and certainly wouldn't expect to see that in something of the price point of these knives.

Well, I guess I better edit this again. I shouldn't say most other makers/manufacturers don't mess with it. I can't say that with certainty. They might do some tweaking on the stock for all I know. The tolerances seem higher on the CR stock to me than anything else I've handled and the measurements support that.


STR
 
STR said:
Actually Thomas told me the same thing when he corrected me and told me it was .070 but the measurement with my digital caliper says otherwise. Its actually .081 on my own JYDII if you want the exact measurement using my caliper. I rounded it off.

EDIT: Well, I actually measured it again to be sure. I do get variances if I experiment a little. The thinnest measurement I get is .075 down a ways on the lock, but toward the contact it thickens to .077 then .079 and then right at the contact at the very first groove mark it measures the thickest at .0805/.081, and yes I made sure not to include the detent ball in that final measurement.
Click to expand...

Thanks STR - can't argue with actual measurements -
that's why I had the caveat that I could not measure to confirm (or refute) -
good to see you're "on the ball" :D

The liner-lock is kind of narrow close to the contact point -
so may be "influenced" by stamping and/or machining? -
how about the thickness of the liner itself, or some place on the liner-lock but behind the cutout where it's a bit wider -
so the micrometer doesn't have to contact/touch any of the edges?

Thanks,

--
Vincent
http://clik.to/UnknownVT2007
http://clik.to/UnknownVT2006
http://clik.to/UnknownVT2005
http://clik.to/UnknownVT2004
http://clik.to/UnknownVincent
 
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