Has spyderco ever thought about making a more traditional style knife?

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Nov 24, 1999
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Just wondering if any thought has ever been put into maybe a trapper or stockman by spyderco. Or even something along the lines of a buck 110 too.
I know alot of people who carry tradtional style slip joints but you can never find any that are made with new higher performance blade steels. I don't think anyone's really looking for a stockman with G10 scales or anything like that, but some of the better steels used for the blades would be nice.

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Fix it right the first time, use Baling Wire !
 
As far back as 97, Spyderco imported the Bird and Trout series which used a rear lock and a nail nick for opening. Although it did use micarta and steel bolsters it had no pocket clip and were of narrow/ thin design to be carried in the pocket. It came in 3 sizes.

There was also the Backpacker series which used the rear lock and nail nick as well. It was constructed with cast zinc handles filled partially with kraton inserts. It had no pocket clip and were best suited for belt sheath carry. They came in 2 sizes, either with plain or serrated edge.

Both series used AUS-6 for blade steel.

L8r,
Nakano
 
Matt - funny you would mention that. It was a discussion just last week and will come up again tomorrow in our R & D meeting.

As Nakano mentioned, we do have more traditional folders, including the "Solo" line which Spyderco owns. These are however more "modern traditional that "true" traditional.

For the purposes of discussion only:

We (Spyderco forumites) are designing a slip joint folder. Keeping in mind that someone using a slip joint folder is likely to be more careful anyway.

Parameters are:

1. Must open one handed via Spyderco opening hole 12mm in diameter (1/2").

2. Must have choil or kick placed so that if the folder accidentally folds while in use, the choil or kick area will hit the first finger and prevent injury.

3. Blade length not to exceed 70mm (2-3/4") overall hilt to tip.

4. Spyderco quality is assumed.

Soooo...waddayawant? Steel(s)? Grinds? Ergonomic features? Handle materials?

sal
 
It's 2 7/8", point to handle, but what about a slip-joint Calypso Jr.?

Is the idea to be street-legal in the UK, and otherwise to be seen as a non-weapon?

Should it be designed so that a "normal" grip would put the index finger in the choil area to prevent accidental closing? Maybe more of a "choil" cutout than the Calypso would be good.

The Native offers an unusually firm grip, though it would have to be shortened by a fraction for this purpose, since it's a little over 3" of naked steel, though the 1/2" of that is finger-friendly, and there's a good "hump" at the front of the choil area to keep the index finger from sliding forward. It folds up harmlessly on the index finger even when it's behind the pivot. For a non-weaponly appearance, it should be flat-ground to the spine, without the swedge.


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- JKM
www.chaicutlery.com
AKTI Member # SA00001
 
Sounds interesting.
I'd go for a hollow grind because you can get a finer cutting edge with less height to the grind. Given the size of the knife, and the need for a little more than a 1/2" of flat for the thumb hole, you need to be able to put the hole close to the cutting edge so the knife stays slim.Or the cutting edge could start in front of the hole, so long as the hole can be put as far back as the choil.And it would have to be plain edged because of the short cutting edge.
I don't have any experience with 440V or 420V. I really like the ATS55 in my delica though. It takes wicked edge and sharpens pretty easily. Its also good for corrosian resistance which is a must because the knife would most like be carried down inside the pocket, and if it gets wet it can't dry.
It ought to have liners just to go along with the normal look of a slipjoint. They could be made of titanium though to keep it light weight and to avoid corrosian.
I'm not sure on handle material. Theres to many things to choose from.

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Fix it right the first time, use Baling Wire !
 
If Spyderco makes a slip joint folder, I want to make two recommendations: either a Calypso style blade or a slip joint version of the Dyad Jr. Blade steel should be ATS-55 or VG-10, those are easy to sharpen steels that don't seem to be too expensive.
 
I'm not so much for spyderco slip joints.
When I read first post I thought - why ? as spyderco already has dyad which fills the need for multi bladed knife.
Then I noticed the need for non locking knife to make it street legal. It is the only reason that I can accept for non locking spyderco.

