Has anyone had this problem?

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Adam Reese

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I just wanted to see if anyone else has run into this. I am working on four knives right now. They are all out of Aldo's 1095. This is my first time working with this steel, I have used his 1084 in the past, but not his 1095. Anyway, here's were I'm at so far. The blades are profiled, ground, everything is sanded to 220. I started drilling my holes today and that's where the problems started. The bit would go about halfway through, then stop, like the center of the bar was hardened. I went and bought a new cobalt drill bit thinking maybe mine was dull or something...Nope...Same thing. I have worked his 1084 and it worked beautifully. I guess I'm going to have to anneal these before I can get any further. Has anyone else ran into this? Am I possibly doing something wrong?

Oh, the stock is 3/16" by the way

-Adam
 
My first thought is work hardening the spot from drilling too fast/hard pressure? Are you drilling with cutting fluid?

I have had similar problems with elmax, mainly cutting but still.
 
It sounds as though the piece is not properly annealed. 1095 needs to spheroidized annealed to make it easier to cut or drill. A standard anneal does not do well with hypereutectic steels because you end up with lamellar plates of carbon which resist cutting tools. Spheroidizing is done in the 1350° heat range, which is shy of non-magnetic, causing the carbon to form spheres allowing the cutting tool to pass by them. I have had acceptable results by just running short heat cycles in this range of temp, but if you do some research on this, the steel can be made very tool friendly with a proper spheroidizing anneal. Someone else here may be able to give you the needed steps in doing this in a more complete manner. It is my understanding that since 1084 is a eutectic steel, it can be annealed either way with good results.
 
Thanks for the input guys,

Tin man, I thought I may be work hardening it, but I tried about 8 different holes, in random spots, with cutting oil and my drill press as slow as it could go. Still no luck.

LRB, I ran them through an annealing cycle last night, hopefully that will help.

I should know something in a minute either way...:)

-Adam
 
1095 is the problem. Use 01.
 
Ha Ha. I know. I know...

I was out of O1, and had this 1095 I bought at blade last year so I thought I would try it. I'll send you a picture of the hamons when I get through...:)

Anyways, the annealing did the trick. Oh the sweet smell of success...Or is that cutting oil?
IMG_20131107_084939_406_zpsd0f08bf2.jpg
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Now it's off to normalize and heat treat these things
-Adam
 
Thanks Jens,

They look even better now... They are in the oven tempering as we speak. The hamons should reveal themselves later tonight...

Adam
 
Yes, I've had this problem with 1095 from Jantz. I'm getting ready to make some carving knives out of my bars so I'm glad I saw this.

I'll try an anneal. A piggyback question if you don't mind?

Does this cause any issues when grinding the steel, or just when drilling it? I imagine it would be best to just anneal all of it...
 
I always thought that Aldo's steel, well a good amount of his steels at least, and specifically 1095 came in a spheroidized annealed state?

Adam, did you use a HT kiln/oven to properly do a spheroidized anneal cycle on your blades or did you use a forge?

I always have problem with drilling holes, I use the Harbor Freight ~$50-60 drill press, and I'm guessing that isn't sufficient HP for doing a lot of skeletonizing in tangs or a lot of drilling in high carbon steels period..? Any opinion on the HF drill press anybody?

I have recenlty asked about how to do a spheroidize anneal using a gas forge, so I'm good with that info, but should I be doing this step even when doing a plain stock removal blade, if I'm having the same problem as the OP? That would suck if that was the problem.. I need do by a better press and more cobalt drill bits. I also use a drill doctor to sharpen my bits, and put a split points on them, but it seems to not relieve the backside on the edge properly (theres no slope downward behind the cutting edge on the bit after I use the D Doctor, so I have to use have belt grinder or bench grinder to finish them off, which I suck at pretty badly) :/

Thanks

-Paul
 
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it may be a poor short cut but if you are doing a lot of holes of the same size I'm suggesting a carbide bit. Frank
 
Strig,
The steel ground and cut pretty easy, it was just the drilling that was the problem. Regardless, it would be just as easy to cut your steel to lenght, then anneal the bar stock, then proceed with everything else. That way you wouldn't have to worry about it.

Paul,
Aldo's website says it comes annealed, but I'm not sure if it's spherodial or lamellar. Either way, it wasn't to much trouble annealing it, I do it in my HT oven, so it was pretty easy. I'm not sure about trying it with a forge.

I too have the harbor freight drill press and it does fine for me, I just sometimes wish it could go slower. I use it for most all of my drilling.

Frank,
I have a couple of those on my want list. I am trying to work a deal on a milling machine too, and if I get that, I will definately be getting some carbide bits!


-Adam
 
Thanks Adam, I've ground a few blades and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary, but I don't have a lot of experience.

I too have the HF press. It's really old, and I'm not certain that it's like their new models. I'm sure it's very similar, belt and pulleys under a flip top for speed adjustment. I have used many presses in different capacities, and I really like the little green machine. Not only is the motor going strong, but the old original belt is still kicking. Imo, it's one of the better purchases from that particular store.
 
Strigamort said:
Yes, I've had this problem with 1095 from Jantz. I'm getting ready to make some carving knives out of my bars so I'm glad I saw this.

I'll try an anneal. A piggyback question if you don't mind?

Does this cause any issues when grinding the steel, or just when drilling it? I imagine it would be best to just anneal all of it...
Click to expand...

I have never had any issues with the 1095 from Jantz. It always comes cold rolled, annealed and strait as an arrow.
 
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