Has anyone used Busse knives in extreme condition?

I once used a SHBA to spread peanut butter :foot:, the reallllllly think chunky kind :eek: with only minimal damage to the knife.
After 5 hours of sharpening she was back to as good as new. :p

piglet
 
Can't really say extreme, but as extreme as VA can get in February. Probably 20-degrees or so, but we (me & Jeepnut22) have seen a Gerber LMF (original) break at the hilt after being accidentally dropped. We laughed......
 
......we laughed at the owner, Wayne. I can say Gerber does honor their lifetime warranty though. They sent him a Silver Trident and then Jeepnut22 got stabbed in the hand with it on the following camping trip.
 
dduangrat said:
......we laughed at the owner, Wayne. I can say Gerber does honor their lifetime warranty though. They sent him a Silver Trident and then Jeepnut22 got stabbed in the hand with it on the following camping trip.
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And then Wayne said whos laughing now...:p
 
paua said:
http://www.physlink.com/Education/AskExperts/ae546.cfm

My mistake. I was not focusing on knife blade material anymore. In the factory I work, we use stainless steel with high nickel content for low temp application just because it will not be as brittle as other steel.
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Paua, a true stainless steel has a minimum of 12.5 to 13% chromium. Any steel considered stainless is not a tough steel by hard use standards. In other words, whatever stainless steel you use, consider INFI light years ahead of it in toughness. Stainless is NOT a tough steel. Even plain carbon steel is tougher.

The A series steels(A2, A5, A8, A9), the S series steels(S5, S7), INFI, O1, 1084, etc. are all tougher than any stainless steel you are using...
 
RussMo said:
The friends that I have that trap, get back to a cabin or shealter, take there belt with knife/gear, and rifle, and hang them outside. The items don't require as much TLC that way. If you just used your knife gutting something well then yeh you want to clean it, but otherwise leave it alone and let it stay cold.
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You might want to consider the type of sheath to use in extreme cold....press stud snaps can freeze solid...kydex works best for me...or a Scandi type pouch....keep a small can of lighter fuel with you for studs which are frozen...the fuel evaporates like a de-icer and can free the studs without risk of rust....my knife sheaths are kydex but I have encountered this with the leather axe head cover on my Gransfors Small Forest Axe. Actually if someone could do a Kydex cover for my Axe which could work without a strap/stud arrangement I would be very interested....been meaning to sort this out....this thread just reminded me....
 
GregS said:
In sub zero temperatures I can picture myself or someone else taking shelter in a cabin, tent etc. , taking off his or her gloves and going to use (fondle:o) their knife, and it still being cold enough for their skin too stick, well after taking shelter.;)
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I'd taken (back when I was in the north) tot he habit of wearing Nomex flight gloves with larger gloves or mittens over them. Kept my hands from freezing to a knife, and more to the point, my rifle. I usually didn't take them off for quite some time, even after going inside.
 
I don't know if I'd call it extreme but here's a few pics from last winter that have been up before.

CGFBM on Frozen whitetail bone.
Treeandfun001.jpg


Treeandfun026.jpg


Treeandfun029.jpg


Some battoning, same day.
Treeandfun005.jpg


Treeandfun006.jpg

My baton kept breaking so I stopped and played with fire for a while.

Not extreme weather but the baton was beefy.
TreestandsSept2728of08069.jpg


Happy Holidays
Helle
 
While I love that unique 'snap' kydex gives when the blade is secured, I never carry a blade in kydex in really cold weather unless I can keep the sheath inside my insulateds. I've seen good kydex sheaths and holsters shatter in sub-freezing temps.

For warm weather, I usually prefer the kydex as it doesn't absorb sweat when worn close to the skin.

PeterPHWS said:
You might want to consider the type of sheath to use in extreme cold....press stud snaps can freeze solid...kydex works best for me...or a Scandi type pouch....keep a small can of lighter fuel with you for studs which are frozen...the fuel evaporates like a de-icer and can free the studs without risk of rust....my knife sheaths are kydex but I have encountered this with the leather axe head cover on my Gransfors Small Forest Axe. Actually if someone could do a Kydex cover for my Axe which could work without a strap/stud arrangement I would be very interested....been meaning to sort this out....this thread just reminded me....
Click to expand...
 
