It's a very hard wood, and you can probably get away with just waxing it. You can use Danish oil, but it won't take much. I haven't used it in quite awhile, but if I were I doing it today, I would sand it down to 1200 grit or finer then use a high quality wax.
The only thing to be careful with is its tendancy to burn. If you are using belts instead of hand sanding, make sure they are fresh and use a very light touch. If you burn it, the burn discoloration can run pretty deep. Good luck.
Really love the stuff! we took a different tack with the finish...
The problem with Pink Ivory is it's tendancy to turn brown as it ages...
We soaked the finished scales in UV protecting acrylic...I mean soak them good until they won't take anymore...then buff when dry...
Looks good, feels right and I hope will keep it's beautiful bright pink color for some time to come (Years? I hope...)
God shop tip here...when working on scales that oxidize or turn dark while you work on them or light colored wood, spray them with acrylic sealer when you finish for the day...This will keep dirt and grit from getting into the wood and keep them bright in color...
what is the name of this uv protection acrylic????? is it readily available, like at a hardware store??? thanks./I think the problem with woods darkening is not so much any uv problem but rather oxidation...if you can seal them they will stay nice longer, but you cant stop oxidation...like the man says, rust never sleeps......
Texas Knifemakers Supply sells "Fix-it" at about $6 a can but you can buy UV acrylic spray at art and craft stores for about $3...
Krylon and 3M and others make this stuff...Acrylic co-polymer in a solvent...Check the lable...Seals cocobolo and purpleheart and the like from the air and protects from those nasty UV rays...
Some woods will suck this stuff up big time...Helps to seal out mosture and dirt as well...Buy the thin or regular formula, not the extra thick...
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