Having trouble sharpening my GEC

[sitflyer]

What knives would be good to practice with?

If you don't have an Opinel, maybe a good time to give one a try?

 

[Eli Chaps]

Thank you for the tips. No more diamonds for my GEC.

I have a hard Arkansas stone and another double sided stone of unknown origin with what I think is fine and coarse surfaces.

I also have a Spyderco sharpmaker, and the sharpening stones can be laid flat on the plastic base for unguided sharpening. According to Spyderco the stones are high alumina ceramic stones. One pair is medium grit and the other is fine. Would this be useful for sharpening 1095, or should I stick with the Arkansas stone?

I've ordered a jewelers loupe.

What knives would be good to practice with?

It really depends on what the individual knife needs. If you've been running on a stone and not getting a good edge, the bevel may need to be reset and that is course stone territory. Get an edge on a course stone, with proper deburring it should shave arm hair, even if a little ragged. Then you can go up to another finer stone if you wish.

Trying to reset the bevel on a hard Arkansas will simply take too long. In fact for softer steels, I typically prefer a soft Arkansas and rarely move up.

Pairing knives are good to practice with.

 

[Cutfinger]

I've been knifing and sharpening for a long time. After reading this thread, I made a point of lightening up on the pressure, when sharpening. (Something I sometimes feel like I'm in too much of a hurry for) Yep, that's the ticket. Say hello to push cutting calouses.

 

[cudgee]

Thank you for the tips. No more diamonds for my GEC.

I have a hard Arkansas stone and another double sided stone of unknown origin with what I think is fine and coarse surfaces.

I also have a Spyderco sharpmaker, and the sharpening stones can be laid flat on the plastic base for unguided sharpening. According to Spyderco the stones are high alumina ceramic stones. One pair is medium grit and the other is fine. Would this be useful for sharpening 1095, or should I stick with the Arkansas stone?

I've ordered a jewelers loupe.

What knives would be good to practice with?

I have both a lansky ceramic rod and idahone ceramic rod set, you will have no problems sharpening 1095 with your Spyderco. Just take your time and be patient, and when you are satisfied with the edge on each grit, finish with some really light strokes, this will remove any burr. EG., when you have achieved the edge you are happy with on the medium grit, finish with some light strokes, then do the same process on the fine grit. But make sure you do not let the blade become dull, it makes it easier if you keep a keen edge. There are a stack of good Youtube videos on how to use these systems, have a look at a few, you will pick up some good tips, and there is an instruction video on the Idahone site of how to use there ceramic rod system, it may be useful for you. You will be surprised at what you see with your jewelers loupe, it just lets you see the progression you are making as you get your edge sharper, and you will learn a lot about burrs, what they look like, and feel like. As advised by other members, get a couple of cheap knives to practice on, but the beauty of your Spyderco system is it takes getting the angle correct every time out of your hands. Just remember, keep it simple and take your time, you will be fine. Just ask any question you have here on the forum, everyone is only to willing to help. You have a good week, and take care.

 

[btb01]

Personally, I think diamond works fine for sharpening 1095. I use DMT Dia-Sharp continuous surface diamond plates in Fine and Extra Fine.

With a new knife, I’ll start with the Fine plate to set the bevel the way I like it. That doesn’t take too long, maybe 20-25 passes total on each side, with a fairly light touch. Then I’ll finish with the Extra Fine. After that, I mostly just use the EF for resharpening/touch-ups.

 

[Lansky1]

After using mostly modern folders for a while I wanted to use some traditional knives. Some of them were put away a little dull a while ago, others had a good edge and a leather strop made them even better.

Using diamond stones freehand I really struggled getting an acceptable edge on them. So I tried some sandpaper on a flat surface, and then on a mouse pad for a convex edge. It was rather frustrating removing material without ending up with a decent edge.

Is there any trick to sharpening thin 1095 blades that I've forgotten? Getting frustrated probably didn't help my sharpening skills.

I was just like you ... got so tired of not being able to get a really good edge, I tried a 3 stone Lansky set that comes with the mounting jig & that was all she wrote - I was astounded at how good an edge I could get compared to freehanding. For $30, you'll get better than factory edge - key is to buy the $10 mounting base - so much more stable and safer. Eventually, you'll want the 5 stone diamond set if you get the scary sharp bug. If you're ok with a usable edge, freehand works just fine for most people ... if you want to get scary sharp, you'll need to use modern methods to hold the sharpening angle exact.