I would be interested to know what temperatures and what caused the "shatter" effect.

My own experience has been OK....but checking up on this there are different types of kydex sheeting and I guess the choice of kydex used must play an important part in performance.

I did hear the RCMP were looking at kevlar/kydex mixes to improve cold weather performance on pistol holsters....then there is the "scientific" stuff as to what works best...here is a link to the Kydex web site on that one... http://www.kydex.com/briefs/122.pdf personally I find this stuff very hard to get a clear understanding from.

Then you have the musings from Cliff Stamp on this...but that is similar to the "scientific" stuff for me.....

All told....good kydex sheaths have worked well for me....but if anyone can give temperature details on a failure....including wind chill...I would be very interested.

It would be good to know what sort of operational range you can expect problems at....mine have been OK down to -15C to -20C ( at a guess ) with I suspect varying wind chill effects. Usually though the knife is carried behind my Kidney pouches on my webbing...sort of sandwiched between those and the belt/hippo pad....so perhaps not directly exposed.
 
PeterPHWS said:
I would be interested to know what temperatures and what caused the "shatter" effect.

My own experience has been OK....but checking up on this there are different types of kydex sheeting and I guess the choice of kydex used must play an important part in performance.

I did hear the RCMP were looking at kevlar/kydex mixes to improve cold weather performance on pistol holsters....then there is the "scientific" stuff as to what works best...here is a link to the Kydex web site on that one... http://www.kydex.com/briefs/122.pdf personally I find this stuff very hard to get a clear understanding from.

Then you have the musings from Cliff Stamp on this...but that is similar to the "scientific" stuff for me.....

All told....good kydex sheaths have worked well for me....but if anyone can give temperature details on a failure....including wind chill...I would be very interested.

It would be good to know what sort of operational range you can expect problems at....mine have been OK down to -15C to -20C ( at a guess ) with I suspect varying wind chill effects. Usually though the knife is carried behind my Kidney pouches on my webbing...sort of sandwiched between those and the belt/hippo pad....so perhaps not directly exposed.
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Pete,
Up here in Alaska when I say cold I'm talking -20'F (-28'C) to -50'F (-45'C).
I've been on snowmachines, 4-wheelers, snowshoes and X-country skies for some time. I leaned along time ago Plastic/Kydex/ and POLY will not hold up in extreme cold. It will for awhile, but the cold effects things like nothing else. It will all become brittle. I DO NOT put oil on my guns when traveling out in those condition. Oil and any other lube WILL freeze or gum. I use dry graphite on my rifle bolts. Seen to many actions freeze. The other thing about cold weather operations that has not been touched on, is that one must exercise what they have. I mean to say you have to function check your bolt, move your snaps, losen and tighten your canteen cap, change your socks during the day 2-3 times, etc etc. Nothing and I mean nothing is set in stone in the north country. I takes longer to do everything. You try not to sweat, but going back to knives, guns etc, you MUST take care of them, for them to take care of you. Below -10'F I go with leather period. It doesn't break, crack, or pop real loadly when a tree branch slaps it. My 2-cents. Not being argumentative, just relaying what has worked for me in Alaska.
IMG_1200.jpg
 
Well, dry lubing my rifle and using lighter fuel in the trigger is something I do as well in Artic conditions....but have you had Kydex shatter? If so...at what temperature?
 
PeterPHWS said:
Well, dry lubing my rifle and using lighter fuel in the trigger is something I do as well in Artic conditions....but have you had Kydex shatter? If so...at what temperature?
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No, but when it's that cold kydex is to much a pain in the butt(stiff). Back to leather!!!
 
dduangrat said:
......we laughed at the owner, Wayne. I can say Gerber does honor their lifetime warranty though. They sent him a Silver Trident and then Jeepnut22 got stabbed in the hand with it on the following camping trip.
Click to expand...

HAHA...


Very funny... :grumpy:


Only surgery I have ever had was from that. Wayne's knife, Seth's stupidity. If I remember correctly though, still competed all weekend. :thumbup:
 
Many times in extreme situations when hands and teeth could not…. mistresses have done the job. :cool: :thumbup:

Who knows how many other tools she has saved in use hard situations :thumbup:

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