Have you ever accidentally overextended a lockbar?

I've repaired four that people did that to. All had the pocket clips removed and were carried deep in the pocket with change and other things like pen knives. All four had locks that stuck really bad binding in the engagement interface. The lock required a great deal of ummmph to free it. One time I guess after heavy use probably they pushed with too much momentum. Its rare but it does happen, makers have seen it, I've seen it, fixed it and though rare it is a possibility and known enough among makers that several of us have come up with various ways to provide lock stops to prevent it in use. If you will note most frame locks are built such that the clip can act as a block for this to safe guard it from happening. The thinner the lock cut the easier it is to manipulate the lock and if you combine that with a binding lock and no block to aid or slow down that momentum once you free the lock well, there you go. Asked and answered.

STR
 
STR said:
I've repaired four that people did that to. All had the pocket clips removed and were carried deep in the pocket with change and other things like pen knives. All four had locks that stuck really bad binding in the engagement interface. The lock required a great deal of ummmph to free it. One time I guess after heavy use probably they pushed with too much momentum. Its rare but it does happen, makers have seen it, I've seen it, fixed it and though rare it is a possibility and known enough among makers that several of us have come up with various ways to provide lock stops to prevent it in use. If you will note most frame locks are built such that the clip can act as a block for this to safe guard it from happening. The thinner the lock cut the easier it is to manipulate the lock and if you combine that with a binding lock and no block to aid or slow down that momentum once you free the lock well, there you go. Asked and answered.

STR
Click to expand...

I never took into account the fact that it could stick so badly, you could build up the momentum to break it. That is a very good point and thank you for sharing STR
 
I agree. STR makes a good point. On the other hand, if a lock is sticking so badly that freeing it threatens to bend the lockbar, shouldn't the knife be sent in for repairs before attempting to unlock it? I mean, why run the risk of damaging the knife any further? If the lock is stuck that tightly, it's obviously in need of repair. And a lockbar stabilizer sure isn't going to fix it.

Again, I think the kinds of incidents STR described occur very infrequently. On the other hand, incorporating a stabilizer doesn't seem like it's that big deal. So I guess if lockbar overextension happens at all, it might be worth adding a stabilizer . . . especially from a manufacturer's perspective and more so if the manufacturer can pass the cost of adding it onto the consumer. But I wouldn't even put a lockback stabilizer on my list of considerations when purchasing a framelock. If it's there, fine. If it's not there, fine.
 
Last edited:
bld522 said:
I agree. STR makes a good point. On the other hand, if a lock is sticking so badly that freeing it threatens to bend the lockbar, shouldn't the knife be sent in for repairs before attempting to free the lock? I mean, any knife whose lock is stuck that tightly is obviously in need of repair. And a lockbar stabilizer sure isn't going to fix it.
Click to expand...

That is one opinion. Many like the lock to stick because they trust it more that way feeling if they can't get it closed without struggle then it is unlikely to close accidentally but yeah its probably true it was needing repaired. Most just scribble a bit with a sharpie marker and keep it letting it break in over time. I've ordered four brand spankin' new Emerson CQC12 models in my life time. One was a custom. All four had locks that stuck and binded so terribly when new and for the first few weeks to a month after that my thumb was literally worn out and sore from these knives! Then after time and use they stop doing sticking. Just one day you notice its not doing that anymore. Just goes away. Most all of these were traveling all the way across the blade face and banging the opposite side G10 in no time flat once the sticking stopped. It is likely this would be the case if it were abraided to make it wear faster by a factory repair meaning the lock wears out sooner rather than later. So many feel with this type of lock that since it begins self destruction from self correction for wear from day one forward that there is no reason or desire to prematurely wear away material. I have had numerous locks sent to me over the years for work and can't count how many times people told me don't adjust the lock I like it sticking like that. Anyway, the point is this lock is designed to self adjust itself for wear. Its best to let that take place as there is no replacing natural wear. Once the lock travels all the way across it can stay there for years. I used to get EKI 12 mailed to me every year for resharpen and going over and the standing order was don't touch or adjust the lock. It had very slight play, but never wore past that and it stayed that way never really changing. I could have taken the play out of it easy enough but it just goes to show you that while I could not live with that slight play and would have to fix it someone else may not find it annoying and actually like it so the opinion of it needing repaired is just that really. Its just one opinion. Another may not see it that way. Just because the lock sticks does not mean that it needs repaired at all. That is up to each individual. The lock stabilizer is for preventing hyper extension of the lock but also to keep the lock from moving up and down so it has a double function. In this regard it does prevent the lock from binding by the hand grabbing in a white knuckle situation which could pull the lock down pinching it on the long cut for the lock that makes it the long bar it is with leverage as a factor. Hope you follow that.
 
I see your point and yes, it makes sense to me. Thanks for taking the time to explain it. :)
 
egally08 said:
Oh Ken come on, what do you take me for? I was joking of course lol ;)
Click to expand...

Sorry, I thought you may have been joking, but sometimes its hard for me to tell in the General Forum,lol.

bld522 said:
On the other hand, if a lock is sticking so badly that freeing it threatens to bend the lockbar, shouldn't the knife be sent in for repairs before attempting to unlock it?
Click to expand...

Yes it should.
I've only had to send one back for this reason(a Sebenza, and it was only slightly sticky), and it was 10 years old. It came back perfect. The only framelocks I have anymore are Sebenza's.
 
hardheart said:
Would you mind trying again with the clip removed?
Click to expand...

Sure thing if you can give me a legitimate reason. The pocket clip on that sebenza applies zero pressure to the lock bar. If you can see, I have grip tape under it because it is so worn. With the knife closed, I can bend the pocket clip easily one inch out from the frame. Would you care to tell me how else it could make a difference? I mean no disrespect, I might be missing something, and i would like to know the reason you think it would make a difference.
 
it looked like it was applying pressure to the flexed lockbar, as the clip is flexing away from the centerline of the handle along with the lockbar. I thought perhaps this was part of the reason why CRK placed it there instead of laying above the lockbar on the non-moving section of the frame.
 
Thanks for doing the second test.

STR had also mentioned about the clips being removed for the deep pocket carry, forgot to mention that as another reason my interest was piqued.
 
Ya no problem, I do understand your thinking, and it is possibly. Like I said this clip was worn. Also, I am sure if I wanted to spring the lock bar I could, but I think, at least on the sebenza, or similar quality knives it would be hard to do it unintentionally.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top