 

[dsutton24]

Maybe I missed it, but do you have trouble sharpening anything else? I don't ask this to be insulting. Some people just struggle with knife sharpening, my dad was one of them There's nothing about a GEC blade that should make it hard to sharpen.

As countless others have said, the most common problems are too much pressure, being in too much of a hurry, not holding a consistent angle, or using the wrong tools.

The various ceramic rod systems work well on a wide variety of steels, and most of them have some kind of built-in angle to them. I generally just use an Arkansas stone for everyday sharpening. If I need to reestablish an angle on something that's badly worn or damaged I drag out the Lansky, then finish on my usual stone.

 

[ddallam]

Some people just want a consistent share edge quickly without really thinking about it. Understandable. Others of us enjoy being patient, and mastering the art. For me it's a zen thing. I try to use my knife as often as I can, just for the joy of the resharpening, slowly and carefully. Re-profiling is a pain, but that's just because it's even slower and slightly less satisfying, hence a diamond plate to grind it quick. Many right answers here. Love the discussion, and learning how others do it. The biggest takeaway though is to use light pressure, whatever method you use.

 

[cudgee]

Many right answers here. Love the discussion, and learning how others do it. The biggest takeaway though is to use light pressure, whatever method you use.

Could not have said it better. You have a good week.

 

[sitflyer]

Personally, I think diamond works fine for sharpening 1095. I use DMT Dia-Sharp continuous surface diamond plates in Fine and Extra Fine.

With a new knife, I’ll start with the Fine plate to set the bevel the way I like it. That doesn’t take too long, maybe 20-25 passes total on each side, with a fairly light touch. Then I’ll finish with the Extra Fine. After that, I mostly just use the EF for resharpening/touch-ups.

I'm of the same thought, I have switched over to only using diamond plates, DMT blue and red and one fine Buck diamond plate. I can take a dull 1095 blade and make it screaming sharp in minutes with them and a strop, if I encounter a stubborn wire edge, a few aggressive cross cuts into some soft pine will usually do the trick to remove it, then a few light strokes to finish the edge is all that is required. My favorite and most used plate is a DMT blue which was used and abused as a demo for quite a few years, it doesn't have the bite of a less used plate, but it still shines for giving an excellent edge on 1095 and my kitchen cutlery of various origins.

 

[Eli Chaps]

...

If you're ok with a usable edge, freehand works just fine for most people ... if you want to get scary sharp, you'll need to use modern methods to hold the sharpening angle exact.

With all due respect, this is simply and quantifiably untrue. Also, the Lansky system is far from precise.

 

[Bigfattyt]

Totally missed that sogflash was using a diamond plate. 1095 is way too soft for diamonds! I wouldn’t touch 1095 with a diamond plate coarser than 1200 and even then with no pressure at all. Buy a cheap 1095 knife on eBay and practice.

I use diamond stones on my 1095 all the time.

Just less strokes, and light touch. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

No high grit diamond stones here. Just course and fine. Followed up by a bit of Spyderco medium and fine rods.

Some times I leave the fine diamond edge and, sometimes wirh a few strokes on the strop.

Depends on how I'm feeling.

 

[sogflash]

Maybe I missed it, but do you have trouble sharpening anything else? I don't ask this to be insulting. Some people just struggle with knife sharpening, my dad was one of them There's nothing about a GEC blade that should make it hard to sharpen.

As countless others have said, the most common problems are too much pressure, being in too much of a hurry, not holding a consistent angle, or using the wrong tools.

The various ceramic rod systems work well on a wide variety of steels, and most of them have some kind of built-in angle to them. I generally just use an Arkansas stone for everyday sharpening. If I need to reestablish an angle on something that's badly worn or damaged I drag out the Lansky, then finish on my usual stone.

I've been mostly satisfied with my sharpening skills on my modern knives (and tradition knives in the past).

Part of the problem might have been that I was in a hurry, and got frustrated when I didn't get the desired sharpness. Maybe I shouldn't be sharpening when I've got other things on my mind.

 

[Lansky1]

With all due respect, this is simply and quantifiably untrue. Also, the Lansky system is far from precise.

I understand we all look at it differently. As an engineer - I work in tolerances. For the Lansky jig - the play between the rod and the opening in the jig that it passes through is less than one degree. Are you saying ANYONE sharpening freehand can hold a 1 degree tolerance ?. Respectfully, this is acutely quantifiable and I have disproven your statement. Granted, those that have used it learn that you have to mount the knife in the jig solidly and use light to moderate pressure on the sharpening strokes - it's a feel that needs to be developed to get the best possible edge - even a beginner can get a great edge though with the Lansky. Hey, it's all good - we knife guys are a "set in our ways" kind of lot ... I'm not being argumentative, just correcting a point that may mislead others - its just silly to think freehanding can product a better edge than can be attained with a jig that mechanically holds an angle...

