Haveing problems with my spyderco tenacious

spidyman said:
WD-40 was designed as an anti icing agent and a cleaner (NASA) NOT as a lubircant, and it WILL evaporate in short order leaving a sticky/gum varnish. Instead use any quality gun oil as they are designed for the close tollerances and engineered not to evaporate or turn to a gum or varnish.
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Actually it was developed to displace water. :rolleyes:

Also, it is a lubricant.

The long term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture. This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus get into crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then itself diffuses away.

These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; lubricating and loosening joints and hinges, removing dirt and residue, extricating stuck screws and bolts, and preventing rust are common usages.
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I don't know what the big fuss is. It's a fine cleaner too. Spray it in, open and close the knife a bit, use some compressed air to blow it out or let it dry. It takes all the dirt and grime with it leaving you with a clean pivot. If you (like me) don't prefer oiling pivots, a clean one is the next best thing.
 
Tef-Lube has never failed me. Highly recommended and smells mmm-mmm good!


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Militec is my first choice. I figure if a weapons lubricant works well on my firearms in harsh conditions it will suffice for my pocket knives.

If you can't readily get a good quality weapon specific lubricant Mobil-1 works surprisingly well. I'm not a fan of Rem-Oil. In my experience it tends to gum up.

Just my two cents.
SDS
 
I use rem oil on all of my knives and guns.

It's readily available in aerosol and non-aerosol.
 
Josh K said:
Actually it was developed to displace water. :rolleyes:

Also, it is a lubricant.



I don't know what the big fuss is. It's a fine cleaner too. Spray it in, open and close the knife a bit, use some compressed air to blow it out or let it dry. It takes all the dirt and grime with it leaving you with a clean pivot. If you (like me) don't prefer oiling pivots, a clean one is the next best thing.
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I think the deal is that the OP is looking for something that will properly lubricate their knife, and there are better lubricants available that don't attract dirt, or have solvents in them that will potentially damage the finish of the knife handles.
 
enderwiggin said:
I think the deal is that the OP is looking for something that will properly lubricate their knife, and there are better lubricants available that don't attract dirt, or have solvents in them that will potentially damage the finish of the knife handles.
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My understanding was that G-10 is highly resistant to most chemicals, perhaps I was wrong.

The dirt and grim will be there with or without the oil. I prefer Tuf Glide or Sentry's High Slip Grease when I choose to lubricate my knives, but WD-40 is a great cleaning and works as a lube in a pinch.
 
I am always using my knife to cut up fruit or vegetables. At work I use it to eat lunch with a lot so I always use mineral oil on the blade and pivot. I'm sure there are better high tech lubricants but that has always worked well for me.

I'm not a huge fan of WD-40 on knives. I don't know if it's a lubricant or not but I always end up with a gummy mess in the pivot area from it collecting grime. Plus, it tastes really bad on PB&J. :D
 
Put me in the No to WD-40 camp. While it might act as a lubricant at first, it will gum up your knife.

If you intend on using it to prepare food, mineral oil will work fine. If not, as already mentioned and good quality light oil, light synthetic oil or dry lube will work fine.

Just remember, the tolerances of modern knives are tight. You will have to clean it from time to time, depending on the use and amount pocket lint you generate. A little preventative maintenance goes a long way.
 
i use militec but have recently tried using some ball bearing bike greese and it has worked wonders so far:)
 
Am I the only one who takes apart gritty-sounding knives? Tenacious has torx screws doesn't it? I routinely strip down gritty-mucked up knives and clean/ lube (Militec) everything. Lots of times the gunk is stuck by the pivot or wedged in the washers and needs to be wiped off. Even if this possibly voids the waranty, I'm not overly concerned with $40 work knife.
 
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vmlew said:
Am I the only one who takes apart gritty-sounding knives? Tenacious has torx screws doesn't it? I routinely strip down gritty-mucked up knives and clean/ lube (Militec) everything. Lots of times the gunk is stuck by the pivot or wedged in the washers and needs to be wiped off. Even if this possibly voids the waranty, I'm not overly concerned with $40 work knife.
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It doesn't void the warranty to take apart a Spyderco knife. ;)
 
Go to your local mart, walk back to the hardware or sporting goods section and ask the clerk for a bottle (NOT spray can) of lubricating oil. Whatever he/she hands you will do a fine job of lubricating your knife.

The oldest folding knife I own (passed down for generations) had its joints oiled by 3 in 1 since before I was born. It has since graduated to BreakFree and hasn't seemed to mind the change.

Seriously, it needs some oil. Almost any kind will do. If you don't want to splurge for a bottle of gun/machine oil then just pull the dipstick from your car and let it drip into the joint.
 
tirod3 said:
The pivot of a knife requires lubricant. WD40 isn't.

I don't know of one commercial lock maker who recommends it - It's notorious for jamming up cylinder pins in the core. The DOD universally bans it as a weapons lubricant, although new troops try it all the time.

On cars, WD40 can be used to blow out condensation inside a distributor cap. Just because the manufacturer says it can be used on thousands of items doesn't mean the makers of those items recommend it. Professional technicians avoid the stuff.

A good light gun oil is far superior as a knife pivot lube. I've never read a maintenance insert for the knife I bought that suggests WD40 - and I doubt I ever will.
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http://www.leatherman.com/owners/maintenance.aspx
After cleaning, dry your Leatherman and apply a light machine oil or a water-displacing product (WD-40®) to force out moisture trapped in the joints. This also helps protect the tool from further corrosion and sticking.

You have now :D
 
One.

It was bound to happen, and it follows that a multitool maker would be it. Still, there's always something new.

As for alternate uses, we spray down our counter tops at work (auto parts store.) It's a good solvent, leaves a nice sheen, dries quickly, and smells like it's 'sposed to.

In most other regards, it's considered snake oil for all the claims the makers constantly propose. Auto forums will give you a number of other things to use specifically designed for each application.

I use Militec, which is probably no worse than used motor oil. Any of us who cut fruits, cheese, and other food stuffs with our blades should think about food safety when choosing lubricants. I don't see many of our suggestions passing that bar.
 
WD-40 is not a lubericant and should not be used to lubricate. I personally use Ballistol. Also Ballistol is made up of all natural products and is harmless to consume so you may use it on a knife that you will eat with!

~Zach
 
fp125duncan said:
NOT WD40. please. That could be the worst thing you could do for your knife. WD40 is not really a lubricant. its water-based, so it will evaporate and then may cause it to rust.
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Lol, what basis do you have for that? Please show me.
 
Unscrew the pin that holds the knife in, take out the blade and washers, and clean then off. Take a tiny bit of oil (too much will attract more gunk, just like WD-40 will) and lightly coat the washers on either side, then put them and the blade back in. Should be nice and smooth after that.
 
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