Has S30V ever let you down?

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bravodelta

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Hi Guys,

I have knives in many steels, S30V, Infi, M4, 154cm, M390, 1095, VG10, SR77, SR101 and on and on. I enjoy learning about and using new and old steels alike and realize how easy is it to get caught up in "the latest greatest steel game!"

90% of the time a lrg classic Sebenza rides in my pocket and it has / continues to serve faithfully. My question is, has anybody had S30V (from any maker) let them down in any way, big or small?

My answer is officially no, S30V has never let me down.
 
Nope. S30V is the cat's pajamas. I would prefer it over 154CM on my Benchmades and Manix 2, but they are all good.
 
Taonari said:
S30V is the cat's pajamas.
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I thought it was the bee's knees. But either way, I can't discern much of difference between steels in the top half of the steel spectrum, but I'm not cutting burlap, sod and cardboard all day like some of you cats. For the average user, I think they are all swell. If you are using your knife all day for a living, finding the best of the best may be a worthy endeavor.

:thumbup:
 
powernoodle said:
I thought it was the bee's knees. But either way, I can't discern much of difference between steels in the top half of the steel spectrum, but I'm not cutting burlap, sod and cardboard all day like some of you cats. For the average user, I think they are all swell. If you are using your knife all day for a living, finding the best of the best may be a worthy endeavor.

:thumbup:
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I agree with that 100%.

But identifying what you will use it for as a work knife will also determine what knife and steel you buy. I use my RAT1 for all kinds of work like scraping, cutting shingles, sheetrock, prying out caulk, etc. with no concerns. It wasn't expensive, the steel is OK, but it resharpens easily. Doesn't rust unless I am opening fertilizer of some of the wood treatments I use. Regardless, it is easy to clean and I don't give it a second thought about how I use it. Like a standard issue Buck 110, it is a great work knife.

More premium steels come on better knives (read: more expensive) and I don't use them as job site knives. I took my 110V Shallot out to the job one time, and realized I wasn't going to use it for every day chores my work requires. Sharpening my carpenter's pencil, OK. Likewise opening insulation bags and opening cardboard appliance boxes. Cutting dirty, gritty material, not a chance. I chipped it a little bit (clean chips - so broken out from the edge) cutting heavy fiberglass banding used to secure materials on lumber load.

So back to the RAT1, Blur, Tenacious, etc. The premium stuff stays at home, to be used on the weekend when I can use a knife as a slicing instrument only.

Never had a problem with S30V, but never really tested it hard, either.

Robert
 
S30V is primo stuff. I've only heavily used Spyderco's version, but they seem to have nailed the HT. I like it.
 
My S30V manix 2 had a small chipping problem with factory edge but sharpened it and haven't had a problem since. The destruction test of the zt0350 cutting through bolts is a great testament to s30v. And there is also a reason why CRK uses it.
 
nope, but neither has 420hc.
 
midnight flyer said:
I agree with that 100%.

But identifying what you will use it for as a work knife will also determine what knife and steel you buy. I use my RAT1 for all kinds of work like scraping, cutting shingles, sheetrock, prying out caulk, etc. with no concerns. It wasn't expensive, the steel is OK, but it resharpens easily. Doesn't rust unless I am opening fertilizer of some of the wood treatments I use. Regardless, it is easy to clean and I don't give it a second thought about how I use it. Like a standard issue Buck 110, it is a great work knife.

More premium steels come on better knives (read: more expensive) and I don't use them as job site knives. I took my 110V Shallot out to the job one time, and realized I wasn't going to use it for every day chores my work requires. Sharpening my carpenter's pencil, OK. Likewise opening insulation bags and opening cardboard appliance boxes. Cutting dirty, gritty material, not a chance. I chipped it a little bit (clean chips - so broken out from the edge) cutting heavy fiberglass banding used to secure materials on lumber load.

So back to the RAT1, Blur, Tenacious, etc. The premium stuff stays at home, to be used on the weekend when I can use a knife as a slicing instrument only.

Never had a problem with S30V, but never really tested it hard, either.

Robert
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I have been carrying my Benchmade (610) Rukus for over two and a half years everyday. That is a lifetime record for me. I cut stuff all day long such as in this post also. Am I happy with S30V? Yes. that doesn't mean I don't get chips dings, etc. But It is a steel I love, and if you use it hard (past what you should do with a knife) All I've ever needed to do is sharpen it. I have a bunch of brand new knives (over a half a dozen Benchmades alone) just sitting in their boxes because I found "my" perfect work knife. S30V :thumbup:

I agree completely with both powernoodle and midnight flyer. I know my post my not have been clear. Just saying I love S30V.
 
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nope. love my S30V. But there are a lot of great steels out there. For me, I care less about the steel than how well the HT is done.
 
It's a fine and perfectly adequete blade steel for a "user" however I've had a hard time getting my Sebenza and Spyderco Native to take and keep that super high polished hair whittling sharp edge but for most practical purposes I feel S30V is excellent and does best with a toothy coarse edge. does the average person realy need their knife to whittle hair anyways ? I dunno.
 
I've only used Spyderco's cpm-s30v. It seems like s30v looses it's razor edge relatively quick, but keeps a decent "medium"(not shaving but not dull) edge for quite awhile. Realistically that's all I need to cut most things so s30v is fine by me.
 
I'm perfectly content with S30V. Cardboard, plastic and vinyl tubing, wood, clamshell packaging. It keeps cutting for me:)
 
matt1987 said:
It seems like s30v looses it's razor edge relatively quick, but keeps a decent "medium"(not shaving but not dull) edge for quite awhile.
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I also have that impression from my S30V knives.
Now, I am a regular but relatively light user - for me the blade steel does not make that much difference in practice, though I have a slight preference for the "biting" feeling that a good 440C blade sometimes has.
 
Nope, S30V has never let me down. Neither has any other steel let me down, especially when you temper expectation with reality.
 
Several above posts again hit it on the head. I am not going to start a flame war here, so mentioning brands is out. My experience is my Benchmade HT is perfect. I own other knives with much higher fit and finish from other makers with a much higher price tag, and in most cases the're RC seems to high for me. Those knives are harder to sharpen, don't stay sharp as long, and chip easier. My experience... YMMV.
 
Nope, never let me down. But honestly, I like spyderco's VG 10 a little better for everyday mundane tasks. The fact that it doesn't hold an edge as long is more than offset by the fact that I can sharpen that steel to hair popping sharp faster and easier than S30V. But if I'm cutting cardboard, I want the good stuff.

Grizz
 
Any steel will let you down if you use the tool for the wrong task. I've used steels up and down the quality range and they've all served me faithfully minus the occasional blade nick.
 
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