Has S30V ever let you down?

No, the only knife that let me down due to blade steel was a Gerber Paraframe. Even my old Beretta knives with Aus-6 performed as expected.
 
Like some others I find it loses that razor Sharp edge pretty quick. It also seems a little more hard to get that razor edge. I also had a knife chip out on the edge for a while but after quite a few sharpenings it seems to have stopped. I had these experiences a few years ago and have gone for other options if given the chance. So I can definitely say it isn't my favorite but I should probably try a newer knife with a more refined heat treat.
 
00ChevyScott said:
My S30V manix 2 had a small chipping problem with factory edge but sharpened it and haven't had a problem since. The destruction test of the zt0350 cutting through bolts is a great testament to s30v. And there is also a reason why CRK uses it.
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Of course he does, he assisted in it's development - Since 2003 ;)
 
I'm still not quite used to how fast it loses its razor edge, but I've never had the thing dull much in any sense. No chips, no rolling, no rust. I feel the steel could be pushed harder by some makers(notably Benchmade and CRK) to really bring out the edge holding. I find the steel really shines in its corrosion resistance. Sure there's H1, though I find it scuffs like butter and the plain edge version doesn't hold its edge much better than 12C27.
 
dsmegst said:
No, the only knife that let me down due to blade steel was a Gerber Paraframe.
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I bought one of those about 5 years ago when I had heard that Gerber "was back".

It is the only knife (long gone) that I have ever owned that would get dull in an afternoon by sitting in a drawer. Seriously, that knife was absolutely good for nothing.

Robert
 
I'm not a heavy user with my EDC's so my answer is no, along with the other steels I've owned and used.

But I have to add that some "knives" have let me down and that's why it's so important to buy something of quality. (as opposed to just price)
 
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Crucible's data sheet for CPM S30V recommends that when using an oil quench, an interrupt quench should be used to about 1000 degF. and then air cooled to below 125 degF. Can anyone tell me how to determine when the metal reaches 1000 degF?
 
edge master said:
Crucible's data sheet for CPM S30V recommends that when using an oil quench, an interrupt quench should be used to about 1000 degF. and then air cooled to below 125 degF. Can anyone tell me how to determine when the metal reaches 1000 degF?
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I've read this post over and over again trying to undertand 2 things:

1. What are you actually trying to ask in this question?
2. Why do you want to know?


My first answer was, "a thermometer." Then I figured I was being a smart ass. Then I was going to assume you were wondering so that you could heat treat it yourself, then I remembered that if you knew how to heat treat you wouldn't need to ask this question. I'm still not quite sure what you're trying to find out here. :confused:
 
edge master said:
Crucible's data sheet for CPM S30V recommends that when using an oil quench, an interrupt quench should be used to about 1000 degF. and then air cooled to below 125 degF. Can anyone tell me how to determine when the metal reaches 1000 degF?
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An IR thermometer would work. Harbor Freight has them for ~$40.
 
It hasn't let me down and it's definitely good stuff, I just don't think it's the be-all and end-all. For my uses I don't find it works significantly better than, say, 154cm, but it's definitely more difficult to sharpen than most other steels I use.

This isn't to say I don't like the stuff, it's just that I don't think it's a huge improvement over 154cm. Just my 0.02$.
 
Thanks, knafeng. I'm new to the heat treatment process and suspected an IR thermometer might work, but figured the vapors and flames from flashing off at that temperature might distort the readings on the thermometer. I've used IR thermometers in the past with mixed results.
Sorry CrimsonTideShooter, not sure what was unclear about my question. I guess it must be frustrating to read the questions of us beginners. I did due diligence to research this out before asking the question.
 
edge master said:
Thanks, knafeng. I'm new to the heat treatment process and suspected an IR thermometer might work, but figured the vapors and flames from flashing off at that temperature might distort the readings on the thermometer. I've used IR thermometers in the past with mixed results.
Sorry CrimsonTideShooter, not sure what was unclear about my question. I guess it must be frustrating to read the questions of us beginners. I did due diligence to research this out before asking the question.
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No biggy. I was in a pissy mood. :)
 
Do you know, I'd love to be able to say yes just for the look on their faces. But I can't. For all the times I have though that the s30V on this Spyderco or that CRK is bound to bust up under this kind of use, it never has - and I think I have finally had to admit that I like the the stuff and would buy it a drink, and not hit on its sister.

In fact the only real steel problems I have had have been

1) Case stainless - it is a floating turd
2) About 30% of the custom fixed blades I have bought have been pretty approximate in terms of the performance of the steel - HT I am guessing. But they have by and large come good after resharpening, regrinding
3) Roselli UHC is chippy and unforgiving, like it thinks it is being cool or something
4) I am a bit of a dab hand at putting on an edge now, but I find that most 1095 (GEC for instance) doesn't really want to play

I like VG10 - that's just subjective, but, in the end, you can't be too subjective :)
 
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