 

[Eli Chaps]

I understand we all look at it differently. As an engineer - I work in tolerances. For the Lansky jig - the play between the rod and the opening in the jig that it passes through is less than one degree. Are you saying ANYONE sharpening freehand can hold a 1 degree tolerance ?. Respectfully, this is acutely quantifiable and I have disproven your statement. Granted, those that have used it learn that you have to mount the knife in the jig solidly and use light to moderate pressure on the sharpening strokes - it's a feel that needs to be developed to get the best possible edge - even a beginner can get a great edge with the Lansky. Hey, it's all good - I'm not being argumentative, just correcting a point that may mislead others - its just silly to think freehanding can product a better edge than can be attained with a jig that mechanically holds an angle...

I'm also an engineer and I too work in tolerances. I have spec requirements in the parts per trillion range.

I'll stick to freehand sharpening. I have a KME which is much tighter and controlled than the Lansky and it has it's place at times but my freehand edges are also excellent.

To each their own. My objection to your statement was the implication that one cannot obtain extreme edges freehanding. They can. But I am absolutely not against a person using rigs.

 

[22-rimfire]

I understand we all look at it differently. As an engineer - I work in tolerances. For the Lansky jig - the play between the rod and the opening in the jig that it passes through is less than one degree. Are you saying ANYONE sharpening freehand can hold a 1 degree tolerance ?. Respectfully, this is acutely quantifiable and I have disproven your statement. Granted, those that have used it learn that you have to mount the knife in the jig solidly and use light to moderate pressure on the sharpening strokes - it's a feel that needs to be developed to get the best possible edge - even a beginner can get a great edge though with the Lansky. Hey, it's all good - we knife guys are a "set in our ways" kind of lot ... I'm not being argumentative, just correcting a point that may mislead others - its just silly to think freehanding can product a better edge than can be attained with a jig that mechanically holds an angle...

I tend to agree with you about the 1 degree variance freehand. I usually freehand. I don't demand a hair popping edge for the most part. I know a lot of people seek that kind of edge, but I don't routinely.

 

[Bigfattyt]

I tend to agree with you about the 1 degree variance freehand. I usually freehand. I don't demand a hair popping edge for the most part. I know a lot of people seek that kind of edge, but I don't routinely.

If an edge wont pop hair in hoth directions i spend a few more minutes on the ceramic.

I know I can't maintain an exact angle every time.

Occasionally I reset the bevel if I feel im getting at too steep of an angle.

I have a lansky. Ive only used it once or twice in the past 12 years or so (really screwed up a plunge line on a cusrom knife in 3v, while being inattentive and watching a movie while sharpening with the Lansky! After maintaining the knife by hand wirh Spyderco rods for nearly a year!! Reminded me why I don't 7se it much any more!!)

I've spent the past 10 years sharpeninf by hand (convex, sandpaper on mouse pad, hand held diamond stones and occasionally using my grinder when I want to speed things up).


Here is an edge done by hand sharpening. From dismond stone, to ceramic stick and then home made strop with aluminum oxide. (Home made strop made from a broken belt, aluminim oxide from harbor freight cheap cheap cheap polish compound.

Shaved many curls on wife's hair, free hanging.

If you look closely between the knives, you can see the hair strand.

 

[ddallam]

I think that someone who cares about "tolerances" may find true joy in knowing that their knife is precisely +/- 1% to some pre-determined angle across its length. I would suggest that a Lanky is actually creating a consistent BUT VARIABLE angle across the length of the edge, depending upon the configuration of the edge (farther from post equals softer angle, and only an equal angle for consistent radius of motion).

Nothing suggests that a "sharpening system" knife is any sharper than a hand sharpened one. One might even argue that the "precise ideal" bevel angle (and even the level of tooth/mirror) might actually vary from point to tip to edge to heel. Maybe as Lansky provides, or maybe even the reverse. Who knows or cares? I'll leave it to a tolerance engineer to answer that one. All I know is that my knives are "scary sharp" for what I use them for, whatever that unmeasured angle and tolerance happens to be.

 

[cudgee]

Part of the problem might have been that I was in a hurry, and got frustrated when I didn't get the desired sharpness. Maybe I shouldn't be sharpening when I've got other things on my mind.