To make it look more traditional:
-wood or stag scales and maybe bolsters.
-Change the serrated balde to some other (this change would make it more airport friendly)
-no clip in style of dyad ltwt
 
My choice of blade steel would be 52100. vg-10 or ats-34, 154cm works for me if 52100 not available. Flat ground. Pointy warncliffe or clip point. A variety of colors in th scales, micarta,G-10, something that won't break if it falls on the floor, and AMBIDEXTROUS.

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The thorn stands to defend the Rose, yet it is peaceful and does not seek conflict
 
My choice of blade steel would be 52100. vg-10 or ats-34, 154cm works for me if 52100 not available. Flat ground. Pointy warncliffe or clip point. A variety of colors in th scales, micarta,G-10, something that won't break if it falls on the floor, and AMBIDEXTROUS.Finally, PLEASE, NO SERRATIONS.

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The thorn stands to defend the Rose, yet it is peaceful and does not seek conflict
 
Pleasepleaseplease reinvent the C27, the most horn of the Horns, bigger!
Did I say please?
 
FWIW, I'd have no interest whatsoever in a slip joint.

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Cheers,

--+Brian+--

He who finishes with the most toys wins.
 
Personally, I like the idea. Some people don't go for Spyderco because of the look and the fact that they lock, my grandfather being one of them.

Perhaps there should be two models, a regular version with micarta handles and a limited production high end model with genuine stag or bone scales. Bolsters would be nice on both and necessary on the high end. I'd take VG-10 in a satin finish for the blade. Also we should try to integrate the hole into the blade like on a native or goddard. I don't think most would want the hole to be as noticeable as say on the delica or endura. It should be noticable, but not too much.

The biggest potential problem I see is with opening. Is it practical to use the hole one-handed to open against backspring pressure? I'd think this would be a two handed afair, though it is better than a nail nick.

Forgot a few things the first time. A nice slim clip point would be ideal for style reasons and NO clip or serrations. This would be a real departure for Spyderco, but well appreciated by many.

[This message has been edited by leroys_45 (edited 03-21-2000).]
 
I would also love to see a stockman made by Spyderco. Avg-10 bladedtraditional folder by Spyderco would be very nice. I don't know how you could put the Spyderco touches, Hole, to a slim ttraditional style but it is sure a interesting idea.
I would say it would have to have at least a clip point, and sheeps foot blade.Oh ya, and plain edge, flat grind to keep the older look.
 
I don't know about a Spyderco slip joint. Sounds like a good idea at first, but...no telling.


Blades
 
I don't think the hole is a good idea if the knife has a normal backspring. Maybe you could use a side ball and detent like you use to keep liner locks closed. You will need a blade hold-open as strong as any standard slip joint and yet be easy to open. I'm sure you can do it, but at what cost? I think you will sacrifice more customers because of the hole than you could gain with a more orthodox, holeless design.
 
Please consider the multiblade configuration. I love stockman style. But could do just fine without the spay blade.
 
A larger C27 in STAG PLEASE!

View


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"Will work 4 Knives!"
Homepage: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=254126
 
<a href="http://www.canit.se/%7Egriffon/knives/tmpimg/slipjoint-hole.jpg"><img src="http://www.canit.se/%7Egriffon/knives/tmpimg/_slipjoint-hole.jpg" align=right></a>I like that there aren't any point 5 and 6, like in lanyard hole and pocket clip required. Or for that matter a point 7 as in serrations must be an option.

I'd like a pretty dropped point, the rest of the design can make it clear you aren't supposed to jab the point into something, as then the point will engage at a smaller angle which makes some tasks easier.

The handle should be rather smooth, possibly micarta. I have no strong opinions on steel type, grind should be flattish. For ease of opening, the hole shouldn't be very close to the pivot.



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Urban Fredriksson
www.canit.se/%7Egriffon/
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"Smooth and serrated blades cut in two entirely different fashions."
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