Has anyone here made Spears?

JG Custom Metal Works

JG Custom Metal Works

Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
1,626
So I'm throwing around the idea of making a spear or two. I'd like to make one that is fairly basic, with a double-edged head. Something that was long enough to pierce into the vitals of a wild boar. I'd like to make it light enough to be nimble in the hands. This will be a entirely function driven piece and will be kept by me. I'm wondering what would be an affordable, tough kind of wood for the shaft? Perhaps an ash or hickory dowel?

Another spear design I'm thinking about would be more of a walking stick/survival spear. It would be made out of with tubular aluminum or titanium. It would unscrew at different sections and hold different "survival gear." For the spear part I thought I could have one of the sections contain three spikes inside. They would be attached to the inside of the cap and the cap could have the same threading on the opposite side of the spikes. That way it could be taken out, flipped upside-down and used as a three-pronged fishing spear. It might also be good if I could make it only accept one of the spikes so it could be more of a defense weapon.

Anyway, I'm just kind of brain storming and thought I'd bounch the idea off you guys and see if anyone else has made Spears. Please feel free to share pics or ideas
 
If you have Instagram look up backwoodbarbarian he recently had one made, I think it was a 3v blade and they used carbon fibre for the shaft.
 
I've drawn a couple up but have yet to make one. My ideas were just a traditional looking double edged symmetrical grind with a 'tang' about 4 inches long with opposing lashing points. Something I could carry in a pack then attach to any long stick fashioned in the woods. Similar to the one made by Esee but a bit more robust. Good luck and please post pics.
 
Use 1070.

There are two basic ways - a tanged head spear ( think Watusi), and a socket spear head. The tanged head is simpler to make. The socket is stronger.

Make a tanged spear from square stock or round stock. The exposed tang can be very short ( or none) or as long as a foot. The part in the shaft should be at least as long as the part exposed.

Make a socket spear from flat or square stock. The socket is made by forging out a triangle of metal after the spar head and rolling it into the socket around a mandrel. It can be welded shut or left with a seam.

Shoot for a fairly soft blade .. Rc 50-55.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Use 1070.

There are two basic ways - a tanged head spear ( think Watusi), and a socket spear head. The tanged head is simpler to make. The socket is stronger.

Make a tanged spear from square stock or round stock. The exposed tang can be very short ( or none) or as long as a foot. The part in the shaft should be at least as long as the part exposed.

Make a socket spear from flat or square stock. The socket is made by forging out a triangle of metal after the spar head and rolling it into the socket around a mandrel. It can be welded shut or left with a seam.

Shoot for a fairly soft blade .. Rc 50-55.
Click to expand...

Do you think 1084 would work okay? I was thinking I'd harden the spear head and leave the tang soft. Part of my reasoning for doing that is I don't think I'll be able to fit a real long piece in my Atlas Forge.

If you think 1084 would work, what tempering cycle would you suggest? Three 1-2hr tempers at 450f-500f maybe? Not sure how high I can get with my oven...
 
1084 would be fine.
Harden the blade and draw the tang back to blue. ( your plan would work, but may be less controlled)

Temper at 600F an hour twice. 500F would make a Rc 57-58 blade.
 
There are some excellent YouTube videos out there on the subject. Lots of us reenactors out there who like that kind of thing... ;)
 
I beleive Randall made those screw on walking stafes/ spears
(looked them up, they use a knife as spear head)
H10%20763.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top